The only people I can see busting through 1million press buttons in a year are the guys who do tourneys seriously ā like a half-dozen or more a year.
I just donāt see the average gamer ā unless heās an addicted high school kid or college student who doesnāt do anything BUT game ā going through more than a set every other year.
You have to be getting in some serious time with this hardware AND beating the hell out of it to really damage it!
<SIGH> I know, I know, this is SRKā¦
ADD-land where people donāt read the Stickie FAQās and come in and ask the most inane questions without doing a lick bit of research! People around here figure out new ways to break things all the timeā¦ Look at the newest idea for installing guitar straps on their joystick cases and carrying them around like unprotected squashā¦ Maybe these guys really CAN break that hardware in a year! LOL
Well I use a hitbox, so it seems more likely that the directional buttons would wear faster than the attack buttons, so I was just trying to get an idea of how often the people around here have to change out buttons. A year seems really short, so I hope itās much longer than that.
you honestly shouldnāt worry about the buttons, if ever, just as long as you take care of your stuff and clean them out regularly. grime and dirt can build up inside the button, just disassemble the plunger and clean out the insides carefullyā¦ if a button āgoes badā you donāt need to get a whole new button, just replace the micro switch if possible.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1908672/candy/422997_500773186621366_1187414474_n.jpg
I dunnoā¦ At 40% of the cost of the button, I still think itās worth it to replace an entire button ALONG with the microswitch as long as the button is A) scratched to blazes; and B) isnāt a limited edition/limited run button or otherwise pricier model (clear art button) thatās also still in nice shape.
$1.25 (switch alone) versus $2.95 average for an entirely new button.
Past 30% cost of a new item, I just donāt see the numbers adding up well for just a switch replacement.
In BUYING NEWS ā
IF I order some parts within the next day or so, is there still a good chance theyāll make it to the US mainland before Christmas?
I might finally break down and get 1 or (MORE LIKELY) 2 short-shaft Zippyyās. The price break over the LS-32 is a bit too much for me to ignore any moreā¦ Even with having to get harness adapters and the right mounting plates, the price cutās too high for me to eat.
My only concern are the stock microswitches in the joystick. I donāt plan on silent upgrades for these but am relieved that the switches can be swapped out/replaced with easy-to-get parts. Thatās one concern I have with the PCB version of the LS-32ā¦ JLF substrates/microswitched PCBās are easy to get in-States but the LS-32/Seimitsu PCBās not so muchā¦
Oh, and for what itās worthā¦
Short shaft sticks ā use 35mm or small ball handles; you can adjust for 38mm ball handles fine, but it seems like thereās a relation between shaft/faceplate clearance height and comfort for the size of ball handle.
Larger ball handle size can get in the way of being able to execute tap-tap/dash maneuvers successfully with lower shaft clearance. I noticed that a bit play-testing Darkstalkers 2 with the 38mm ball handle. Iām sure I CAN get adjusted to it but it was an immediate difference there. All other maneuvers (dragon punch, quarter/full circles, etc.) seem to execute about the same for me.
I know for my likes that larger than 38mm is just NOT in the cards. I have small enough hands ā with pudgy fingers. I can visibly SEE the difference between 35mm and 38mm diameter ball handlesā¦ Itās BIG to me. 38mm is still playable for me but noticeable. 45mm ball handles are NOT in my future!
LONG shaft sticks ā donāt see how 38mm will do much at all to affect play with long shaft joysticks; gorilla hands will probably be comfortable with the larger balltop handles and be able to play Street Fighter just fine with 45mm balltop handles. For the rest of us, a 35mm (or 38mm) balltop handle is more comfortable.
The way SNK/Seimitsu and HORI did it was that, Shorter more thinner shaft = Smaller balltop.
The NeoGeo AES joystick had a very thin and short shaft, hence 30mm, compensated by using heavy microswitches (omrons)
Old HORI FS series used a seimitsu clone, similar to Aes stick in some ways, thin shaft short height. used 32mm balltop, similar heavy omron microswitches.
if that indicates anything.
I still have the black balltop from my old Hori Fighting Stick SSā¦ Besides the connector cord (which I turned into an RJ-45 cord for MC Cthulu), itās the only piece I have left of that joystick.
The balltop is 30mm-size. Thatās definitely a little-handsā joystick handle!
Too little for me honestlyā¦ thatās something a smaller person, lady, or little kid could use.
if you dont want it can i buy it, its acutally 32mm (yeah, we caliperād it to compared with sanwa 30mm lol), but yeah, i need one of these for somethingā¦
If you use Sanwa OBSC buttons, youāre looking at about $4.50 each. For a hitbox, thatās around $14 for a new set of switches, and $50 for all new buttons. I have a hitbox with OBSC buttons, so thatās what Iād be looking at. Changing the switches out seems like a much better option since thatās a difference of $36.
Guys sorry things are insanely busy here right now, which is great, but I need to respond quicker and will here in the next few weeks.
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@evolution169 The RG buttons are nice and donāt break but I agree that I donāt think these are needed for the average gamer. One way to look at it is that if you have over 1 million pushes on a button, you probably got your 3-5 dollars worthā¦
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@Hibachifinal I 100% agree with cleaning and recommend that for the plastic grime you look at Krud Kutter, you can buy at home depot and it will dissolve oily grime crap that you never thought could be cleaned. I clean 20 year old arcade control panels that have caked on people grime and they look new.
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@Georgec shipping, yes, priority mail is still slated to arrive by xmas, just hit Susan with a text before you order and double check.
AND THE MOST IMPORTANT
4) WE ARE ANNOUNCING A NEW ADDITION TO THE KAIMANA LINE UP THIS WEEKENDā¦ SO KEEP YOUR EYES ON FACEBOOK AND HERE.
We are going to really try and showcase why open source is the way to go 
Infinite possilibitiesā¦ @Pnoy_Pryde time to make a nice addition to that award winning stick!
*Patiently waits while twiddling thumbs ā¦
Arrrggggghhhh! (ćą² ēą² )ćå½”ā»āā»
So closeā¦ yet it seems so far! Iām killing myself from my own impatienceā¦
Now I must sit and spam F5 on this thread and the facebook page lol.
Well canāt really do that cause of mid-terms butā¦ oh well.
:DDDDDDD
Hey, I was wondering,do you guys carry replacement springs for happ sticks? Specifically, I have a couple of older perfect 360 sticks and want to try out different spring types (light med hard) to see what I like best.
@Half-Ro We do have IL springs, I believe the hard ones. I do have some HAPP soft and hard springsā¦but they are at another location. Iāve already contacted them and asked that they send them my way.
Any hope of some day carrying anodized (coloured) M4 screws for the TE?
@threi funny you should ask. Darksukal was one of the first to introduce these and we just asked if he would mind if we launched the Darksukal Anodized Screwsā¦
Now I am getting a huge Ego
I was the first to sell Anodized TE screws and a taught Bryan here the* Dark Arts* of anodize TE screws.
I stand corrupted
Thank you maam! Whenever you get them in, if you wouldnt mind posting in this thread, I get some from you guys (amongst some other things I need).