From start to finish. This tut will show how to steps on where to start, what to think of, etc… This tut is for Photshop CS.
I usually start off with a quick sketch. Does not have to be tight at all since you are painting over it. Paint bucket the bg and draw on a seperate layer.
I then determine light source and connect my shadows. This part is vital because this will set a solid mass and keep your eye focused on where light and shadows hit. http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/9418/tut15js.jpg
3.I then block in the other side with a MIDTONE. Remember not to “pop” any highlights until the end. Why would you pop any highlight when you don’t have the mood set yet. It takes a shadow mass and a midtone mass to set up correctly.
Where the midtones and darks intersect. I choose a color higher in saturation and build it as a blend. http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/4151/tut21yh.jpg
5.Sagat is now all the same color. So let’s set some variation on him. Warm spots which include, nose, cheeks, ears, lips, legs, arms, hands, feet, should be bumped up in those areas using a warmer color.
Ok now that we have set the basic mood, let’s pop some highlights. The highlights should stay tighter and should not diffuse and disperse widely all around. If so you will lose structure and your image will end up flat.
And that is it! Once you have all the elements you need in a picture, you can go as far as you want with it. Blend it more if you want or leave it as is. http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/5097/tut46yc.jpg
Important notes following this tutorial:
Try to avoid zooming in when setting up colors. The screenshots I have taken is as far as I zoom in when starting a picture like this. You can zoom in and finish with fine detail later. Set up is the key.
I use the HSB slider so you dont have to use the color picker to bring up that color screen. Simply slide the arrows to adjust colors to your liking.
Hue - hue is the color
Saturation - saturation is how vivid you want your colors to be. Slide it to the left if you want it more greyed out.
Black - How dark you want your colors to be. Slide the arrow to the left for darker color and right for lighter colors.
Feel free to ask questions if you are interested.
The pics in themselves explain alot. I really wanted to know how you went about starting, most of all. I think I’ll give this technique a whilr later today.
Ahh, makes like 10 times more sense to me now, man thanks. :tup:
You’re gonna laugh at me for this but I thought, when you painted from dark to light, I thought it meant painting the entire figure black… man, was way off.
Man. This is Helluva helpful. Might experiment a few like this for a while to get the hang of things and then try it with my colored linework and thick inks later.
Working with your Darks first is a sin in Pavement art. No wonder I have so many saturation issues.
Cheers SFMC!!!
Also whats with the fleshy aura you added in the 5th pic? Is that just to tighten it up a tad? Or were you starting on a background?
Damn kando you are doing great! Very nice suttle value man. How do I set up shapes in sketching to be defined? I try to think like a graphic designer when starting out. Adark shape and a light shape. When you are done squint your eyes and you should see the same shapes you started out with.
I usually start out on 100 percent to ensure solid shapes. I’ll go 70 when finishing up and blending. Yeah cause if you have opacity on like 20 to 30, then it will take like 10 strokes to equal one 70 to 80 opacity brush stroke. Alot faster and it will boost your confidence in a 1 stroke painting. You will also feel yourself moving much faster. 1 hour paintings with 20 to 30. 15 to 20 minutes on 70 to 80.
I knew b stood for something else besides black. Shows I don’t know jack about ps. haha.
Eyepatch on the other side? Is there a site that shows you all the technical details about what goes where as far as design goes? I think It would be a good time to learn since I never really payed attention to that.
not really, best choice is probably official art from http://www.sfgalleries.net/
and of course, the SF Eternal Challenge artbook
Sprites are always iffy since they get flipped around a lot
When using a mouse you won’t capture the sense of lineweight and sensitivity a tablet can get. Can maybe be done in mouse but the results will not look the same.
Gah, felt that one coming. Well then, where’s the thread that breaks down tablet recommendations based on price and performance? Or can we talk about that briefly here? The prices for those things can get awful steep.
It’s cool we can talk about that here. Just so you don’t make Rook angry, you can ask a question starting a new thread or one that exist already.
As far as brands there is one dominant company that sells the best tablets and that is wacom. www.wacom.com
I’ve never went with any other brand so I probably don’t know how great the others are.
Yeah they can be pretty pricey, but in the end it is worth it. Check out the site and I’m sure the site can break it down better than i can as far as what you want to do with it.
Thanks, I’ll check that out and make another thread if need be. But one more question while we’re at it, what model tablet and the dimensions thereof do you personally use? Or at least what model and dimensions do you suggest for adequate art and rendering as seen here?
