Keep your eyes open for a great new deal. We will be teaming up with Jasen’s Customs to provide button and joytick options. Shipping will be $6 for 11 buttons and 1 joystick… plus! the new Universal plates will allow you to easily use almost any joystick in the Panzer case!
What LED/button combo do you think would light the inside of the case (outside of the buttons) the most? I’m building a Tek-Case for a good friend and I want that top plexi panel to light as much as possible around the edge so I need maximum light emitting from the outside of the button. Should I throw a couple of loose LEDs on the inside of the case or hot glued directly to the bottom side of the top panel?
I also need to light only one button on another stick. No light on press or anything necessary. Just always on under power. Whats the best way to do so?
No West Coast love… 
Peles probably, since most of the other LED boards are parallel to the top panel and perpendicular to the sides, the Pele can adjust the dispersion of light due to the hinges. The only thing wrong with it is that the colors you would try to go for each individual button would probably bleed out a bit if the case is clear, but I guess that wouldn’t matter too much if you aren’t going to do individual button colors or elaborate patterns. Also the Pele hinges are very fragile so I would take a TON of care if you do plan to use them.
If you did use bottom mounting LEDs it probably would disperse light around, but I don’t know how far it would go. I mean if you could do flat top monochrome LEDs and drill holes in them since flat tops have a wider viewing angle than round tops.
Honestly you could probably use an LED strip or something that borders around the case (similar to something I’m trying to do) or have one or two monochrome LEDs( probably 5mm or so…) mounted on the corners facing the preferred direction, but that all depends on how much you want your case to light up. I mean… you don’t want to blind yourself while playing… maybe a buddy next to you to mess around but if the case is all clear it could get pretty bright with enough LEDs.
corner method above with 1 per corner or alternatively 2 total diagonal across from each other… or just one huge LED mounted on the bottom. Just wire like a normal LED to your VCC and Ground with the appropriate resistor(s). For more than one you could just wire in series with a single resistor as well, but it’s all up to you
The case is all white but the top panel is clear. It will have art on top so light shouldn’t come through anything but the buttons from the top. I just want there to be a subtle lighting around the edge of the top panel. I may just use J’s and see how it works and then go from there. I really don’t like the idea of cramming the case with adapter boards. The LED strips would work but I think it might be more light than I’m trying to get. Then again I could always mount them as far away from the edge as possible. I like the idea of putting a few LEDs in the corners. That might be perfect. Thanks for the help Pnoy.
No prob! While LED Controller boards are good, sometimes you really don’t need them if it’s just to keep an LED constantly lit. Adapter boards wouldn’t be that bad if you solder to the bottom and try to do some super wiring. It’s annoying but saves a ton of space (but induced a bit of rage… at least for me).
Anyways hope the project goes well! I need to start on mine too…
Los Angeles, San Diego, Sacramento, Portland… 
I agree with Pnoy, if you are going for constant light, no need for Kaimana, if you want control, I’d go with strips
The move’s about family, isn’t it???
Unless you plan on moving to where it’s usually warm throughout the year, the weather SUCKS in the mainland! I am NOT a huge fan of winter. I grew out of that by my mid-20’s!
It’s not just this winter which has seemed unusually cold but it’s been very up and down temp-wise. We had 70-degree weather as late as November where I live! It’s been constantly up-and-down between 20-ish degrees and 40 degrees since around the middle of December, though… Our latest reports are temps dipping down to at least ZERO Fahrenheit and not getting much warmer than the 20’s for the next couple of days.
Wisconsin and Minnesota have very DEFINITELY COLD winters regardless of the year. They get blizzards practically every year, period. Can’t speak to the others as I haven’t lived in those places (or really know anyone who does) but it’s a solid bet most northeast winters are not going to be mild, either. In my state, you will DEFINITELY get hit hard by winter if you live anywhere near Lake Erie. It’s a foregone conclusion. That was my experience when I lived in Chicago for a while, too… Chicago’s right by Lake Michigan so you can’t avoid lake effect on the weather.
Colorado seems to be pretty popular right now 
It’s all about SoCal winter. Nice enough to wear shorts and a shirt during the day lol
I need to light one button (PS-14-KN) with a white LED. Always on. Should I use a Uila or Pele??
KNsert! Wait those aren’t in stock anymore… 3mm led then? If this is the same TEK case then I’d use a Uila so the majority of the light is directed upwards out of the button.
Nope. Not the same stick. This is a TE-S. Thanks Pnoy.
My vote still goes for uila! the only thing is that you have to melt/drill a hole for the wires, and if your using them with a kaimana then you’d have to splice the wires with some sodler. Either way I love those more than the Peles since I’ve had a few peles’ hinges break on me… mainly due to my own fault.
I wasn’t planning on using any controller for this one. I’ve seen the install process for the Uila. Seems pretty straight forward. Just need to wire it to VCC and ground, right? Where’s the best place to get power?
If you have a 360 SCV TE check the undersides of the board next to where the USB is soldered to and you can find some solder pads for the USB connections. They’re a nice size so they shouldn’t be a problem. Or just use the same spots the USB is soldered to on the bottom. If you have a PS3 PCB then you pretty much have to go for the USB lines unless you want to wire up to the pads under the turbo panel, in which you would still have to solder to the same VCC point on the USB connection. Let me take a quick pic… edit: I hate my camera
Lmao. Its a TTT2. Same thing, huh? I’ll check it out later. Thx.
hangs head in shame dang it…
I’m digging the new Universal Plate. Once they are available, combine them with the buttons of PAS; the PFS is a great way to custom build your stick. Love it!
The good news:
Paradise Arcade Shop has now doubled our shelf space, and we did the move in one day…
The bad news:
I think I owe Susan about 50 sessions as the masseuse now to get out of the dog house.
thank you everyone for your patience, I have been a bit disengaged through the holidays but I’m working on some great things coming soon!
We have finally settled pricing again on the universal plates and we will be allowing preorders when we confirm stamp production is complete.
hello @armi0024 are you from Paradisearcadeshop?
I have to say im very dissapointed with my first purchase…
1.-January 2nd, After complete my order and paid with paypal my order history is empty, like never made a purchase ¬_¬
2.-I used the contact form in the web and nobody answered for days
3.-Then i got somewhere this email: sales@paradisearcadeshop.com and asked about my order
4.-Susan said that there was an error in paypal module and she will send my order the next day
5.-Paypal emailed me with “your order is in its way and here is your tracking number” YEEEHAAA!
6.-Paypal emailed me with “your shipment has been cancelled” WHATTTTTTTT?
7.-Email to susan asking for my order with no response
8.-Email to susan asking for my order with no response
Please can you check what happened with my ghost order???
Thanks