^ the same thing happened to me. I think it’s toast 
Connect it to a PC in joystick mode, go into the Properties of that controller in the Game Controllers applet. Check if moving the stick and pressing buttons shows up in the properties window, or if the buttons are all dark, or all lit, etc.
(Thinking that the force 360 buttons wont work if the alignment was knocked out keeping the Strike from seeing any inputs.)
All of the buttons work properly in PC mode.
Are you still making these?
Unfortunately I am not, I’m putting my focus elsewhere right now. I just don’t have the time to keep this project up currently. Expect a revamp in spring though.
If you want the solderless install you can always snag a Kitty TE from Toodles.
<edit>nvm resolved.
Looks like this thread hasn’t been active in a while, and I hope that someone is still listening. I’m currently experiencing the same problem as ocelotyouth, where the stick is not being recognized on the PC or 360. I’ve tried searching all over the TEasy and Dual Strike threads, but didn’t find any solution to this. Was a solution ever found to this problem?
What I’ve tried:
- Attach to an 360 holding MP: The XBox Guide Button LEDs blink quickly for a split second, but remain off. The XBox LED ring (that shows connected controllers) remains black showing no controller is detected.
- Attach to a Windows 7 PC holding HK: The XBox Guide Button LEDs blink quickly for a split second, but remain off. The Hardware Installation bubble appears and states the device could not be installed. Device Manager shows the fight stick as a “Other Device” with the “!” icon on it. This states there is no driver selected for the device. In the Game Controllers menu in Control Panel, the only listed device is “Virtual Hid Device”. When attempting the Properties “Test” with the fight stick, there is no input coming from the controller.
- Reflashing the firmware with 3.3.1: Holding Start and connecting the stick to a PC, the device is recognized as a input device. I am able to run the “update_firmware_atmega168.bat” script. The script re-flashes the stick with no error, however the same symptoms as above are still present.
- Swapping Fight Stick Controller PCB: I was thinking the Fight Stick controller PCB may have been hosed, so I had took the Fight Stick controller PCB from a spare working fight stick I had and replaced it onto the TEasy. The same symptoms are still occurring with the replaced board, which lead me to believe it’s not an issue with the Fight Stick’s Controller board.
Observations:
- I believe the punch terminals are good because power is being supplied to my Sparky Jr. with Arc Eyes 2 board. Pressing the buttons still light things up accordingly.
- The XBOX Guide button only flashes for a split second each time the controller is connected, but never remains on. This occurs in all instances I’ve connected the controller to the XBOX or PC.
- I’ve checked the Pin points from TEeasy that they are connected properly to the fight stick PCB. I have made multiple attempts to reseat it and make sure it was correct.
- This problem first started about 6 months ago, at which point I simply stopped using the fight stick. Finally just got around to it now to try and fix it.
If anyone is still out there, I can really use your help. Thanks!
@jaydangel ok it seems that either the problem is with the actual fightstick PCB, which means that it could be fried or that it might be somethwrong with Ready (i had the same problem with mine nit being recognized on anything and i couldn’t even reflash the firmware on Ready). Try disconnecting everything and having only the fightstick PCB hooked up just like a fighstick with no mods and plug in your fightstick to see if it works like that. This way you can rule out whether its the fighstick PCB or not. Talk to clayton (clayton@phreakmods.com) and tell him about your Situation. He replaced mine when i had this problem.
Jaydangel - Try running the configuration editor and make sure everything is enabled.
I’ve seen it be reflashed yet not retain some of the default information… not sure why though.
Plug your stick into your PC with SELECT held down after you run the configuration editor, the RED light at the bottom right should turn GREEN. Then download the current info, set everything as you like and reupload it to the device. After that, try on your PC with HK held down to verify it comes up as the dual strike again.
You got it right! Your solution worked perfect Phreakazoid! Thanks a lot!
Nevermind, I just went and re clipped a couple of the pins on the bottom and plugged it back in and all is well
Spoiler
Hey Phreak… I’m trying to update the firmware and not having any luck getting the PC to recognize it in Firmware update mode (holding start on usb insert)
When i start in PC mode it sees all the buttons properly, they all register when pressed. One strange thing is, the home button (button 13) stays lit in the game controller configuration.
If I hold MP to get pass-through mode the device never registers as being plugged in.
Holding LP it gets registered but has no diver for Dual Strike V3.2.0 (XBox)
MAME mode registers fine
I can enter configuration mode, but still no Firmware update mode.
