After a long hiatus, kids, career, start ups, moving… …slowly making my way back into and onto the scene.
Welcome back
@32teeth WELCOME BACK I saw the harnessing… Good to see you back in action, we need you back on led work!
Welcome back. Hope everything went well. Have you ever considered Texas?? I believe the number 1 rated children’s hospital is in Dallas.
On topic: Anything new on the Kaimana front? 
Texas would be a great place. Plus, it’s central to everywhere, shipping would go out fast to any point in the country. 
The impression I got from Bryan/Armi0024’s post 13 days ago was that Paradise Arcade Shop was staying in Hawaii…
The plans were to transplant the family to the mainland – wherever that will be – but keep the arcade part business in Hawaii, right?
@armi0024, thanks I shot an e-mail towards Susan but I haven’t heard back as of yet; I imagine you all are pretty busy so I’ll sit tight. You all should move to the East Coast and come get some of this Polar Vortex, we’ve got plenty to go around.
@Zensouken I’ll remind her today
The plans are to move in July/August of 2015. I am in the process of interviewing for Spine Fellowships and will find out where we are moving in May. If I get a fellowship position we will move to that location for 1 year and then it will be the almighty job search.
So what’s happening to the shop?
First off, it will be open until July 2015 without interruption. We are 90% set up in a new space that doubled our shelf space (basically we took over a 2 car garage at our new place! Don’t worry we are still Mom and Pop, literally)
So what’s happening after that?
We have a few surprises in store. We may be bringing some more help on board, but we will let people learn the details of this as it evolves. I everything goes as planned over the next 18-20 months we will have shipping locations and be able to toggle between the two to maintain continuity.
Where will we end up?
Well here’s the interview schedule
Duke University
Harvard
Cleveland Clinic
Hospital for Special Surgery
Twin Cities Spine Center
Johns Hopkins
Cedars-Sinai Spine Center
Syracyse University Hospital
Bassett Spine Care Institute
University of Wisconsin
Oregon Health & Science
Mayo Clinic Spine Fellowship
San Diego Spine Fellowship
Brown University
University of California Davis
Thomas Jefferson University
University of Massachusetts
and yes @iNENDOi Texas back literally write me today and asked for my application… it’s good to be wanted
@Pnoy_pryde let’s do those strips this weekend! I have to finish programming then for someone else here who’s waiting on a stick!
Hey @armi0024 random question, would you guys sell those 125g zippys that are optional in IL and similar switches individually similarly to the various other zippy switches? As much as I love cherry switches I like the feel of higher force tension and since the 200g switches from JLFs are pretty hefty I was wondering if you guys would do what you did for the silent zippys for the 125g ones before I hit up mouser or some other place.
Hi,
Any updates/ETA on those LS-32 higher-force/tension springs and when they’ll be available?
Hori beat you guys this past day… It was a countdown to see who would release their new parts first!
They took my money for a Hayabusa joystick.
(Wasn’t going to go crazy on buying more than one part to test. Springs and buttons are usually the only thing I’ll order more than 2 pieces of!)
Would like to add higher-tension springs for the next round of tests!
I got tired of the whole LS-32/mix my stock springs/screw them together, etc., etc. business… a higher-tension spring, period, is the way to go…
Do you guys carry the JLF dustwashers with the small sized holes? The ones made to go on when the shaft has no cover?
[Be nice, be nice, be nice…]
Go to the Paradise Shop website => http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/
Go to the heading that says “Product Categories” and click on it.
The page will reload with all the product/items on the left.
Scroll down to the listing that says “Sanwa Parts” directly under “Sanwa Joysticks”.
Click on “Sanwa Parts” and check out the dustcover listings. The part you need should be in there.
That “smaller hole” dustcover is less common because most people buy JLF’s with the shaft cover installed… There is not a joystick manufacturer (Hori, Mad Catz, Qanba) now that sells pre-installed JLF’s that don’t have shaft covers.
Most people would GET the shaftcover/dustwasher kit (JLF-CD kit) because of the extra protection it gives to the shaft… the standard JLF and LS-32 shafts are NOT anodized or coated to protect them from rust. They can and DO rust after exposure to heavy sweat.
