I wish I had a stick to put this in…
I’m good on batteries. I have around 30 that are found in the sixaxis controller and a handfull of 2000mah cells that I freed out of laptop batteries.
any news?
Had a busy weekend in Philly for NEC.
I’ll spend this week putting the boards together and then work on writing up guides. I will pm everyone about payment info after I make all the boards.
I’ve got a case on the way sometime this week. I’ll look forward to your guide and pics
I apologize if my question is not in the right place but I was wondering if my xbox 360 TE could be modded to wireless at all? I am not looking for a dual mod just having the ability to play wired or wireless using the usb cable to charge. Thanks in advance.
It’s possible, although a bit expensive and labor-intensive. First of all, you would have to scrap the PCB in your TE, since there’s no easy way to add wireless functionality to it. Then you would need to take apart a wireless 360 controller and hack it to work in an arcade stick, and connect it to the buttons and joystick accordingly. Assuming that the PCB is not common ground, you would also need to mod your TE’s joystick so that the micro switch grounds are separated, as normally they are wired together for common ground. And finally for the charging cable, you could just chop off the end of it and connect it to the existing USB cable in the TE.
You won’t have any turbo functionality, you’ll have an extra TE PCB leftover, and there’s a lot of risk involved in the process of pad hacking. But if wireless is important to you, that’s how it could be done.
First of all, thanks for the response.
That sounds like a ton of trouble just to have wireless functionality. I noticed some of the PS3 TE’s had been modded for wireless and so I thought I would ask if it would be possible for the Xbox 360. Crazy…
Anyhow, Thanks again!
I tested the trigger hack part on the leo board for the wireless 360 controller’s triggers. It worked. Unfortunately, the trigger spots on the leo board were designed to be hooked up to the MS late version wireless controller. I didn’t take into account of some boards like the T6 that don’t have analog triggers. Not a problem though, you will just need to solder the trigger signals to another spot on the board. Just something I will make minor changes to in the next batch of boards made (if demand permits it).
I’ll be making the rest of the boards today and will send emails tonight.
I get mine for $60.00 shipped brand new from eBay.
I don’t see how this relates to this thread.
Maybe he’s saying he now has a case to put the board in. Who knows…
Anyways, with the trigger hack, we just have to wire the signals to the board without the need for an inverter? Since I haven’t finalized what I want my next stick to be, I plan on putting the board in a stick I’m making for a friend and using it for the ‘beta’. He’s going to give me the pad from his 360 Elite to hack. I may have it sent out to be hacked, as I’m not 100% confident on soldering that board. I don’t know if he wanted lights, but he’s getting them!
I’ll probably have a look at the wiring diagram you sent me a while back for having a switch to control if the lights are on all the time or only when pressed. Another alternative is to have them on, but go off when pressed. I can accomplish this if I use happ buttons and their switches (just run the led to the 3rd terminal, which will stay engaged until the button is pressed)
pm’s have been sent to people on the pre-order list. I will be working on dual mod guides. I should also have a simple guide to just the board up so that if I don’t have the dual mod guides up, you can still figure out how to wire up the leo board.
Please forgive me beta testers, for some of the boards might have one of the holes filled with solder. It shouldn’t be that much an issue, but I don’t you to be surprised. The contact pads for the diodes aren’t spaced far enough to easily solder the diodes so soldering them to the board takes a bit more effort. Since the diode pads are very close to the holes, sometimes I have gotten some solder in there on accident.
I doubt this really is that big of an issue, but if it is, I can sell the board in kit form and you can put it together yourself.
I plan to make changes to the first post to have the guides and pricing details an what not. I will be archiving the original guides since they are pretty much ignored anyway. Or maybe they were just hard to understand?
ill send payment by this weekend if that’s ok
thats fine.
Make sure to update the front page with:
“What is it?”
“What does it do?”
“Why do I want it?”
or similar, as from just reading the first post, all I’m seeing is circut boards and having no idea what this is. I know you’ve been working on it, and what it is, but, most people are inherently stupid and generally wouldn’t read the rest of the thread to figure it out :tup:
BTW I want one.
Ah yes, I will include that stuff. I’m still working on the first post. I just wanted to remove the old guides. I’m going to post up a pinout of the board today and other info.
updated the first post with intro and a picture with a simple pinout to wire up to a microsoft late version wireless controller. There is a second picture to show where to wire up the LT and RT buttons of a 360 controller that don’t have them as analog triggers (ie, fightpads and T6). I didn’t show how to wire up the guide buttons yet since it varies on the dual mod.
Gummowned will you help us with a little diagram for wiring up the 2 DPDT switches or 1 4PDT, sorry for the request but Im a bit electronics iliterate… but i can solder like a champ!!
Gummowned thank you for posting up the guide you will make dual-modding me T6 stick so much easier.
And now that I can even set it up to re-charge even more awesome.
Very very nice work thanks so much for the time you have invested.