EDIT: Just tried the stick on my 360 and it doesn’t work either…
My Teasy strike isn’t working anymore. Occasionally shows up as a TE when I plug it into PC but never as anything else. All the buttons worked fine when it shows up as a TE. Tried reflashing the firmware on it but it says device not found when I plug it in while holding the start button.
My friend recently put a TEasy Strike S into his stick and is having some issues so I offered to help, but I can’t figure it out.
In 360 mode, Up and Left don’t register but everything else does. In forced PC mode, every button registers fine including Up and Left directions. I’ve re-seated the 360 pcb a couple of times and checked the leads on the bottom and everything looks fine. Any tips for helping me troubleshoot this?
You’ll want to grab a DMM and measure the voltages on the affected pins compared to the unaffected ones, I’m guessing you may have to do the pull up resistor trick if this is only affecting the 360 side.
So do the following:
- Both boards clipped, measure the pin voltages on the affected and 1 unaffected signal. Do this in both modes.
- Unclip the 360 board from the TEasy, and plug in the TEasy to the PC by itself, measure the same pins voltages.
- Pull the pogos from the 2 affected signals, leave the rest in place. Re-clip the boards together and do 1 again (you should see a different voltage on the affected signals).
For 3, you can just pull the pogos with your finger tips, they come out easy.
Results behind spoilers. It’s worth noting that for step 2, nothing responded in the joystick controller panel applet thing. Thanks for all the help!
Spoiler
Affected (UP), 360 - 4.8, 0.00v
Unaffected (DOWN), 360 - 3.65, 0.00v
Affected (UP), PC - 4.8, 0.00
Unaffected (DOWN), PC - 3.65, 0.00v
Affected (UP) - 4.8, 4.8v
Unaffected (DOWN) - 3.65, 3.65v
Affected (UP), 360 - 4.8, 4.8v
Unaffected (DOWN), 360 - 3.65, 0.00v
Affected (UP), PC - 4.8, 4.8v
Unaffected (DOWN), PC - 4.1, 0.00v
For #3, it looks like you measured the TEasy pins when the pogos were pulled, correct? Just going based on this: Affected (UP), 360 - 4.8, 4.8v where it doesn’t go to 0 when pressed.
Can you measure the voltages on the 360 board’s signals instead when doing this (you should be able to just poke the top of the metal pins of the JST connector plugged into the 360 board)? Those would be a little more helpful in that case, step 1 won’t change, step 2 won’t change (auto-detection on PC isn’t great for the dual strike firmware, thus the “hold HK for PC”), but step 3 we should see a difference in voltages.
It almost looks like the signals for the 360 side are simply shot, but try the above again first before we make any assumptions.
Haha yeah, whoops, yesterday was a long day. Here’s what step 3 looks like when I take all measurements from the JST:
Affected (UP), 360 - 0.00, 0.00v
Unaffected (DOWN), 360 - 3.65, 0.00v
Affected (UP), PC - 0.00, 0.00v
Unaffected (DOWN), PC - 4.1, 0.00v
So yeah, looks like there’s nothing across those pins. Is the 360 pcb shot?
Bump, any ideas? I was thinking about the last test I ran and in theory we shouldn’t see anything across any pins that don’t have pogos, right? Since those pins aren’t connected to VCC by nature of not being connected to the TEasy Strike if my understanding is correct? I feel like there’s something I’m missing though. I can re-run the first two tests for high confidence if you want as well, but I double checked the pogo removed test and there’s definitely nothing across either af the affected signals (both of which have their pogos removed).
Yeah but if you removed a pogo from a different unaffected signal you’d see a voltage. This is party because of the “golden rules” for dual modding where all PCBs must be powered. What happens is that the MCU of the 360 board internally pulls the signals high for simple “low active” usage with button because it’s simply powered, allowing for both boards to be connected together without interfering with each other.
Sorry for the delay in response, I’m trying to think of something you can try without soldering and coming up short since I don’t think the pull up trick will help you.
If you want absolute verification that the 360 side is simply going out you could remove the TEasy and resolder the USB cable to the original board, taking voltage measurements on the previous affected pins. If you do go that route, turn the board upside down and measure the voltage on the two gold pads that are next to where the directional shrouded header is soldered (BE11-BE14 they are labeled on the board I’ve got in front of me). There’s 4 of them, with 2 pads each, measure the two pads on the effected signals.
Yeah, I was thinking about giving that a shot since it’ll give me verification of whether or not the 360 board is shot.
I just took a good look at the underside of the board to identify the pads you were referring to and I found something worrisome. It looks like a couple of components near the directional signals broke off somehow. Here’s a picture of what I’m referring to:
