its best to also note that LS-56 and LS-58, have different pivots. its negligible difference, but thats possibly one of the improvements seimitsu did for the 58. ill post pics later. i must be seeing things, disregard.
Just to chime in, I currently have Zippy’s, the ones PAS offers for LS-32’s (modded with short metal levers from OMRON switches) on one of my LS-56. Frankly it makes it feel like a Shorter Throw JLF, with less audible click, the engage is a a tinny bit later too, again, fairly similar to a JLF.
the only issue I have with this is currently there’s no heavier spring options for it, because the zippy’s are very light, even the LS-56’s tight spring is not enough to “straighten up” the stick to have good resistance, what you get is joystick that’s a bit loose and bouncy (has some deflection). that said it’s stressful to the hands after a while because you have to direct the hands more carefully as not to get too sloppy inputs.
Personally found this mod to have potential, I know it ruins the LS-56’s fast engage, but if you find that too sensitive, or want shorter throw, this could be a good option.
The Kaimana guide has been started! It’s mostly structuring with some Lorem Ipsum place holder text for now. I don’t have my hands on the board yet, so I can’t say much about the install process.
I will, however, be starting the “basic guide to arduino” section, in detail today. It’ll have all the good links to tutorials, videos, and code diagrams that I used when I started teaching myself to program an arduino.
That way we might be able to teach some of the community how to do it, maybe then we can tap into the talented minds around here to make something even more special than I can muster. I’ll probably start basic, so that there are a variety of unique easily installed patterns with a simple setup mode, for those uninterested in programming for themselves. Then I’ll get super fancy! There was a nice convo last night about hidden M&M dispensers…
@deBoru I for one Im interested in learning arduino. I’m looking forward to viewing you page man. @Armi0024 so the Kaimana can pass through a PS360+? Wow thats pretty good man. Ok so this is my setup right now; I have a Street Fighter 15th Anniversary that I replaced the buttons and stick with IL/Happ parts (buttons are clear). I have a PS360+ already installed with a sparky jr and Im using IL Lummination2 RGB’s. I want to take out the IL RGB’s, sparky and put in Pele’s with a Kaimana.
Will I still need the harnesses if Im using the PS360+? You know what I’ll just get them anyway, they’re only $0.75, I just want a clean case because right not the inside of my case is a hot mess. I have another SF15thA that I can put play around with later if this one comes out the way I want it to.
Thanks for all the info! If i may ask what type of Omrons are you using currently? Also would I be able to remove the levers from the Matsushita switches and use them in the Omrons or would I have to buy a variant of the given switch with short levers? Based on what you said I’m leaning away from cherry and since @hibachifinal noted that Zippys ruin the short engage it seems like Omron switches would be the best choice for replacement. Speaking about the internals the only time I had ever seen inside a switch was when I removed some old microswitches to replace them and removed the levers. How hard is it to replace the internals of the Omrons and Matsushita switches?
dont do this, you might damage the microswitch housing.
reason is, matsushita’s metal lever placement is different. and the metal lever itself is thicker (overall bigger), and longer than the ones omron/zippy/cherry uses.
-the matsushita’s pictured are directly ones from the LS-56 microsw assy.
-the bottom most OMRON is an official omron with short lever, I found this in a sega saturn stick.
-the one on top of it is an OMRON withouth short lever found in some bemani buttons and HORI “fighting Sticks”
-the omron beside it is the famous ‘red actuator’ microswitch found in JLF TP-MA assy.
-right most is a Zippy that PAS offers.
–omron and zippy (and possibly cherrys) should be able to use the same short lever.
sorry i dont have cherry’s atm but from what I remember, it shares the same measurements as Zippys, ill post more on this when i get some again.
you can clearly see the huge difference in size of the metal levers. if you try to put matsushita’s in omron’s, it will not move well and will get stuck. you can modify the switch’s housing to accommodate it, but you’re on your own on that.
I’ll follow up on that. The Matsushita levers are NOT compatible with any other of the higher end Asian microswitches. If not for the minor displacement then it’s the simple fact they are too wide and you won’t be able to shut the switch case closed if you tried to use them.
Cherry switches are ok measurement wise, however, the tabs that hold the levers in place are square shaped and do not fit into the case without modding the case.
Omron, Gersung, and Zippy levers are all interchangeable.
