ok cool…but im probably going to have to get four of them from you…we’ve talked about this before over email, you just don’t recognize the name…I need four of the arc-eyes with just white leds…
Ok you’ll have to remind me via email… one of the reasons why i ask for notes in the paypal payment 
I’m almost out of leo boards so I’ll be making a second run of boards. I’ll be making some changes for the new version.
Some changes I plan to make:
-adding a few more spots to wire any ground wires on the board.
-making the trigger hack easier by having the 10k resistor on the leo board.
-another set of button contact holes for adding wii.
I can’t say how long it will be until I have the new batch made.
Nice… i’m excited for this!
hey gummowned how is the wireless xbox 360 powered. I am sure it through your leo board. I know regular usb cables wont work because they are 5v and the xbox controller is 3.3v. Is there a way to connect a regular usb cable to the controller using resistors or something i just ask because i have my controller wired to the battery and i just want to use a regular usb cabler rather than the play and charge kit. Any help is very much appreciated. Thanks
The wireless 360 board is powered by the 3.7 lithium ion battery that the sixaxis is using. The battery is hooked up to the switch so that only one of the controllers is able to be turned on at a time.
It is possible to power the wireless 360 controller through usb, but you’ll have to lower the voltage from 5v from the usb to ~3.3v using a voltage regulator.
If I already have an Xbox 360 wireless joystick, how hard would it be to adapt this up and add Sixaxis dual mod? I used barrier strips on the stick so I assume it wouldn’t be too bad…
Wouldn’t be too hard. The wires that are going from the buttons/joystick would go to the leo board. Another set of wires from the leo board would go to the barrier strips. You’ll also have to install a 3pdt (4pdt is fine) switch for the usb cord and battery.
Anybody know what size security torx bit is used for the 360 controller? I just got the controller for the next project but forgot about those silly bolts…
T8 I believe
I just use small flat head screwdrivers to unscrew them. Either it will fit in the grooves of the screw and I’ll be able to unscrew it or it will break that middle security pin and then I can fit the normal sized bit (or use a flat head screwdriver that’s a lil bigger than the previous one used).
But of course using the correct sized security torx bit would be optimal.
I got a torx security screw driver on ebay for $5. It was labeled specifically for xbox 360
The last time I did it I chewed up one of my small screwdrivers, which doesn’t seem to do the job anymore. I wrestled with it to get the top 2 out, but I don’t think I want to try it with the others recessed in the plastic.
thats when you bust out the dremel.
That was my next option. I was hoping to avoid that, but a few moments with a cutoff wheel would do the trick
Gummowned,
I just now read this thread first post to last, and I’m thinkin I’ll probably end up getting a Leo board from you for my upcoming stick (you posted on my thread regarding hdmi/d-sub switches, if you remember).
I’ve got one question though… Earlier in the thread you mentioned that the stick would have to be plugged in to allow for auto syncing (and thus safe tournament use) in order to be powered on. However, in The-Red-Comet’s video he appears to be turning on both the MS pcb and the sixaxis pcb without the stick plugged into either console.
So with the Leo does the stick need to be plugged in or not to power on? Would Comet have just wired his home/guide buttons directly to the pad pcbs to get around that?
P.S. I’m incredibly impressed with how helpful you’ve been to everyone throughout this thread. People like you make SRK for me.
Oh, and the board itself doesn’t look too shabby either :pleased:
The stick doesn’t need to be plugged in to turn on the console. Once they are synced, they act just as a regular wireless controller would.
As for the syncing, I know you can plug the stick into the PS3 and sync it, but I don’t think the same applies for the Xbox. I think you still need to press the sync button on the stick and the 360 console. Since I had the controller synced to the console before I took the PCB out, I didn’t have that issue. Anyone else more 360 savvy could probably correct me if I’m wrong.
So this is not the case with the final product?
When I switch my xbox 360 controllers between systems I usually synch the same way as with the ps3’s. just plug it in… 360 you need the play and chage kit though…
Also just lurked across this thread the leo looks pretty good… might have to get one… wish it had screw down’s though like the axis adapters… and not because I can’t or wont solder… just cuz its easy
You can pretty much forget about what I have said in earlier posts in this thread. That was when I was messing around with trying to get a switchless setup like the use of the imp board.
Pretty much now its just have the leo board connected to the sixaxis, have the 360 board and the sticks buttons wired to the leo board. Then hook the battery and the usb from both controllers to a switch. You’ll be able to sync both the ps3 and 360 to their systems through the usb cord (don’t need the play and charge cable to do this). Once they are synced to the system you can just hit the home/guide button to turn on the stick and it will connect to the system.
I’m working on a new version as I’m almost out of the first batch. You might be interested in the new version…