Tried again. Everything is tightened extra snug; green/white are doubled over as above. No change. Still “usb device not recognized”.
I’m really wondering if the data lines didn’t get fucked up when I had to re-snug the USB flute and pull more slack out of it.
The only thing that seems to make a difference is when I loosened the data connection screws and it started doing the continuous pop up of unrecognized usb device.
The first thing on my mind here as a complete neophyte with circuit boards and usb is “ok, so if it’s constantly powered and it’s only the data connection being lose that causes the drop off/pop up, why is it not showing as the correct device when the connections are constant?”
I did use purple arms method with the lighter this time as well, so my wires are a little singed, but I can’t see how a little bit of singed wires could fuck up the data connection so it’s not recognized by PC or anything else.
FUCK. If only I could have gotten that chip out.
Edit:
Tried AGAIN… still shows as a constant unknown device. I don’t have an extra USB cable I can chop up anywhere either – and even if I could, how the hell do you end up replacing the stock cable, flute and all? I don’t even want to think about that…
Edit 2:
One more thing – I tried playing with a multimeter.
VCC to ground – 5.17v
Green to VCC – 5.15v
White to VCC – 2.17v
Green to White – 2.98/2.99v (seems to flux by .01v)
This was measuring v with setting 20v.
Edit 3:
I’d taken this picture before the measurements above (when I reconnected and confirmed). I did this using the method above with a small flathead screwdriver.
One more thing – I’ve wired everything up, as per Phreak’s original suggestion, and plugged into PC while holding mp – device was still not recognized. Not a good sign… definitely shows that the DS board isn’t connected properly due to something.
OK hold on, don’t panic. You’ve still got a few options. I told you we’d get you up and running and we will, have faith.
If you want to eliminate the possibility that something in the USB cable got messed up (which isn’t unheard of), just find another USB cable you don’t care about and cut off the B end. Pull the DS out of the TE entirely, hook the new cable to it and test it out on it’s own. Make sure your connections are solid and clean.
To replace a cable wouldn’t be terribly difficult in the least, once the B end is cut off, just thread it through the stock hole…honestly you can leave out the choke (flute). If you really want to keep it by all means do but I don’t think it’s necessary in the least.
I’m almost 100% certain it will work. I have a feeling the wires have just been abused to the point it’s no longer a good connection down the cable, and perhaps singing them with the lighter has left residue which would hinder a connection (not unheard of, I got yelled at in electronics lab for doing that for that very reason).
My OCD has problems with destroying cables I normally use for something – I have a USB to mini USB cable (short, wouldn’t be able to use it for full replacement, just to test the board) and I can’t bring myself to destroy something I use and would need to replace if I have to replace the stock USB cable anyway. I mean, I did move the flute again, but I wish there was some way I could check the integrity of the stock cable before I gave up on it completely and put myself through trying to buy a new cable for replacement purposes. In theory, I could try fresh cuts to the 4 wires, but I’m not sure how much more of the cable I can pull back in through from the outside. Also, I wasn’t that rough with the USB cable, I can’t see how I would have messed up the USB cable.
What bothers me the most? Instead of persistence (as I tried the first time), where I managed to get the data cables to connect after stripping with a 22 gauge stripper and not folding them at all (only to have the chip have that quirk), I decided I should follow the suggestion of folding the USB wires for the data connection and using a lighter and I’ve not had any success yet.
Is there anything I can check voltage wise with the multimeter to confirm that the USB cable is toast?
Also, if I have to order a long ass usb cable to replace the stock one (if that’s what it comes to), any place you suggest? Does it have to be something that has that strange cylinder connector? or just a regular long USB cable will work? Any specific gauge? Length not to exceed? etc.
I’m going to bed. I’ll see if I have time to try again tomorrow during the day.
MP sets the DS into pass-through mode, thus the TE PCB does not have a good connection.
Which firmware does the DS have? For 3.1 (the current one) please try pressing HK on plugging in, this will set it to PC mode. For the older firmwares press LK on plugging in. Does this work?
The thing is that MadCatz installs the USB cables with bad bends. Are you already using parts of the cable that initially where outside? Otherwise I’d cut it that short, as then the hardest bends are off.
You could measure the resistance of the data lines through the USB cable, but that does only say something if the resistance is really high - then the cable is broken.
Nope.
Right, but note the longer the cable the higher the risk for a bad connection. So for testing purposes I really recommend using a short cable.
just received mine…attempted the install, and thought everything went smoothly until i went to plug it in…wouldnt power up…every pin checked out with the multimeter just fine, usb install seems solid, and when i went to check the TEasy, i notice its the 1.2 version…i have the SSF4 TE-S Stick…im assuming it wont work…i thought i ordered the 1.0, but i guess the drop down menu defaulted back to the 1.2…is there anyway to get the 1.2 to work on the SSF4 stick, or do i have to buy the 1.0 board?
please let me know… you can email me directly at miikeyboii@tmo.blackberry.net , or call/text me directly at 3059789585 …thanks in advance
(1) I don’t think that matters – what I was getting at with that was that the connection (usb) to the DS board didn’t seem to be correct because the DS wasn’t passing the signal to the TE PCB. I think it goes along with the fact that the 360 guide button just flashes all 4 quadrants when plugged into a PS3.
(2) One of my thoughts for today was to cut the stock usb cable again and pull the outside portion in, so that I’m using anything after the inline… “converter”/“flute” (?)… thingie. This would definitely remove the inside portion that would have possibly experience a break during the movement of the moveable choke and such (wrapping around pegs, etc.). This way I’d possibly have an intact cable that was still long and not have to go find a replacement cable.
(3) Ok, I totally want to check resistance for the data lines, as you mention. I set the multimeter to ohms. Then what? What scale do I want the readout to be on? Where do I touch the red/black probles to check this? D+ and D-? Or do I check each D+ and D- with common ground? Or something else perhaps?
(4) The question on cable length was trying to figure out, if I had to entirely replace the stock cable, what a good maximum cable length would be for both optimum signal quality (to avoid signal degradation due to cable length) as well as maximum playability (so I don’t have to sit within 2 feet of the consoles. Might be a moot point if I can try and succeed by altering the stock cable mentioned in (2).
Additionally, I’m wondering, if I do go ahead and pull the outside cable into the TE stick, is there any recommended path to route the wire once it’s pulled in, that would be great to know… minimal use of pegs, I’d assume, in the least.
So here are some video tutorials about testing resistors. You want to do exactly the same. Measure the resistor value of the D+ wire from start to the end of the cable. Cable is ok, when all wires (D+, D-, GND, 5V) have a resistor value of 0.
Then measure all wires from start of cable to the top of the screw terminals. All connections are ok, when resistor value on all wires is 0.
No worries, shit happens. I’ll gladly exchange the one you’ve got with an S version. We’ll figure the details via PM later today when i have a minute. If you got it clipped in, it’s more than likely off on it’s power points so that’s why your top LED’s aren’t showing up, etc.
Does your DS board work by itself? As in, disconnect the ribbon cable and plug it into the PC, does it show up as the Dual Strike? Even if the TEasy is the wrong version you should still have PS3/PC functionality via the DS.
Pulling some of the stock cable through and re-trying wouldn’t be a bad idea, start there.
Multimeter stuff, to check continuity set it to the little diode icon, you’ll know you’re on the right setting if you touch the two probes together and it beeps at you. If you’re going down that route, screw in your usb cable and check continuity between each of the screw terminal posts, make sure there’s not a short between them. If you don’t find a short, you can try to check if your cable wires are good by doing the same continuity checking, just with the ends of the USB cable.
edit: DON’T DO THIS WHILE IT’S PLUGGED IN, and I hope you haven’t been unscrewing/rescrewing everything while it’s still plugged into your PC/PS3
If you end up taking my advice and cutting up a spare USB cable and finding it works, just go to Wal-Mart or Targer and buy a generic USB cable and you should be fine, I don’t know what the length of the stock TE cable is but you could try to match that and I’m sure it would be fine.
Ok, took the plunge – snipped the stock cable on the console end of the outside in-line flute. I’ve got it snaked in – when I have some time later tonight, I’ll feed it through the hand-feed choke (to prevent accidental outside tugging from yanking the cable out), strip, and try the connection. In theory, the stock cable should be fine on the outside of the stick, as until yesterday, I’d never even un-twist-tied that part of the cable.
yup, everything checks out perfectly when i unplug the ribbon, just got the wrong board …it would be awesome to see if we can work something out, this one was a test for me to see if i can do it, and it was successful, just ordered the wrong board
yeah just a note to everyone… I use the lighter trick only if those nylon strands are present in the usb wires… it varies from stick to stick… and I pass the lighter very quickly over it so as not to get carbon residue on the wires… the heat alone is enough to make the nylon strands shrink away… you dont need to put flame on wire… just wave the top of the flame over it once and thats enough…
normally i’ll just solder the wires to the terminal on the underside of the board to eliminate any question of usb cable connection… screw terminals should only be used if you absolutely do not want to do soldering…
I think I did a pretty decent job on cutting the cable and stuff and have since reconnected everything and still am getting “usb device not recognized”.
