Hello.
Does the TEasy Strike ONLY work for installation on an Xbox 360 TE stick? Or can you also try to install it on a PS3 TE while just losing some capabilities?
There is no point in installing these boards in a PS3 TE stick. For a start it will not be solderless, and the PS3 TE/SE stick motherboard is located under the Turbo panel (360 motherboards are near the Microphone jack).
If your PS3 TE motherboard is faulty, then first try getting a replacement from Mad Catz. If that fails, then install a Dual Strike v2 or a PS3 Cthulhu. For PS3 & 360 support, install a PS360 board.
Hey, glad you got everything up and running. Closing the case back up can sometimes be a pain in the ass with the QD wires on the right side of the stick, but once it’s closed they’ll form to where they’re put and next time you open things up it won’t be as bad.
I look forward to seeing the video, keep me posted!
Unfortunately the TEasy Strike is designed to ONLY work with the 360 PCB that’s in the 360 TE sticks. There’s no way to install it into a PS3 TE, and it really wouldn’t do much good anyway as the TEasy Strike is a PS3 controller itself, so you’d be removing PS3…only to put it back in >.<.
Thanks for the kind words by everyone else who’s posted up. I’m glad the experience has been good for you, and things are really picking up on my end in various aspects…not just modding but life too. I’m doing my best to keep up with support, but I really appreciate people chiming in to help others who’ve got questions while I’m not around, so thank you guys :tup:.
PhreakMods should have it’s second product announcement soon here, probably mid-week if things go according to plan.
Without searching through the thread because of limited time. Is there any pictures of the TEasy in a SE case?
Edit: I did a quick search and found a really cleaned one in the thread, I am just trying to figure out how it will look in the SE ( Vanilla with a revision B board that was sent from Madcatz).
This is lockless now back with my legacy name witebuddha.
I was putting together a video for installing a TEasy Strike into an SE, but I ran into issues with the case when I did. It started smooth but I found the case is kind of a pain to work with.
The main issues are:
- The standoffs are too tall, even if everything screwed in great the first time, you can’t close the case as everything sticks out too far
- The bottom right standoff (if looking at it from the back with cord up), is extended so that it may fit inside a larger hole on the SE PCB. This hole isn’t big enough on the TEasy
- The headset standoff interferes with the length of the TEasy Strike
How I got around these issues was to
A) Cut the standoffs down about an inch each (1 1/8 inch for the bottom right standoff since that is already a bit extended).
B) Remove the interfering headset standoff (only 1 of them)
Note that the standoffs need to be cut down the same length so that its level (MAKE SURE ITS LEVEL). 2 of the stand offs are longer than the other 2 so be sure you measure from the top. Luckily the hole remains for the length of the standoff, so i didnt have to redrill screw wholes for the TEasy.
A Dremel is perfect for this… me? I hacked at it with horizontal clippers… amateurish I know, but I messed around with it too long before deciding what to do, and I don’t own a Dremel set. I as able to level mine and the TEasy Strike WORKS GREAT in it.
I took it to UFGT7 this weekend and had 0 issues, totally worth the effort.
Note also you may be able to save the headset standoff by shaving off enough to fit the board in (you will see what I mean when you try)… But I don’t really use a headset and the port is still there. Just a tad bit flimsy since it only has one support.
Here is a pic, note that the headset standoff is just modded here, not removed and it looks terrible because this is BEFORE i evened it out a bit with clippers. Sorry about the hack job.
But hey… it works 
Awesome, thank you for the write up. I’m sure it will help a lot of people out.
I’ll link that up in the OP as well as on my site so people have a reference.
Also, you went to UFGT? Did you stop by our table and say hi to Gummy and I?
You guys were a tad bit out of sight :o I honestly had no idea you were around until I wandered into the food area on Sunday, a couple of guys were in the corner talking to people and I didn’t know if you were actually… you… or some guys that worked for you
I’m gonna have to come by next time you have a booth and say Hi
Hey Clatyon,
Just giving a status check since got the boards that you sent out and I did some checks on the computer, everything is run just fine. Hopefully it stays that way this time haha. Thanks for all your help
How do I go about ordering one of these and how much do they cost, I can’t find any infomation on this anywhere! 
It’s on the original post. There is a link to his site to order.
They’re all sold out.
Seems every dual mod PCB is sold out everywhere.
man…when they are back in stock i’ll order like 5…
Working on getting a re-stock, they’re being fabbed now actually. Assembly only takes like 3 days to get done. I’m hoping they’ll be ready for sale end of next week but I won’t know for sure until I call them early next week.
Just a head’s up, because of sheer stupidity (and based on the time it took to sell the last batch) I ordered a smaller amount of S versions, quite smaller actually so if you want an S version sign up for the email list and hop on that real quick.
Should have lots of Round 1/2 versions though.
I want an S version! Consider me signed.
Edit: emailed!
[S]I installed my board a few months ago when I first ordered it and I didn’t notice this issue until now because I only ever used the joystick in d-pad mode. Everything else works fine, but the LS/DP/RS selector switch won’t work when I plug it into my 360. I can only use the D-pad input. It works perfectly fine when I plug it into the PS3, as I can navigate through the XMB with LS and DP, but not RS. I did all of post-installation steps including updating the firmware, and double checked to make sure I have Active Low Joystick Switch Reading set.[/S]
[S]It’s not a deal-breaker, but I’m thinking this must be something super simple that I must have somehow missed when installing it.[/S]
Edit: Figured it out! Apparently the 360 dashboard and the LS input of MadCatz sticks don’t play well together. I’m willing to bet it has something to do with the deadzone that’s programmed into the dashboard to make sure accidental nudges, or sticks on pads that are worn down don’t go bonkers in the dashboard. When using the LS/DP/RS selector on LS, it likely falls just within that deadzone range as an analog input so that it’s not possible to navigate the dashboard. Tried it in game and everything works like a charm. Thanks again Phreak for a wonderful product!
I plugged it into my PC without holding HK, how do i fix this? <—complete noob
-edit
Okay nevermind, so when its in PC mode, the xbox guide button doesn’t light up right?
I have modded several SE cases
- Wii + Ch1mp + XBOX
- XBOX + Cthulhu
- Paewong
These cases are great to work with given the affordance of room in them.
I ended up dremmelling off the existing standoffs and the plastic epoxied new ones in where i needed them
here is an example of the Wii + Sparky tri mod, notice i even created a new PCB for start and select
Very clean, I like it.
I also like the idea about just cutting off the standoffs and using epoxy to put them wherever you need them. I may be modding a friend of mine’s and this seems to be the way to go.
do i have to hold HK EVERYTIME i plug it on a PC? or just a one time deal (after installation)
Corect, same as PS3 mode.
It will technically auto-detect to PC mode, but unfortunately due to the way the dual strike communicates over USB PC auto-detection can be wonky and you might have to try multiple times. That’s why I just recommend holding HK, it only takes a second and it gives definite results.