Sanding/scuffing it’s all the same. Red Scotch-Brite is the equivalent to 600 grit sand paper but easier to use because it doesn’t clog. I think green is like 800 grit. See, I don’t type this stuff to deceive.
LOL. Don’t think anyone said you were deceiving. Just best to follow the directions for the product.
Don’t go overkill on the scuffing of the case, you’re going to have to smooth that stuff out after applying the dye.
I got duplicolor “vinyl coating” today so before I even start and do something stupid I gotta ask: on one of the previous pages there was a step by step guide for using vinyl dye. Should I use that guide for the stuff I got or should I follow the paint guide?
its paint
It’s been about three weeks since i applyd duplicolor onto my te bezel. I let sit for about a week and have been using it since, roughly about 2 weeks of use and to my surprice it hasn’t rubbed off or chipped like the old krylon has. I did test were i took a knife and try’d to scrape it off and to my surprise it didn’t it Looks like it’s on there. I’am pretty happy with the end result unlike how with the krylon it rubbed after 1 hr of heavy use.
Can I spray gloss clear coat over the vinyl dye with no problems? Because I received my gloss black VHT dye and did a test patch, and was able to scrape off a bit down to white like the Plastikote. Yesterday I randomly ran across an autoparts store that had a bunch of colors of VHT dye, so I got satin black, and I was still able to lightly scrape off the dye down to white (after letting it dry for 24 hours). Now, I don’t intend to be scraping the sides of my finished TE with the likes of an xacto, but I would like the extra protection since it just seems like paint to me.
Well, are you actually shaving the dye or plastic off by any chance? Also, are you prepping it by cleaning all possible hand oils and other stuff from usage off? You need to make sure that plastic is clean before you spray it, or it won’t work.
Not only that but why are you only leaving it 24 hours before scraping? VHT is still paint, it still needs time to cure and harden. Like all paints, a week to be on the safe side.
I’m being very light with the scraping, but I thought the idea was that if it gets scratched, it is still black underneath.
I cleaned them with soap and warm water. Is there something better to use?
The main thing I need to know is, is clear coating okay?
The painting & art are done on my stick! This thread helped a lot with the painting process.
I just tried the gloss black Plastikote and VHT patches I did, which have sat for more than a week, with the same results.
Plastikote no longer make true vinyl dye.
Yeah but VHT does, so I’m curious why this is happening.
Brine, use an ammonia based cleaner like simple green to wipe the case after cleaning with soap and water. Then, try wiping it down with acetone/nail polish to soften the outside of the case, and then spray the dye on it. BTW, did you lightly scuff the surface? If you did, be sure to wipe it free of debris and dust and clean the case again. Something isn’t right. The VHT should soak into the plastic without a hitch.
I’ll give those things a try.
Since no one has answered, I’ll just assume I can spray it with a clear coat.
Oh yeah, you can spray it with a clear coat no problem. But see what happens after a thorough cleaning, see if the VHT soaks in. If not, clear coating won’t hurt.
I recently read this thread and i was wondering if Krylon or Vinyl dye work on a plastic that have putty on it??? The putty was used to fixed a few things here and there. The way I was taught to paint usually require prime, spray paint, and coated the old fashion way which takes a weeks to complete. From what I read about Krylon or Vinyl dye it only takes a few hours for each coat and no prep works were needed. Can someone enlighten me about those product. Thanks for the help. This was a mod I did awhile back. Check Out My New Arcade Stick! (No Image Quoting)
a couple posts back i mentioned i had the same problem. i cant vouch for the vinyl dye, and so i went the prime and paint route. i think the vinyl dye would work, but it would have discoloration from wherever there is putty. from the looks of your agetec mod, it seems like you know what to do for prime/paint. for me, the only thing i was able to acquire was rustoleum plastic primer and rustoleum flat red fabric and vinyl paint. i sanded the case, then lightly primed, sanded it a bit, painted a light coat, sanded a bit, and then emptied the can by applying light coats a few mins apart. like a broken record, the key is to apply a light coat, let it dry, and then repeat. i havent used the stick to test its durability yet, but so far im happy with the result; will post pics later today if wanted.
its been a year now since i painted mine and it still looks like the day i finished the build. no smearing the paint isnt coming off etc.etc.etc.
Small question, sorry if it’s been answered…
Do you think a regular can of VHT would be sufficient to dye TE wings/sides and bezel? I was thinking of doing something like 2 light coats, 2 medium coats on each wing… i’ve never painted anything so I’m not sure how much dye i’d need to do this project. I saw another user on youtube use a whole can per wing, but he did something like 8 coats. Is that really necessary?
Any tips would be appreciated, thanks Tech Talk!
Um, probably not. I managed to paint an entire SE case with 1 can of Kyrlon, I doubt it’s much different to use VHT. Someone else managed to paint a whole case, too.
You should really use light coats and when it’s fully covered, leave it alone. Otherwise, you’ll end up wasting dye.