Merry Christmas PAS.
Merry Christmas to you both - and to Tech Talkers one and all!
The "Fight Stick 1"s I ordered for my XMen cab donāt fit quite right because itās a wooden US control panel. Even though the sticks havenāt been used Iām at least a few weeks away from the allowed return date. Itās my own fault. I thought Iād recess the wood in the inside and redrill holes but itās not something I really want to do after putting on the CPO and realizing how much the holes already affect the artwork.
1- Do you have any mounting brackets to put a Japanese style stick on a US wood cabinet? JLW mounting brackets perhaps?
2- If I ordered the Zippys with long shafts does that mounting bracket fit on standard US cabs or would I need a JLW mounting bracket for that as well? Itās difficult to tell by the photos.
I forgot to order 1 player to 4 player imprint buttons and need a few hole plugs anyways so once Iām sure what Iāll do with the sticks then iāll go from there.
Thanks again PAS!
Funny you askā¦ he just ran this kickstarterā¦ I got 6 plates when they get done comingā¦
Sorry guys, quick post, the last few days have been hectic, 5 year old, Christmas, fun, tiringā¦
@iNendoI , I have not forgotten about you but there was a problem with the coat of paint I stripped it, repainted and have a box of parts waiting to be reinstalledā¦ my Christmas demo will be a few days late 
Killing me, I thought, hmmm quick touch upā¦ 4 days later!
@ed1371 amazing secret santa gift, we were shooting Bahama Almonds, which is my name for the drink I came up with because we only had amaretto and spiced rumā¦ and you are correct, @frankcastleAZ the inversal plates will work great. Howeverā¦ I would STRONGLY suggest that unless you really want ball tops, I would put ILās into that cabinet, they are great, will NEVER break and will fit your hole patter perfectly. For 12 dollars you are going to get a much much better joytick than either the Zippyys or FS 1.
Now we are off to the hospitalā¦ There are two boys in house at Shriners tonight and my son is bringing some presents down for them.
Wow I totally would have helped fund if I would have known. Either way, I still want to get this cabinet done ASAP and into the comic shop that wants it.
I know how good iL Eurosticks are as I use them in almost all of my other US cabs along with iL Competition pushbuttons. Butā¦ I have to have ball tops. Iām just an arcade purist and the original XMen cab had ball tops.
See photo-
1- Do you have any JLW mounting brackets?
2- If I ordered the Zippys with long shafts does that mounting bracket fit on standard US cabs or would I need a JLW mounting bracket for that as well?
3- How long is the estimated production date for the kickstarted UniBrackets?
Thanks PAC
Frank,
The Zippyyās are LS-32 clones. By clone, theyāre almost an EXACT MATCH for the flat-plate LS-32ās with the 0.187 tab prongs. I got two in this past Monday and am very satisfied with them. They use the same style mounting plate/bracket that the Seimitsu brand name does. (I have samples of the Seimitsu flate plate and the Zippyy plate is identical in every measure.) That flat plate is incompatible with American (re: Happ/iL) mounting standards. Even if you got the SS Mounting Plate for the LS-32 that seats the joystick lever closer to the faceplate/panel surface, that still wouldnāt fit the mounting holes/drill positions already in the American cabinet.
A longer-shaft Zippyy MIGHT work but it would still require a different mounting bracket than the one the Zippyy ships with. Nobody can say for certain unless thereās measurement of the depth of the panel in your cabinet and an idea of how the stock joystick mounts were drilledā¦ Keep in mind, both shaft styles of Zippyyās come with the LS-32 style flat mounting plate.
The guy who knew all this stuff on SRK doesnāt post anymoreā¦ Heād probably tell you that none of the Japanese/Asian parts will fit exactly into an American cabinet. The Japanese seem to prefer metal joystick faceplates and thinner (re: metal) cabinet panels anywayā¦
Speaking of the Sanwa JLW ā that is usually the alternative that gets recommended by a bunch of people who own older-style arcade cabinets and want a Japanese part with better feel but is āsort ofā closer to the Happ/iL. Iāve got no experience with that joystick but a bunch of people with older arcade cabinets or who like to play Pac-Man/Donkey Kong all the time do talk that joystick up. (And yes, people HAVE played Street Fighter with the JLW as well! Some older mass-market joysticks in the early 1990s used JLWās or JLW-clones as the control lever.) The JLW (both models) appear to be out-of-production but thereās still a lot of stock of it worldwide and replacement parts like gates still get made for it. Again, wonāt solve the issue of stick mounting, though.
