I received the rest of the parts. I added ordering info and final pricing on the first post.
TC stands for Trigger Common. It wires to the MS wireless controller board. Its the top pin of the trigger pot. It doesn’t matter if you wire it to the one for the left trigger or right trigger.
I just posted the guide to wire up a MS wireless controller with a sixaxis board. Link is in the first post. It covers how to wire up the TC wire.
There is also a updated switch diagram in that guide. It uses a 3PDT switch (or a DPDT and SPDT side by side). It should be the easiest switch setup.
Ok is that ground the only ground that we take out of the 360 controller to the PS3? Also could you clear some things up for me please,
a. battery - from the 360 goes to battery - on the ps3 and thats it, correct?
b. for the sixaxis battery I cut the plug at the end and wire the bat + to the switch. Where does the bat - from the battery go? to the same solder spot the 360 bat - went to on the sixaxis?
Thanks
The battery - and the ground are the same. So you can either use the USB ground pin on the 360 controller or the battery - spot. You just need to make sure that the ground for the 360 controller, sixaxis, lithium ion battery, buttons, and joystick all connect. Note that the spot labeled ground on the Leo board isn’t a ground for that board. Its just there so if you want, you can wire up the grounds of the other boards to one spot to make it easier to remember which board’s grounds are together.
Don’t cut the plug on the sixaxis battery! The connectors on the 360 rumble motors fit the sixaxis battery so reuse those. Desolder them from the 360 controller and wire up the bat+ to the switch and the bat- to the ground of any of the other boards. This way if you need to swap out the cell, you don’t need to do any soldering.
I think I understand what you’re saying, but just to be sure:
For the sixaxis, do we tap the battery + and - from the battery connector on the pcb or do we take it from the usb spot on the pcb (or both)? I get where the 360 pcb should be soldered (everywhere!) but I only know for sure on the d+ and d- lines on the sixaxis board.
Sorry for the nOObness of the next question, but from the looks of it we’ll have to cut and wire in a usb cable, since we’re not plugging it in to the sixaxis board, correct? If so, are the lines in the usb cable labeled or color coordinated? I’ve never had to cut one before, so please forgive me…
All the USB cables I’ve seen (And there could be exceptions) were color coded as follows:
Red: V+
Black: Ground
Green: Data+
White: Data-
EDIT: Found this:
Standard USB Pinout & Cable Color Code
Pin Wire Color Function
1 Red V BUS (+5V)
2 White D-
3 Green D+
4 Black Ground
Mini-USB Type-A Pinout & Cable Color Code
Pin Wire Color Function
1 Red V BUS (+5V)
2 White D-
3 Green D+
4 Joined to pin 5 ID
5 Black Ground
Mini-USB Type-B Pinout & Cable Color Code
Pin Wire Color Function
1 Red V BUS (+5V)
2 White D-
3 Green D+
4 Not connected (*) ID
5 Black Ground
Thanks! That clears up one thing for me.
After a bit more head scratching, since I have to cut the usb cable anyway, couldn’t I just plug the usb B plug into the sixaxis pcb, run the corresponding wires to the switches and the ground from either the battry - or the usb - to the rest of the ground wires? Or is there a reason the wires shoudl be soldered to the points on the board? For that matter, could the same be done with the 360 play and charge cable (although the solder points aren’t nearly as close on that board)?
Yes you can plug a usb B plug into the sixaxis pcb, cut the other end and run the wires to the switch. I just don’t like sacrificing mini usb cords. If you really wanted to, you could end up with not having to solder anything at all to the sixaxis board since you could have everything just plug into it.
Same can be done with the play and charge cable, but I rather not spend the $10 on the cable when I don’t have to.
Edit: Actually, don’t use the play and charge cable. If you do, you would end up having to put the 5v usb lines on the switch.
Remember, the 5v line and ground line from both 360 and ps3 usb should be connected together. It’s the D- and D+ that go to the switch. Also, the + terminal on the battery cell goes to the switch too. The - terminal on the battery cell goes to the other connected grounds.