I never had an exposed shaft rust on me. Ugh, that’s porn shit right there.
Thanks, and sorry. I understood about the rust and all though it’s less likely with some metals than others. I was looking into the longer shaft, and since the covers won’t really work for that I was looking for the other washers, just had a tough time of finding them with most bein’ the other type.
All the hollow shafts (long shafts) are stainless and will not rust.
Long shafts are here:
Dust washers are here:
Dust washer with shaft covers are here:
http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/293-paradise-arcade-custom-parts
I doubt you own an arcade or let 1,000+ sweaty-handed people handle your joystick controller, too.
Shaft handles can and DO corrode. IF the shaft is aluminum, they technically don’t rust; steel and other metals WILL rust unless they’re treated with anti-rust OR have a cover to keep the sweat off the metal.
Happened to me with an old Wico red ball. Way before they had the decent joysticks they have today, I used to hold the Wico closer to the pivot. Guess what happened to the bare metal after a while??? Yeah, it turned a nice WHITE color after a while! (Probably an aluminum metal shaft. Aluminum doesn’t rust the way steel does. It gets a semi-transparent white oxide layer on top of it that actually acts to protect the alloy beneath it. That’s partly why they turn up aircraft wrecks from past wars that are still in decent shape despite being in muck for decades…)
I’m sure I’ve seen pictures of some bare alloy JLF’s or LS-32’s (or other joystick brands) with nasty rust on the shaft handles.
Took me 5 seconds to Google this topic and there were multiple hits of people reporting rust on older joystick shaft levers… There were also some pics popping up of old Wico arcade joysticks with some nasty shaft rust, too.
As much as I’m sure Sanwa likes to make money selling JLF-CD kits, there’s got to be a reason besides anti-theft for why most JLF’s are sold with shaft covers.
For that matter, most Seimitsu’s have shaft covers, too.
I like the alternate colors (blue, red, and clear/white) for decoration, too. Nice to have another option besides all-black for the LS-32 (and maybe the Hayabusa which is compatible with the JLF shaft covers)…
I think they enhance the look of levers in addition to protecting the shafts and making it harder to remove the balltops on purpose or by accident…
I been think of the material for clear arcade parts.
Are they Clear ABS plastic or Acrylic?
I was thinking at least clear Sanwas are Acrylic due to their hard yet brittle nature.
@armi0024 what you think?
I thought Hori used ABS plastic for sure in their joystick cases.
I don’t know about what Sanwa uses.
I will say this about Sanwa shaft covers –
I’ve been doing mods for a couple years (going on 5 now?) seeing as no major manufacturer makes shaft covers for LS-32’s and the Sanwa JLF-CD kit is the closest manufactured that’s reasonable for a mod (aside from the Mad Catz kits which are overpriced IMHO and the Qanba’s which I have no experience with but seem to be reasonable MSRP).
It’s still a pain-in-the-butt to shave up to half the plastic off but I really like the look of covered stick levers better and appreciate the piece of mind in preventing any incidence of rust on the control lever, too.
Black’s a nice neutral color and you don’t have to worry about color-coordinating but it’s still nice to have up to three more shaft cover colors (transparent red, transparent blue, clear/white) that work well with at least 80% of anything else you can think up, too.
It MAY just be me but I could swear the plastic Sanwa uses for the transparent JLF-CD shaft kits is harder to file than the original plastic JLF-CD shafts.
I really don’t think it’s the same material. I could be wrong but each mod I did of this stuff (three times so far) it felt like it was harder to file it down to fit and it definitely took longer, too.
(Results were still worth it, IMHO. Transparent shafts make the metal underneath look like it was power-coated/anondized with a metallic paint from a distance. Up close, it’s kind of “cloudy looking” because of file marks but from a distance you don’t see that… Beautiful!)
The first time I modded a transparent JLF shaft cover, I thought it was a fluke… by the third time, I thought, “Uh-uh. This plastic definitely is harder to work – or at least it feels like it!”
I sent an e-mail to the sales at paradisearcadeshop.com regarding an order that I place a little over a week ago that still has yet to ship. Unfortunately I have not had a response back so I thought I might ask here if there is any update I might be able to receive?? Hopefully this is the right place for that!