On the subject of mixing and matching Sanwa and Seimitsu parts ā with the exceptions of the SW-68 and PS-14-D microswitches --, they just arenāt interchangeable. The JLW mounting bracket will not work with
another joystick without a drill press mod. The existing screw holes wonāt line up with anything but a JLW.
Thereās nothing wrong with the quality of the Zippyyās ā theyāre actually very good for the price and feel exactly like the LS-32(-01) which Iāve been using for 4 years now. IF it were me, I would go with more comfortable control levers (the LS-32/Zippyy clone or the LS-40) IF I could make or buy a mounting bracket that would allow them to be installed in existing cabinet hardware. Depends on how much of a purist you are and how close you want to stay to stock condition with that cabinet you own. The next potential owner, if you ever decided to sell, might not like seeing a bunch of modifications done to that hardware. Thatās something you have to keep in mind with anything thatās collectibleā¦ I would definitely steer away from doing a bunch of extra drilling if you can avoid itā¦
P.S. ā
I rarely saw balltop handles on arcade machines in the US in the 1980s and 1990s. They were almost all bat sticksā¦ including about every Street Fighter II or other fighting game machine you could think of.
IF they had balltop handles, they probably used joysticks made by Wico or some other defunct US manufacturer. Happ/iL was the predominant manufacturer for the bat sticks Iād imagine. Wico made both balltop handle and bat stick joysticks.
I did see the old X-Men sidescroller, too, but I donāt remember if it had balltop handles or bat sticks. I canāt say that perhaps aside from some Sega and Namco cabinets that there was never much in the way of Japanese joysticks and buttons on any of the machines.
By all means I appreciate all of your input, but I think there was only 1 thing you mentioned that I didnāt already know.
You answered my question #2, so thank you. Iāll wait for PAS to answer the question to #1 and #3.
@Armi0024 - No hurry. I know youāre looking out for me like always. Itās Christmas. Crazy all over. Hope your patients liked the gifts. My gf thinks you guys are the Patron Saints of the Arcade. @GeorgeC - Thanks for bringing the n00bs your wealth of knowledge. I appreciate your willingness to share it.
I was going to buy two LS-40ās going by the infor on slagcoin but I figured that getting two 1mm actuators for my JLFās would solve my engage issue; Iāve been reading anything larger than 1mm in stock JLF is overboard and inoperable. Has Santa been good to PAS and blessed us with a restock?
I just got a 1mm delrin actuator in. Are they out of those or are you only wanting the aluminum one and they are out of that??
1mm regular and gate haters are in stockā¦
Aluminum parts were delayed. We added on a new treat to the order and didnāt realize that slowed the whole process downā¦
Oh, I didnāt notice the Delrins. Is there any quality disparity or whatnot between the Delrin and the PAS one? I guess Iām not too hard up on the shiny, I just want it to work.
NINJAEDIT: Someone upstairs does not want me to have rapid fire JLF engagement. Only one left in stock. Guess Iāll wait til 2014.
Also, Iām wondering if there is a really thin JLF shaft cover? I am using the PAS anodized dust washer but when placed in combination with a clear Sanwa shaft cover it seems to restrict the movement of the stick. Not by much but just enough that it gets tougher to perform motions with ease. Iām currently playing with my stick without a shaft cover (oh boy, puns ahoy) and thinking of my options being a thinner shaft cover or sanding the inner diameter of the dust washer a bit.
The delrin is nice. It shouldnāt make too much of a difference from the aluminum. I actually think that the aluminum actuator makes the spring squeak a little every once in a while. I probably just need to put a dab of molycote inside.
I just went from a 0.5 oversize metal actuator in metal to delrin in the last few days. The delrin has less of a thud when you hit the gate as it is plastic on plastic instead of metal on plastic. I prefer the feel and it is a bit quieter too.
Iāve tried both, in a couple of sizes, and prefer the aluminium ones. Still, at least theyāre so cheap you can get both and see which you preferā¦
Thanks, Iāll take a jab at the Delrins and get some Molykote while Iām at it. Might as well lube up while Iām at it.
Nice thing about delrin is how smooth it is. There is very little friction to deal with, so itās excellent for parts that slide against each other.