1000 if you are just removing the gloss you don’t want your paper too strong it will leave scratches and dye will only seep not cover/fill
Guess I’ll wait a month or so before sanding. I’m a bit scared after it took the corners off last time.
a month is not going to change anything it will be the same this is a common problem. 2000-1000 is ultra fine sandpaper notebook paper feels rougher
I was able to fix most of the affected areas by gently rubbing them out with a wet cloth. No paint was coming off but I guess the dye was still wet enough to be malleable.
if you reapply use a heat gun or hair drier to warm the can it always gives me the best results
Just started painting a TE and an SE with VHT. I already see one spot where I applied too much. Hopefully it will sink in to the plastic. If not do I need to just lightly sand with 2500 grit or something and repaint? Going to to use a clear coat, I dont trust this stuff. I did sand down the sides of the TE, clean before painting etc. I waited half an hour before flipping but paint still overlapped in one spot and built up. Going down in another half hour to see if it evened out.
edit: sanded down ok. PS: Those SE crevices are a bitch to get paint into without gumming it up.
I would not be surprised if you come back and find it evened out after a while. That happened to me a few times, but it always evened out. The only time I ever had a problem with it was painting an old original xbox in the winter in my garage… it was just TOO cold and I kept seeing cracks of unpainted areas…that was a disaster.
If you do see buildup I would sand down, maybe with 1000-1500 or so and do another coat, it should be fine. Unless it’s super noticeable, if you plan to sand/buff your clearcoat it probably won’t even make a difference in the end, but…i’m a perfectionist too, so I get it
Yeah I got it out. Did you use that MDF tutorial for the sand/buff clear coat or just knew how to do it? I am a little hesitant because the clear coat might make the cable door on the TE stick.
As long as you separate the door of the cable housing it should be fine. But it doesn’t need that much clear coat because its a small piece. Well that’s what i did with mine any ways.
Got it, thanks.
anybody here deal with RIT dye products? thinking about dipping my vx-sa in cherry red.i want that arcana vx-sa colorway.
not good for the abs used for arcade sticks only for disc golf and some models
Well VHT doesnt seem like real dye to me. I painted a TE (with the sides sanded down) and and SE and after a week they both showed white when light sanding imperfections out. I am going to clear coat these for sure now.
Finished my first stick last night. I didn’t utilize my best cutting skills for my lamilabel artwork
but I think it turned out pretty good for my first attempt. Used vinyl dye to take it from white to black. Very easy, much easier and quicker than paint. I can always replace the artwork whenever I want. What do you guys think.


I’ve tried this product, and it doesn’t work well at all. One method involves you using heat, which can warp the plastic, and even then the color is easily scratched off. Go with one of the spray on products, you will be much happier.
I totally agree with mr fixit rit isn’t the way to go I personally use adhesion promoter and either graffiti grade spray paint or krylon plastic bonding paint its a little more work to get the finish perfect but you can get awesome results
Anyone have experience painting the metal panel of the TE or HRAP? I was thinking about painting mine, but it would have to be a nice smooth finish that’ll stand up to anything.
Suggestions?
Powder coating best finish for metal that’s what I’ve used on 3 of my panels and a couple of bottom panels
How do you go about powder coating? Do you need to clear coat a powder finish, and will it wear off with a lot of hands on?
For example, the finish on the metal underneath the art from a HRAP and MC SE, always wears off where I place my hands.
I just bought some red carbon fiber. I decided I’m not going to make this stick into some obnoxious project.