Just for you, Phreak, I’ll butcher this mini-usb cord I have. Will report back shortly.
Edit:
Not recognized.
I’m assuming you used the screw terminals to check the board? ? Is there something I can check, voltage or resistance wise to determine what’s wrong? I’m out of working USB cables to chop up here.
I tried to PM you about next steps, Phreak, but your inbox is full.
I’ve checked a bunch of the resistance measurements and something seems way off. I don’t know what I’m looking for value wise, but i can tell you the following:
Multimeter on, DC setting, Ohm setting, 2k reading setting:
At rest: 1.
D+ to D- terminal: 1.
5v to D+ terminal: .998
5v to D- terminal: .967
G1 to D+ terminal: 1.
G1 to D- terminal: 1.
G2 to D+ terminal: 1.
G2 to D- terminal: 1.
5v to G1 terminal: .712
5v to G2 terminal: .712
G1 to G2 terminal: .003
Yes, I used the screw terminals + a hacked USB cable to check the board.
OK, using the new cable kind of hanging out of your stick, plug the ribbon cable back in so that the TEasy and DS are hooked together again. What happens when you plug it into the PC but hold down the following buttons before plugging it in: LK, MP, HK, Start? Perhaps it somehow got accidentally put on passthrough as the default, can’t rule that out but I doubt it since I plugged it in and it recognized it.
If you run the configuration editor (atmega168 version) and hold select when plugging in does the light in the bottom right turn green? You can get the configuration editor and latest FW from the link in the DS thread, do me a favor and continue this in that thread since this is purely a DS related issue.
If you want to use a multimeter to check some quick things, do this.
Set the meter to continuity test (look it up on google if you’re unsure of which that is), and test between the screw terminals with the cable screwed in (UNPLUGGED!), make sure there are no shorts between any of the posts. Perhaps some strands of wire are left over inside of the terminals or something. If you test between two posts and it beeps at you, there’s a short.
If that checks out, plug it in, and put the BLACK probe on the ground terminal, and use the red probe to test the other 3 posts.
ok well plugged it in by itself and DS came up in windows, pluged everything back in and reconnected teasy pcb and dual strike software said all buttons and joy are working properly in cluding guide button, however it is not lit up. tried plugging it back into the xbox and nothing
Well that’s a good start, and this is an easy fix.
I believe you have the 3.0 Firmware, which does NOT support autodetection. Try it again on the PC with MP held down. Does it come up as the 360TE? If so, you’re good to go, test it again with MP held down on the xbox
If both of those check out, I suggest snagging the latest FW that’s located in the dual strike thread (3.1), and updating by holding Start when you plug your TE into your PC and run the update_firmware_168.bat.
I also suggest that after you update the firmware, do the following:
Grab the configuration editor (I think you need Java installed), and run the configuration_editor_atmega168.bat file. Hold Select and plug in your stick, the little icon in the bottom right will turn green to show that you’re connected.
In the top left click the button to download the current configuration of the device, then go to the “Hardware” tab and set this:
Then in the top left again click on the button to “upload the current configuration to the device”
When you’re done, press start and the little icon will turn red again, indicating that you’ve disconnected and it’s OK to unplug.
Currently “on the fly” joystick switching is enabled (until the next FW release), so for now as a precaution I’m suggesting everyone do this in the configuration editor to remove that from being any sort of issue. On the fly joystick switching is basically pressing the “meta” key + a direction to switch it to RS/LS/DP, and the meta key is default as the start button. On accident you might switch it to RS by just trying to advance to the next screen during gameplay.
Question… I am a complete noob at this and i want to dual mod my xbox fightstick it is a TE-S. So i only have to buy this mod and install it to my fightstick, or do i have to buy a ps3 controller and get the pcb out also? Sorry if this has already been asked but i didnt see it.
You need a PS3 pcb as well for the teasy to connect to. The TEasy board itself is a clever way of connecting to the existing madcatz 360 pcb without the need for soldering.
Your best options are either a ChimpSMD or Dual Strike board, as both of those would require 0 soldering and if you’re looking at the TEasy mod, you don’t want to solder.
Dual Strike is usually the easist of the 2, as there are ribbon connectors on both boards for ease of install.
With a ChimpSMD, you’d have to cut one connector off the ribbon cable and strip each individual wire in the ribbon to connect to screw terminals.
