Well I had to settle with Krylon Fusion since I couldn’t find any Vinyl dye.
I finished painting my stick around 12 o’clock last night, and let it dry in my garage over night. It turned out pretty
good actually, looks nice and smooth. I did a total of 18 or so layers (Is that too much ? lol)
Anyways, it’s a nice, hot day outside right now so I let it sit in the hot sun for now. Is it okay if I just leave it out there ? The hot weather wont affect the paint would it ?
Also, is Clear Coat a must? I couldn’t find any clear coat yesterday so I just had to settle with my Krylon. If I do buy clear coat later this week, I can just apply 2 layers with no problems right ? Just wondering if
it’s not too late to apply clear coat.
I’ll post pics next Sunday since it takes 7 days for it to be chip resistant lol.
For the most part it’s your choice. People put clear coats over kyrlon because it does not exactly penetrate like the dye does, and it can wear/scratch easier. It does “clog” the surface on the molecular level more or something like that. Its for protection. To answer your question, it’s generally not a good idea to leave a painted object in the sun.
While bummed out and desperate about the blue on my top, case and buttons not matching i had an idea to paint a clear Sanwa bubbletop in the same color that I used on the case. The first light coat produced an awesome “deeper” blue-ish bubble top, to my surprise! OF COURSE when trying to give it a tiny bit more to perfect it, I screwed up royally and made it too opaque…but it was nice at first. It didn’t have the same gloss feel as the originals, any ideas on that, besides using a glossy dye/paint to begin with?
Here are a few shots showing it next to the “sky blue” bubble top. This is after I put too much on:
Ehhh i went and used the Rustoleom Vinyl and fabric, and then i found out it isnt TRUE vinyl dye. Its a bit rough feeling, and the drips dont seep in like normal dye, Although its only been a few hours. But it still looks sweet, heres a pic
Here’s the result of mine.
I used Krylon Fusion, and the result was pretty good actually. I’m satisfied with the end result, and
I’m loving my new stick
Ha Ha, sweet idea. The best method would be to do a few coats of the red, lets them cure, use some good paint/masking tape in the design of your stripe (cheap tape may allow paint lines to bleed)
then finish in black.
I personally used vinyl dye , alot of people use krylon or simular, plastic paint. If you ever use paint though, you won’t be able to properly use vinyl dye.
Ok, and one more question. I’ve read through this thread and I’m still a little confused. What is REAL vinyl dye? I don’t want to paint it, I’d rather dye it, but everyone seems to have a different idea of what dye is.
anyone tried air brush with model kit paint yet? i just want to know because my friend does model kits and hes willing to paint mine using an air brush
Does anyone know if Krylon Fusion will stick to resins like Bondo? I have a case that I’m hoping to paint using Fusion but first it needs some minor damage repaired before I can start.
Hey guys, great thread! I’m wanting to change my SE stick from white to black but I can’t seem to find any online retailers that sell this Rustoleum Vinyl Dye stuff that is mentioned in this thread (that’s all I need right?)…can anyone help please?
I tried it and doesn’t work. Most model paint is enamel and only sticks to the plastic surface. It will chip after a while. Scale models usually don’t suffer from that because they’re not being man-handled like a fight stick would. Now, if you’re painting a wood case, it should work.
Hmm, I’m debating on which to use. I am very tempted on Krylon since my other half uses it for transformers and actually transforms the things. It doesn’t chip if you seal it properly.
Another forum I go on that deals with customization, they basically recommend pledge floor shiner stuff for sealing (You have to seal it well and be very careful but it’s a good sealant) and it’s so far worked on the TFs.
Little tip since I read you got paint on your hand after two days. You should probably let it settle for at least a week. And as one of the guys on said other forum stated: “If you think it is ready. It isn’t!” So don’t fingerprod it for a week and make sure you seal it XD.
Do not, ever, ever, ever, use Krylon. Your other half would say the same thing if he used vinyl dye even once. ;-;
There is absolutely no need to seal vinyl dye. It will never chip. It will never fade. It will never scratch. You ever bought something made in plastic? That factory paint? The way it’s perfectly painted all around and you know it will necer wipe off with sweat or rubbing? That’s what you can get with vinyl dye.
I made this thread as a cautionary tale for painting with Krylon. It was a debacle and took a 20 minute process into a two week process. Those transformers probably took a bunch of time to paint, dry, and be sealed and can be played with but not the hours a stick will have. Sealing anything is basically adding another layer of paint on it. Just clear paint. When you have your palm resting on your stick on paint, it will wear down over time. It will have to be rebuffed, retouched, repainted. It’s paint.
Dye stains the plastic, and then goes back to it’s original texture, sheen and gloss. It isn’t a layer of paint on top of something. There isn’t anything to wear away. It can be dyed multiple times in different colors for as much of an intense color as you want. You can oversoak a piece of the plastic until it’s dripping… and it will never leave drips. The stuff just dries as is into color. I really can’t pump the stuff up enough, it’s that fantastic. I am thinking of spraying my computer case and monitor and my Xbox 360 because it’s so braindead easy why wouldn’t I want to make my 360 rainbow colored when I don’t have to worry about it running, or having to sand something or buff it or apply clear coat?
My Krylon paint job looked great when I was done with it. But you end up wanting to baby it, because that stick will bump onto tables, on the ground. In your bag when you carry it, and will have oil, smears and prints all over it. You’ll notice weeks later after playing you’ll have paint on your palms. (Red in my case) rubbing off due to just having them there while playing. Eventually the spot under Vega’s face was completely white again. You’ll need to put clear coat on, and that’s yet another project to just protect this original paintjob. You might even have to put rubbing compound on it just to keep the glossy shine it had when it started.
…and wait a week without SF when it was dry on vinyl in an hour or two?
Everyone’s stick that I have seen with regular paint (which is all Krylon is) looks scratched up like it’s been to battle. It’s fine for models, figures and anything you might hang up on a wall or shelf. But if it’s going to be something I want to last forever with no babysitting, there just isn’t any other option. Everyone in this thread that has done it can show the evidence in their pictures and in the months since their projects have ended.
Best of wall, nothing stops you from putting clear coat on vinyl dye if you DO happen to enjoy that super shiny gloss (after massive buffing), but that’s on you to take care of it since it’s just paint. You’ll never be able to dye it again without massive sanding if you do.
I could scrape off a layer of my stick with a knife and it’ll probably still be red underneath it. XD Yet if I wanted a change of color, I just go white and do it again. It’s sick.
Hmmm, I think I’ll take your word on it, since I was worried about the chipping issue.
Now to find the dye in the colour I need XD I think aswell I was worried about screwing it up, I have plenty of experience with sprays since I help with the TFs and used to spray beyblades all the time, but dyes…hell no I wouldn’t know where to start so some thorough reading of the links you posted is needed on my part I think :3
I’m just not sure about how to go about turning black plastic…purple XD
What everyone fails to realize is that this stuff is NOT really dye. It does not seep into the plastic. It’s more like a very forgiving paint that levels out really well and goes on thin. That’s why you can “dye” black plastic white.
Timstuff:
Fusion does stick to bondo. Be mindful that you want to use the bondo sparingly because it’s prone to cracking when applied thickly and it’s even worse on flexible materials like plastic. I’ve used bondo on all of my stick projects. Here’s one… http://shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=135824&highlight=