When wiring the grounds of the boards and battery, think of it as like you are daisy chaining the buttons. Xbox ground connects to PS3’s ground which connects to the battery’s ground, which connects to the buttons ground which connects to the joysticks ground.
Thanks for the heads up. I’ve got a few mini usb cords around, and I had to sacrifice one anyway (I’m not using a neutrik) so I don’t mind too much. I may have the 360 board soldered if my buddy doesn’t have a spare play-n-charge cable.
Now the second has me confused. In one of your earlier posts, you were using 2 dpdt switches, one for the data lines and the other for the guide buttons and the battery lines (or is that the 5v lines from the boards).
visualize a 4PDT switch as this:
P1:[] [] []
P2:[] [] []
P3:[] [] []
P4:[] [] []
P = pole
[xbox d-] [d-] [ps3 d-]
[xbox d+][d+][ps3 d+]
[xbox battery +] [lithium ion +] [ps3 battery +]
[xbox guide signal] [stick’s guide button] [“hm” on Leo board (inner row)]
The data lines I understand. If I’m looking at the guide correctly, we don’t need to wire the guide buttons to a switch anymore (correct?). The grounds I also understand (all the grounds are connected together, be it buttons, joystick, battery, etc). It’s the + battery connection and 5v that’s got my head in a twist. Am I soldering the 5v from the usb cable, 360 usb connection and ps3 usb connection all together, then running the + terminal from both boards to the switch?
You are correct in that the guide button doesn’t need to be wired to the switch anymore.
You are also have it right about the 5v and +battery terminal. Solder the 5v from the usb cable, the 360 usb connection, and the ps3 usb connection all together. Run a wire from the + terminal from both boards and the battery cell to the switch.
If you end up using the play and charge cable for the 360 controller, you will have to have the 5v usb lines added to the switch too, instead of having them wired together.
Thank you so much for yoru patience! I had a feeling I was making this much harder than it needed to be. With that cleared up, I can now focus on wiring the LEDs up.
One last thing I wanted to make sure of: the ground of the leo board doesn’t necessarily need to be used, as long as all of the grounds for the boards, buttons, battery and joystick are connected together, correct? I may end up using a terminal strip for the ground wires, depending on how things look.
yep, the spot labeled ground on the leo board doesn’t connect to anything. It is just there if you wanted to connect all the grounds of everything to one spot.
Ladies and gents, I can confirm the Leo Board works as advertised :clapdos:. I slapped it in my TE that I had already wirelessed with an Axisdapter. Getting it in the TE was a tight fight so I had to cut the case a little bit. Also follow Gummowned advise of putting hot glue on the D-pad contacts of the 360 controller. The wire connecting up on the d-pad came off and brought the contact along with it, so I had to scrape a little bit further and barely managed to make a connection. Also make sure all the grounds are connected together, 1 of my grounds was not connected properly and the sixaxis would not work at all. I wired a 4PDT switch so I only have 1 switch. Here are some pics.
Completely stock looking (more than meets the eye 
):
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/the-red-comet/DSC06502.jpg
Inside with all the wires
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/the-red-comet/DSC06497.jpg
Back side where the battery is located
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/the-red-comet/DSC06498.jpg
all finished
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/the-red-comet/DSC06500.jpg
Switch is in the cable storage so that its out of view
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/the-red-comet/DSC06501.jpg
Whoa!!! Can get a video of that thing in action? Good job
@the-red-comet, good job! I’m glad it all worked out. Where did you end up getting the 4PDT toggle switch from?
Congrats!
Sure can i’ll get a video up tomorrow.
ebay, here’s the link to the seller i got mine from http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120506733047&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Thanks
Video is up
[media=youtube]GXUrndluCvc[/media]
Nice video. That’s a pretty clever idea to use the turbo leds to display which player you are and for which system.