Official USFIV/GGXrd/P4U TE2 Thread

Just re-checked no wires or anything blocking the hinges and yes it is about 1/8" of being flush with the side panels.

Anyone know if a Japanese TE2 will work on a NA console?

I don’t see any reason why it shouldn’t. It is the same stick, after all.

Yes, it will work. There is no region coding for these particular accessories.

Speaking of popping, maybe there’s a better way to articulate this but my joystick on the xrd stick kind of pops when I move it upward if that makes any sense, moving it around is not a smooth as it should be. Anything I can do about this?

check to see if the joystick wire harness is not being grinded by the joystick itself when turning it around and if it is just put a zip tie from the wires of the joystick to the button wires just like it was shown on a picture a few post back

I have a Japanese TE2 stick and it works with the NA PS4, it was well worth every penny spent.

Unfortunately that doesn’t seem to be the case, I made sure the wires weren’t doing that, and even with the case open it still nudges and pops. It’s not always when I go up, I guess it depends where it’s rotated.

http://tinypic.com/r/10xvscp/8

That might sound like I’m hitting the gate but that’s before it even clicks. Very annoying. :expressionless:

Maybe it’s the second dust cover that’s making the sound or something stuck, did you take it apart and check things out?

I know exactly how this feels. One of my sticks does this and it annoyed/still annoys me, but I can’t really figure out why it does it.

If it’s not the colored wire bundle resting under the joystick shaft upon closing, then I have a good idea what this could be. Open up your stick fully and get a flashlight to look at the very center of the underside of the joystick. As you move the stick around from the back you will see the actuator (black circle) hitting the 4 red switches for U, D, L, R. Right behind the red switches is a circular metallic washer. As you move the stick around a bit trying to repeat the action that makes the “clicking/popping” be looking at that washer to see if it is moving at all. If it’s what I think it is, the washer is moving slightly out of it’s recess in the plastic at times when you press a direction - especially if you push it repeatedly to the same side will some pressure (think dashing motions). The “pop” you are hearing and feeling may be the washer moving out of place then sliding back into place. In new sticks with fresh lube the washer is free to move around until the lube dries and seals it in place. As you move the stick, one side of the washer may come up and “jump” the recess where it is sitting, making the stick feel like it has an extra click or something like a “pop” as the washer relocates back into the recess upon release.

Problem is over time… it may wear away at the plastic ridge of the recess, get to moving around even more, and possibly damage the underside of the circuit board like the “washer issue in the SE Sticks”. The Good News is there is a way to fix it, but it takes a little bit of knowledge in the disassembly/reassembly of your Joystick.

IF this is exactly what you SEE is occurring AND you are comfortable doing this procedure:

  1. Remove your stock Square Gate
  2. Remove the Switches and let them rest on the bottom of the stick compartment
  3. Remove the E-clip holding the Actuator in place (see video) (with the TE2, you may want to secure the Ball top in place on the other side of the stick with tape or something so it doesn’t just fall right out with the shaft when you get the e-clip off).
  4. Remove the spring, actuator, and spring base.
  5. Carefully remove the washer noting it’s orientation of which side was “up/facing you”.
  6. Flip the washer upside down and reassemble the joystick.

The washer should now be much less prone to jumping out of it’s “home”.

*** - Ok, since people are gonna think I’m nuts, if you look at the edge of a JLF washer very closely you can see that the washer is really a very elongated Trapezoid shape.
By default mine was installed with the shorter side down: ______/
Which made it easier for the washer to slide around and “jump” the edge of the recess.
Flipping it to Long side “down” in the recess: /_______\ resolved the issue for me).

Youtube some videos on Swapping actuators/springs to get an idea of what to do if you’ve never done this.

Or just ahead skip to 1:50 in this video to get an idea of what’s involved in getting the e-clip off and on again which is honestly the hardest part of all this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70PRLEBImIs

If all else fails, or you feel in over your head, I recommend putting in a support claim with Mad Catz.

hmmm didn’t know it could damage the circuit boards.
and in the stick that I have the same issue in is actually an upgraded SE (well, brawl stick actually)

Good info, thanks a mega-ton! It does look like this might be what’s happening, I’m gonna take a crack at it later tonight.

Anyone use tek-innovations plexi on their latest revision TE2?(Persona,Xrd,USFIV)? The old TE2 plexi was 1/8" in the center and 1/16" around the edges but the new one is all 1/32" and tek-innovations is 1/16", not sure how that will work with the bezel already being pretty flush with 1/16".
Also the metal panel is bigger than 30mm and using the spacer with a tek plexi will make the buttons higher than normal, maybe screw-ins will work fine without that spacer.

Previously, someone said they were having an issue with the provided screw driver tool (sorry, don’t feel like quoting)? I think I’m having that same issue after trying to loosen my ball top using the flat-head side of the tool. The grip on the tool no longer holds the hex/flat-head pole in place properly. I can still use it to take off the bezel (thank god) but I can’t use it for the side panel. The pole now spins inside of the grip when I try to use it to loosen the side panel screws.

Does this work on PC? The PS3/PS4 version? Will they ever be available at fry’s or gamestop? I remember buying my TE1 there. When will it be available again?

Yes, the PS4/PS3 version works perfectly for me on my PC (Win 8.1 64)

Popping, maybe he got an LS-32 in his stick, and not a JLF?

/kappa

Washer didn’t look that way at all so I just took it out all together, and it appears to be all good now. Many thanks. :slight_smile:

After putting it all back together, the stick seems a tiny bit looser in it’s neutral state but it’s working great. All that matters.

It’s nice that you got your stick working now also if you don’t like the looser feel of the stick focus attack sells a 2lb spring for the jlf to replace the one you have and it will make it a lot stiffer.