PS360+ is still has an 8 minute timeout
ps360+ is kind of redundant unless you want it for its retro console support.
Cthulhu is better in regard for Retro Console Support but the PS360+ has Xbox 360
There not many kit/modding boards that support Xbox 360.
I’m soon to be throwing in a XB360/1 MKX PDP PCB into my PS3/4 Stick, found someone to do the soldering for me, so hopefully will be starting that over the next week or two =D
Problem. My R1 button on my TE2 fails to input sometimes. I have tried fiddling around with the corresponding wire and it helps, but at some point it stops working again (sometimes mid match >_<)
Replace the sanwa sw-68 micro switch. It would be a good idea to order 8 while you’re at our, that way you have replacements for all your face buttons on hand.
Finally getting around to getting a new plexi. Costs $47.29 for shipping alone to import one from art so I’m probably going to get one from elsewhere. Foehammer sells a 1/8" plexi, and arcadeforge has a 3mm black plexi and 2mm clear plexi. Which one should I get and will they be better/worse than the ones from art? And will these fix the oily separation the stock 1/32" plexi gives on the USF4 TE2?
Just replaced the upper panel on my TE2. I noticed the controller number indicator light won’t come on but everything else works. Is it supposed to light up?
Color Bezels!
Only in PS3 mode I think
About a month ago I sent a support ticket to MadCatz about the TE2’s plexi. Without any sort of notice, I got a package from them today which had a new sheet of plexiglass in it. I compared it to the old stock one, and unfortunately, it’s still the dumb 1/32" version. So for those of you who might try your luck to fish a 1/16" one out of Mad Catz, sorry, but it looks like they’re only giving out the weak thin ones, and you should just go to Art’s Hobbies if you can’t stand the stock one.
tek innovation , 1/16 = 1.588 mm
arcadeforge , clear 2 mm / black 3mm
foehammer ,1/8 = 3.175 mm
i need too , change plexi but
in my taste, i dont like 1/32 is too thin (like original plexi) , dont like too 1/8 is too fat
i think, the best is tek innovation but shipping for €urop are too much expensive
arcadeforge is just 6,08€ , so i’m little confused what choose between this 2 lol
I had created a couple of support tickets for the plexi, and also the metal panel (gamerfinger buttons don’t fit properly into the metal panels, so even w/ art’s hobbies plexi, they wiggle left and right). the best response I got was “send it in and we’ll do something about it”… I’d rather not.
I got cardboard cutouts to fill the gaps between the button and the button hole on the metal panel. good to go.
I’ve got the exact same thing. Combined with the shifting plexi & a stick that frequently “pops”. I logged a ticket /w Mad Catz over a month ago. Best I got was a “parts approved” reply on 7/22. It’s been a month and I haven’t seen any updates or a response to my latest inquiry over 2 weeks ago. I can only assume they are still assessing the issues and having new parts fabricated to address. In the meantime the stick sits in the box.
Hey all, does anyone here have a scan of the Noir panel that MadCatz sells? Not sure if this would be allowed in the first place, but I would love to have that clean black artwork with a Vewlix layout!
Finally got my Rivals TE2 home from SDCC this week! 
Didn’t wanna open what I could keep sealed mint brand new so…
Just a heads up that the following parts from the XBOne KI TE2 are compatible:
[list]
[*] Spare Buttons Foam Insert
[*] Screwdriver Tool Foam Insert
[*] Screwdriver Tool
[*] Buttons’ Wire Harness
[*] USB Cord (the nice thing about the XBOne one is that it has that nice cord break just in case you kick the cord with your leg)
[*] LED PCB (but as others have commented in this thread LED’s will be always on)[/list]
I know some of the above is terribly obvious, but hopefully its good intel for some folks.
Got
I tried the 1/8 from foehammer and it made the bezel higher than the rest of the panel. However, I emailed old man foehammer and he offered to send me a 1/16 free of charge to try just now. I guess its worth contacting foehammer about a 1/16 plexi to see if you can buy one or get them to offer it on the site.
To be honest, I’ve heard of several others including myself who have had this type of issue. In every case I know of it was resolved by replacing the cord. You can put in a ticket with MadCatz if you are the original owner, or simply order a MadCatz ProCable (see MLG ProCable on Ebay or Amazon). The ProCable MadCatz sends as a replacement is the MLG type, and has a braided cord so it’s more sturdy to boot. I know of no one where the actual PCB or proprietary connector was to blame, it was just defective cables which are relatively cheap to replace. As for why they couldn’t just use a stock USB cable plug (normal, micro, or mini) for their connector… that’s another story.
Be careful when removing the buttons on your te2, the tabs seem to break incredibly easily, getting some red and yellow sanwa buttons to replace them as I’m printing some stick art fairly soon. Hopefully it won’t happen again…
That isn’t a TE2 problem but a common issue with Snap In buttons