yessir
Can’t wait for the pictures. Hope they sell well enough for you.
When I got home today I found my package had truly arrived. I went ahead and constructed a board to make sure my design was correct. I am proudly able to say that it works. I will be doing another Tekken 6 dual wireless mod again, but this time using the new Leo board this time around. I’ll have that done next week when I get the T6 stick this weekend.
Measurements of the board size: 2 inches by 1 and 5/16 inches
Picture time!!!
Super zoom in on the bare Leo pcb
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/gocontourgo/Project%20Leo/P1030116.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/gocontourgo/Project%20Leo/P1030117.jpg
The group of components.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/gocontourgo/Project%20Leo/P1030118.jpg
Full shot connected to the sixaxis. The blue wire is the ground wire.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/gocontourgo/Project%20Leo/P1030119.jpg
Zoom in.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/gocontourgo/Project%20Leo/P1030120.jpg
Full shot taken of the back side.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/gocontourgo/Project%20Leo/P1030121.jpg
Zoom in on the back side.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/gocontourgo/Project%20Leo/P1030122.jpg
Awesome! I’m still amazed you’re actually soldering the components by hand. No way I’d have that kind of patience.
Just out of curiosity, would I be able to solder screw terminals on there? I always worry about having to adjust something down the line and screwing the wires in would seem easier. If the board isn’t really designed for it, so be it.
Screw terminals might fit, but I have no idea. I did try to space them out and make the holes wide enough to fit them to specs, but without any screw terminals to test it out, it may or may not fit.
whats the price on the board and is it preassembled?
This.
Here.
im excited now!!! when can we buy??
I’m going to start putting together the boards next week. I will also be working on new guides for how to use the board in a dual wireless mod. The three 3 xbox360 controller boards I will focus the guides on will be the Microsoft late version wireless controller, the Tekken 6 wireless stick, and the madcatz wired controller (or any common ground wired 360 controller).
I won’t be using separate usb battery charger in these guides so you won’t have to worry about having to make your own. Also, to switch between systems, it will require the use of a switch (or two).
So, next week I’ll put the boards together and I’ll contact the people who are on the pre-order list about payment and shipping info. Will you guys be okay with just an online guide or will you also want some type of intro/welcome paper like the ones you find in toodle’s cthulhu and imp kits?
I think an online guide only should work for now (since we’re more or less in a beta stage, right!); once you start getting more orders a printed paper could work.
I thought both pcbs were running off the same battery. If that was the case, wouldn’t the PS3 usb port recharge the battery? If not, figuring out the best way to charge the battery(s) will beinteresting. For me, I could run the battery to a terminal block then wire up a charging jack to connect with my lipo charger. More fabrication, but doable.
For the switch, were you planning on a regular switch or an imp?
online guide is just fine i think
yup, you guys are the beta. As in you guys beta get this to work 
In all the setups I’ve done, both pcbs were sharing the same battery. Its just that the first 2 were using the separate usb charger and the 3rd one (t6 stick) wasn’t.
For the new guides I’m only going to focus on using the sixaxis doing the recharging, but you’re free to choose how you want to do your own charging and battery setup. My main goal with the Leo board was just to provide easy access to the sixaxis button signals and to make it common ground.
As for the switch, it will be using regular switches. You will most likely end up needing 2 switches. The T6 can end up using just one switch or two. I was working on using a imp board in the second dual wireless stick I made, but ran into some issues. When I get some free time, I’ll get back to seeing if I can solve the issues.
Regular switch it is then. Now to find some nice switches to either hide or show off on the stick somewhere. Definitely looking forward to guide and more pictures.
In the interim I’m trying to figure out what buttons to use for the LED mod. Running them into semitsu buttons seems to be the rage, but I’m still a happ man thru and thru. I’ve seen the clear buttons LL has and some that Groovy Gear sells, but these from happ made me raise an eyebrow:
The setup makes installing the lights very easy, and the bases accept LEDs with no problem (happ sells quite a few). I picked a white one up with a white and red LED and it looks rather trick. My only concern is whether or not the button would be any good for a stick. The spring is a little heavier than a regular happ button, but compressing it a bit can solve that. I do worry if the lip on the button is too high. Having never used convex buttons (all concave baby!) I’m not sure how they are supposed to feel, but I can pick one up and find out.
Sounds like I need to get a case pretty soon…
would a 4pdt switch serve as 1 switch instead of having 2
yes it would
Call me slow, but why would we need 2 switches? 1 for teh data line and one for the power for teh usb connection?
to be more precise, you need a 4 pole double throw switch for doing a MS wireless controller + Sixaxis dual mod. Two poles for the data lines, one for the 5v usb line, and one for the battery. It’s a lot easier to find two DPDT switches than it is a 4PDT switch.
well I revisited the switchless setup that uses the imp board, a separate usb charger, and two load switches (TPS22960). So far it looks like its working perfectly. Seems the lithium ion cell I was using before had gone bad and was the reason there was problems.
I removed the cell and periodically checked the voltage of the cell. It was dropping without being hooked up to anything. Its at 1.12v atm, and after some research, its pretty much done for.
Lithiums do not like dropping below their minimum voltage. If memory serves, lipo should be no lower than 3.7 volts. Once they go below that, they’re toast. You’re better off topping them off than deep cycling them.
BTW, you can check for lipo batteries here:
http://www.clubheli.com/Walkera-37V-1000mAh-10C–HM-BAT37-1000-10_p_287.html
Pick up 2 or 3, wire them in parallel and have an inexpensive 3000 mah battery that should last thru marathon sessions with LEDs blazing.
Out of curiosity, why the separate charger?
makes the switching setup a lot easier imo. If the sixaxis does the charging, then if your playing on xbox mode you have to have some sort of way to prevent the sixaxis from turning on.