Omron has an external lever that will fit Zippy, Cherry, and Omron, however this is a rare accessory and you won’t find it easy.
Other notes:
Omron switches are riveted shut, if you want to mod the internals you will need to drill it out. This also means they require care when putting into a stick after internal mods because the housing that holds the levers in will not stay shut on its own. Lucky though, you can simply mount the stick’s body on a flat surface and put the gate on and use gravity to keep it shut. This is how my current LS-56 mod is.
It’s best to simply get a variant of an Omron switch from Mouser.com with levers already on it. If you want something close to stock tension look for about 160 grams of force. You can get any switch from the VA series as long as it meets the lever and tension requirements.
You can also try to look for D3V series of switches, but they’re not common anymore and it’s much easier to find the VA series. VA series is a good series and comparable in build quality and internal components are identical to Matsushita stock switches in the LS series.
You could also look for Gersung, which use gold plated internals and terminals. No difference otherwise.
Cherry switches are expensive and it’s hard to find a model with levers in the force you need, I don’t personally feel they’re worth it when you can get a set of Omron that does the job just as well.
Thanks for the info and pic guys! Microswitch modding sounds a bit intimidating and I dont know if i could actually complete a mod like that. And there goes the plan for keeping the levers… oh well.
Most of the switches I saw on Mouser.com were not short hinge levers. Im probably overlooking them aren’t I?
Then post the pictures because LS series 32,56 and 58 share the same pivot design for me. Only difference in the 32 one is the bigger shaft hole, otherwise is the same.
haha, okay i just undid 4 ls-58/56’s from my sticks, yup seems to be the same. I coulda sworn one of the ls-56’s i got from an old naomi panel had a different shape, it was slightly shorter (thinner), trying to find that specific one in my lots,… could have been really old stock/revision, idk. sorry about that, disregard what I said. orz. take away my cred (if any) now haha.
just gonna say, seimitsu isn’t the most consistent when it comes to some parts anyway, im sure you’ve noticed :v
One thing I love so much about the LS-40 is the pivot design. It’s super smooth and never, ever “pops” like the other sticks can. The stick is phenomenal, possibly my favorite stick. I love the LS-56 as well. I just wish the LS-40 had centered switches instead of offset, a tighter spring, and a longer shaft. It’s an amazing stick. Bryan, please tell me you will have a twist for the LS-40, lol!!
I’d probably still be playing on it if it met those requirements. Actually, if I hadn’t messed up one of the parts in a mod test, I’d probably still be on it anyway.
interesting… that’s really one of the reasons i “dropped” the LS-40 though haha. i found the shaft too tall (when mounted on a metal panel, astro city 2L12B) and it bothered me a bit when it comes to doing circular motions… something I didn’t quite have an issue with on the compact seimitsus.
That’s odd because the shaft mounts about 2 or 3 mm lower than a stock JLF. At least on my LS-40, if you measure the shaft length from the mounting plate to the threading, it’s definitely shorter than the compact sticks and a JLF.
BTW I know it’s been a while for the springs and I was supposed to get them out a while ago, but I literally have not had a car to go to the post office for going on nearly 5 weeks.
hrmm, but you mount compact sticks not flushed to the panel… i guess it’s not the length perse, but the positioning of the pivot, since its mounted higher, closer to the panel itself. I dunno it just feels different from sticks that have it lower away from the panel on where the pivot is located (JLF, LS-5X’s which are mounted lower), i get a better feeling from those… but you get me right?.. anyways, forgot about the springs, don’t stress it man, you’ll get to it when you get to it
An LS-40 base would be fun. My machine shop has been bugging me for some new projects. I could make the base compatible with the JLF shafts for better selection of sizes.
Anyway, for anyone who is looking for a list of microswitches, http://www.omron.com/ecb/products/search/?cat=2&did=1&prd=basic-v&lang=en is my favorite place to gather information. You can pretty much select any model Omron manufactures based on your needs. Then google the part number to see if it’s available.
I’ve personally used 2 different sets of V-10, and while they’re good they do not go high enough in force to feel snappy enough for a stick. Pin plunger V-10 series at 100 gf are also what’s used in Sanwa OBS-xxA/B series of buttons.
16-1 designates short lever
16-2 designates long lever
Both of these sets of switches should do the job. V series is different from D3V series via a rivet locking the case together versus no rivet. D3V series can accept external levers, V series can’t. I was wrong earlier about that.
