The missing components is pretty normal. Try to resolder the cable, my guess is you’ll find that the signals are just shot 
On another note, I’m being lazy right now and don’t want to make a specific thread. Anyone looking to get a TEasy, I don’t make them anymore. They are being replaced by the Cerberus, all the info can be found here: http://www.phreakmods.com/products/cerberus
I’ll have a full thread up at some point.
Looking clean man, nice job!
Resoldered the USB cable back on last night and I’m testing it now. The directions still don’t work but the voltage from each of the pads to ground is 3.2V, but the affected signals don’t drop to 0 when actuated. The other two do.
So you’re saying that the gold pads have a voltage of 3.2v, but don’t go to 0 when actuated by the JLF?
Can you verify that the voltage is retained on the actual solder joint of the JST header as well (silver solder joint)? I can’t imagine why, but perhaps the trace somehow got b0rked between those test points and the actual harness attachment.
Secondary test, take a piece of wire (solder it to a ground point to make it easy on you) and touch the other end to the gold pads that show a voltage (or if the first test shows a voltage on the solder joints, just use that). See if it registers as being actuated in the controller app on PC.
Is the voltage on the unaffected pins still 3.65?
Yes, the other two directions are also at 3.2v at the pads (just double checked) and those both go to 0 when the JLF actuates their respective directions.
Winner! The affected signals are showing 0 volts at the header solder joints.
Yep, putting a wire across GND and each pad correctly registers each direction in the controller app. For fun I tested the solder joints from the header and the “dead/affected” (0v) did not register on the controller app while the other two did register.
Is there any way to salvage it to still use the Teasy Strike?
Thanks again for all of the help!
Oh… well wow that’s a new one. It’s possible that your buddy scraped the trace with the pogo or something…
Well, that’s not a tough fix, what you can do is run a small wire from the gold pads to the silver solder joints they normally correspond to if you’re soldering skills are OK. That’s the easiest way to fix that it would seem to me and basically allow you to put the setup back to the full dual mod.
What you can do now before/after is basically put your DMM into continuity testing mode (where it beeps if the signal is connected) and touch the gold pads and the solder joints. It should not beep now (as the voltage testing showed), but give you a beep after you make the jumper.
Yeah, I can solder well enough, I just wasn’t sure if the pcb would sit in the pogos well enough with a wire coming out of that joint. I’ll give it a shot tonight or tomorrow and report back. Thanks again!
I’m having problems with this in ps3 mode i bought it a few months back wanted to make sure it was working right before SJ and my buttons arent working right after holding LK buttons are not in the proper order compared to just letting it go in to normal TE stick, if some one can help me ASAP!!
360
X – 3
A – 1
Y – 4
B – 2
RB – 6
RT – 10
LB – 5
LT – 9
START – 8
SELECT – 7
PS3 - LK -
X – 1
A – 2
Y – 4
B – 3
RB – 6
RT – 8
LB – 5
LT – 7
START – 10
Select – 9
thats actually the right order, the numbers don’t match up
ohh ok. the last time i used it on ps3 it was acting funky because of me holding mp and never got to test it out again on a ps3 and i just assumed it as still all fucked up because the numbers didnt match . Thanks!!
Anyone here have a Teasy installed? Mines was installed for a few yrs now and just started acting up. When plugged into the ps3 the xbox lights keeps flashing. When I plug it into the xbox360 it doesnt do anything no lights nothing cant even use it as a controller. When plugged into the PC its not recognized so I cant reflash. If any of you had this problem before and know of a way to fix this issue please let me know.