they will send you an email when it ships… usps is horrible with updating their tracking but it will get there
Just got an order yesterday… with the weather cancelling flights across the US these past 2 weeks it sometimes takes a bit.
thanks @armi0024 and @susaninparadise … next order will be shortly!
I understand that, I’m just concerned it’s been a week since I paid for the order…
They’re also currently moving and still keeping the business open. You could shoot them a phone call, their contact phone # is on their website. Don’t be afraid to give them a quick call, lol, much better than waiting for an email that may get stuck in a spam filter anyway.
@ed1371 thanks for the orders!
@ogrebites you can always call 651-332-3665 9-5 HST or 2-10 EST I will ask Susan to check emails
@Moonchilde ah, I did not realize.
@armi0024 thank you so much, I appreciate it. I’m usually kind of scared to make phone calls xD
I too recently put in an order (on the 25th) and I have not received any notifications since then about my stuff shipping out. I asked here and a nice gent pointed me to this thread. Absolute Question and Answer Thread (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)
So should I call or is there an ETA for parts being shipped out that you could share with me here (Order OASHDVETS)? Thanks!
-update- Susan just answered my email and she told me the situation (moving and out of syringes for the Molycote) but I will have my stuff sent out soon. Thank you guys and I hope the move is going well!!
Good news for the PAS JLF part line –
The new Hori Hayabusa, which debuted on the Fighting Edge in mid-2012, is compatible with probably every major JLF part or mod kit on the market!
We already knew that every ball handle and bat stick compatible with the LS-joysticks and JLF would fit… What wasn’t known so well (mainly because for 18 months Fighting Edge owners never bothered to do an in-depth analysis of the parts and comparisons/contrasts!) was just how exactly JLF-ish the Hayabusa was.
It was until this past week after some of us got the first batch of Hayabusa’s offered for sale separately that some more can be said with factual data and experience from people who’ve used multiple joystick brands and models in the past.
In short – VERY much a re-engineered JLF clone with JLF spec shafts and most shaft parts being the same measurements as the Sanwa JLF.
It’s definitely superior to the JLF, IMHO. The general performance and handling is better.
The joystick FITS into every major case on market that accepts the JLF. The good news for compatibility with JLF parts is that for instances where the Hayabusa mounting plate can’t fit, a JLF TP-1 will screw onto top of the Hayabusa. The whole assembly is no more bulky than the LS-32 (less so IMHO since you don’t have to remove the PCB or switch assembly like you do the LS-32/-40 for installations) and takes up only a bit more volume than the JLF.
The design is also set up to afford more reasonable mods (to the microswitches) without what I call the Don Quixote approaches for “perfecting the JLF.” => (That will never happen!)
Does it destroy everything else? NO… there’s no such thing as the “perfect joystick” and preferences do come into play. I frankly think it’s as good as the LS-32 and LS-40 but not better… I wouldn’t go about replacing my LS-joysticks with the Hayabusa but it’s definitely an option in addition to those for JLF replacement in future joystick cases. => At least as far as this avowed anti-JLF dissident is concerned.
(Don’t get me wrong – I STILL like Sanwa pushbuttons. It’s the JLF I can’t stand!)
The only thing I don’t see working without major mods would be gate restrictors: the Hayabusa was built very much in mind for the fighting game community (with a square gate incorporated into the base design) and I don’t see any gate restrictors that will fit on the joystick to let you play Pac-Man (comfortably) with it!
All the JLF-compatible shafts and actuator parts should fit with no problem. Ditto for available JLF spring mods and higher-tension replacement springs.
I had a spare JLF on hand (the only one I own at this point in time) to do test fits and I say with 100% certainty that that the JLF and Hayabusa shafts are the same measurements! The Hayabusa joystick fully assembled is slightly wider than the JLF but the same height.
The Hayabusa’s secret to its performance seems to be in the base (V pivot area, microswitch set-up?), and NOT the actual shaft assembly (shaft, actuator, pivot, spring, spring holder, E-ring) which is as JLF-clone as you get…
My one failure was the inability to locate a mainland source for replacement microswitches… specifically, levered microswitches. IF there’s one thing that could improve the Hayabusa it would be levered microswitches. With a minor Dremel mod, the Hayabusa base is very compatible with the levered microswitch type found in the LS-56 (fastener-type) joystick. The Hayabusa has a unique 5-prong adapter but still uses traditional microswitch assemblies that aren’t soldered into a PCB substrate like the JLF and LS-XX-01 series joysticks… I looked around a bit but couldn’t find a mainland supplier for the LS-56 microswitch that fit into the Hayabusa base.
The LS-56 microswitch part number appears to be AM59120N; traits 6A 250V AC… IF it were sold for the US market, it would probably be under the “Panasonic” label of Matsushita. I don’t believe this is the same microswitch that the LS-32 (fastener type) uses. It has a significantly shorter lever on it than the LS-32 microswitch… I don’t know the Omron equivalent if there even is one to this microswitch.
UPDATE: Struck the last part… I doubt I’ll be messing with the microswitches on this joystick any time soon. It tends to get more comfortable and easier to use the longer you play with it.
Not many product really achieve the results that are promised.
I don’t think the Silent JLF or K-sticks really lived up to what was hyped by their manufacturers before release.
Ditto with Seimitsu and the ill-advised LS-56 redesign aka LS-58.
I think Hori may have already won best new product/arcade part introduction of the year 2014…
I doubt we’ll see another control lever achieve this any time soon.
It’s that good!
How about one of the more important factors, like Hayabusa being compatible with PA’s new Uni plate out the box with no further mods? I think Hori did the smart thing and made the parts standardized with JLF parts. That’s good, standards are good. Sadly, JLF engage and throws are not, lol.
It’s been a hectic few weeks here in Paradise! Thank you everyone for your patience during our move.
Good find- I found a small stash of the original Anodized .5mm Actuators, I added them to the site!
The original Universal Adapter plates have arrived and will be mailed out this coming week. They will also be posted on the website this week for those of you who missed the Kickstarter!
Always give me a call if you don’t hear back quickly from an Email, no problem! Just make sure it’s between 9 - 5 HST. We try to have family time on the weekends so emails from the weekend may not get answered until Monday.
@Amerika - out in the mail Saturday!
Hey @SusanInParadise I have a quick comment about the aluminum Bat top that is advertised for all sticks. I purchased one of these from you guys and it definitely does not work with the Seimitsu LS-56-01 that I have. I have a plastic Sanwa bat top that does work fine so I have a good idea what’s wrong. What looks to be the reason behind it not working is, unlike the Sanwa bat, the PA aluminum one allows the threads to keep going on too far and there is no stopping point like with the Sanwa. What happens is when you try to tighten up the LS-56 it pulls the shaft upwards and it can no longer make a solid connection with the micro-switches. So you have to leave the bat loose in order to use it but with it loose it constantly keeps trying to come off during play which is obviously no good. Throw one of your LS-56’s into a stick with your aluminum bat top and try to tighten it up properly and you’ll see exactly what I mean.
So you guys might want to put a note up that the LS-56 definitely is not compatible with the current version and you might want to look into changing how your aluminum top is made to make it compatible since it is very nice!
No worries either way though because I ordered a Crown 303-FK from you guys and I’ll probably be using that anyway 
I have some of their bat tops and they work fine on the LS-56.
Are you sure you’re using the aluminum bat top and not the plastic sanwa (it can sometimes be hard to tell the difference once they are in place I noticed)? Because my plastic one works perfectly but the aluminum one (black) does not. The threads go too far before it stops so when you tighten it up the metal shaft is pulled up because it’s putting pressure against the plastic casing causing the stick to not hit the microswitches properly. I find it hard to believe that a machined part like this would be defective for me and not for you. It makes more sense that you either don’t have it screwed in tight causing the bat to become loose over time or you are simply using the wrong bat top. Or perhaps their design changed between when yours was purchased or mine was purchased or I got an incorrect adapter.
It would take 5 minutes worth of work for them to easily test this since they sell LS-56’s. Drop in the LS-56 + their current aluminum bat top (I have the black one if that matters) and it should have the issues I outlined. If it doesn’t then I somehow got the wrong/defective bat top or adapter with my order 
-edit-
I just read your signature and I’m curious as to your opinion on the differences between the LS-56 and the Hayabusa. In particular how the throw distance and return to neutral speeds compare since I HATE the JLF because of it’s inconsistencies due to throw/return to neutral performance. Thanks!
No, no problems on the aluminum tops at all. I have several different bat tops (and the extra weight of the aluminum makes it very obvious that it’s metal and not plastic) 3 PAS Aluminum tops, 2 Dragon Joystick bat tops in aluminum, a Dragon Joystick polyoxymethylene bat top, and the ugly and old school Sanwa plastic bat top. No issues with using any of them on a LS-56. My only guess is that you’re using a shaft cover that is longer than the shaft (which would be odd on a LS-56 since the shaft is the same length from pivot to threads as a JLF) and when screwing the top on it pulls the shaft up to make up for the extra length of shaft cover. If that makes any sense. This was a problem on a LS-40 I have with a shaft cover that was too long for it. The LS-40 is a strange beast when it comes to how it handles shaft covers.
I’m guessing this may be your issue or somewhat related. A top can have super deep threading (the Dragon Joystick bat top will cover most of the shaft so I use a nylon washer to add about 3 mm of height around the threading) and not affect the stick at all. If the threading is sucking up the stick it’s a shaft cover issue. Have you tried using the bat top without a shaft cover and see if it still does the weird thing you say?
As for Hayabusa, it’s the same as a LS-56 but manufactured to a much higher standard. Throw and engage are the same. With a plastic top it snaps back to neutral faster than any stick I’ve used when using the stock spring. When using an aluminum top you will need a higher tension spring, and all the JLF springs on the market work on it. Deflection on the stick is better than on Seimitsu sticks and better than the JLF. The parts in the stick are of higher quality than both manufacturer’s sticks.
If you are interested in the stick you should read my unboxing thread, I do a break down of the stick and cover a few simple mods.
I’ve never touched the shaft cover. What it came with is what is on it as I don’t have anything else laying around except for a JLF that is sitting in a box in full. And yeah, that is exactly my problem as I tried to describe. I might just dremel it down a quarter of an inch as that will most likely fix it. Maybe the LS-56 I got somehow got sent with a longer shaft cover than what normally comes with them or perhaps they changed between when you bought yours and I bought mine? That’s the only thing that makes sense.
I was very interested in the Hayabusa but then I read/saw the pictures that showed it was mostly a reverse engineered JLF with higher quality parts. So I was worried that it would feel like a slightly better JLF so I decided I’d try out a Crown 303-FK instead (should be here Wednesday or Thursday). If I don’t like it I’d just go back to the LS-56 which I only have very minor quibbles with it (got the squeaking to stop with some molykote at least). But you may have convinced me to try out the Hayabusa at some point unless the 303-FK just sweeps me off my feet. I really like the idea of a circular gate (I have an octagon on my LS-56 and might dremel it) and I’ve read their return to neutral is amazing but it might have a throw that’s further than I want. We’ll see.
It isn’t a JLF. It is it’s own beast that is more of an improved LS-5x with the ability to use JLF mods. Other than the shaft, spring and actuator there is nothing JLF about it. Feels nothing like it.
@SusanInParadise any luck on finding those Kaimana LEDs? 
I really want to get to installing mine :’(
It should include an actuator option because the deadzone in Sanwas is too lengthy.
Kaimanas have been located!!! Sorry on my phone in minneapolis
I had to dremel down the shaft about a 1/4 of an inch and now my PA aluminum bat top works. However, due to the extra weight I’m now getting recoil when I FADC as the snap back to center will put in an opposite input. So every once in a while I accidentally backdash when I didn’t mean to. I assume I can fix this with a stronger spring? If so, which one do I need? I could just go back to the plastic bat top but I love the feel of the aluminum one and am willing to try and fix it.
And I just noticed if I hit down and let it return to neutral I get a jump up. Damnit!
You should get a 2lb spring and a 3lb spring and see which one feels more comfortable.
I don’t understand what you’re referring to here.