I think you also mentioned bountiful RGB famiclones in the TSLG thread and I thought quietly to myself, “WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT?!!” 
-ud
If you want a nice little emulation machine, little atom based computers like the eeebox have hdmi out (something lacking in modded xboxes) and a lot of great, mature emulators work fine on a little atom processor. I haven’t actually checked the prices on this stuff lately but I can only imagine it has gone down in the past 3 years.
If you don’t want hdmi or 1080p output, an xbox is probably the best choice though (or a wii if you already own one)
Found one post like that and added the correction. Please point out any others you see.
That’s not a terrible idea but again, idea of the thread. Old stuff. Yeah. I might use an old computer as an NES though…
You know you want that Famicom Titler… sell your car and embrace your inner retro nerd!
I would… but just following my own guide is gonna take such a massive chunk out of my meager salary… and I don’t even have a recommended switcher for VGA or SCART listed yet…
Scart switches in the US can be hit and miss. You will have to deal with ebay exclusively for these, and while they are often cheap, many are built poorly, or lack isolation between the inputs, or dont have all the lines hooked up. The 3x1 (manual) scart switches are the safest of the lot. I personally just bought a pair of Hama 42957 switchboxes, but those cost a lot more.
Nice info! Any particular model that doesnt have an issue? Like something i could bargain hunt for rather than blindly search EBay and pray?
The one I had had 4 scart ports on it (3 input, 1 output) and 2 sets of RCA outputs. Sometimes they specifically mention RGB in the description, sometimes not. Good luck!
Thanks. So it just needs to mention RGB? Anything else I gotta keep watch for?
Not all SCART is RGB. Some SCART cables carry just composite (or just S-Video I think).
Yeah, I actually un
Yeah, I actually understood that (can’t blame you for thinking I didn’t) but in general, does anything else about the switcher matter?
So if you’re in America, you’re in for a fun hunt! I got that same link searching but I thought there was definitely something better to post.
Also, I got Gummo to be a modder. Sending my 64 soon.
Question: Japanese and American Saturns work the same way for this right? I know about the 10 voltage difference (which doesn’t matter from what I read) but I haven’t been able to find anything about it messing this whole thing up and apparently Japanese Saturns are POPULAR so it kinda matters.
Skeleton Saturns are a thing of beauty.
Work the same way for what? Taking the same power? I used to have a grey Japanese Saturn and it ran fine with standard 110 in a house that I knew had correct wiring. HOWEVER, please read this tidbit:
*----------------------------------------------------------------- *
***4.5 Can I run my Japanese Saturn using a North American outlet or visa versa? ***
A cautious yes. Japan actually runs at a really bizarre 100 VAC. This is completely different just about every place else on the globe which run between 110 and 240 VAC. North America runs anywhere between 110 and 125 VAC depending on location, with 115 VAC being the commonly accepted average. Most people have experienced little to no trouble with the 10 to 25% difference in voltage. Others have said it’ll work, but the Saturn will run a little hotter than normal. If you want to play it safe, the use of a simple step-up converter would be wise.
So basically: sure, but be aware you’re feeding it more than you need. Seriously though: anyone who has gone through the trouble of getting an import system should be aware of this. It’s not something your average gamer is going to randomly invest in.
I kinda did… And I meant with the whole RGB SCART thing.
Ah, yes, that’s a different issue altogether. http://www.racketboy.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22007
I can say that a Euro RGB SCART cable on a US Saturn in conjunction with the cheap-o scaler works a treat. As RosserRooster has shown, you can actually bypass the need for a sync stripper (like the sync strike) while using the scaler, but no harm if you already have one. For a Japanese system, you’d need a Japanese specific RGB cable, due to the pinout difference. Although again, you [S]should[/S] may be able to roll your own by moving the pins around.
So Japanese Saturns need a different cable? Wonderful. How difficult is it to roll your own? More to the point: what’s that mean?