I am soooo lost.
So i need the teasy kit, and Ps3 controller board and what else? Will a controller board from a ps3 SE work?
Also, when complete will one wire be use for both the xbox and ps3? No? I have to drill holes to get the other wire through? How would I toggle between xbox and ps3 functionality?
How would the Ps3 home button or start select buttons work? Would they?
Really sorry about the noobness.
I use a glass ashtray for screws when modding. I don’t smoke but so the clean ashtrays are really nice.
If you don’t want to solder, you need to get a TEasy board and a ps3 controller board of your choice. For non-soldering solutions, Chimp SMD and Dual Strike are the best options, as they can be bought with screw terminals soldered on, leaving installation to require only a screwdriver and some wirecutters.
Once done, The Dual Strike or Chimp SMD have detection protocols, so they would figure out what you’re attached to and pass off the signal if necessary, meaning you can use the original USB cable. If you’re using a ps3 pcb that isn’t listed above, you’d need to use either (a) two usb cables or (b) a DPDT switch for deciding which mode the stick is in.
Get the Teasy kit, and dual strike.
Get wire cutters and wire stripper and maybe a hobby knife.
Then watch those 3 videos. Stick with the dual strike. SMD chimp will work but it is harder to attach the ribbon cable right if you can’t follow a diagram.
Exactly.
Only 4 wires to connect if you use TEasy with Dual Strike. 
Edit: Deleted comment that was misconstrued and not taken in the humorous context I had intended. Hopefully I’ve clarified fully below.
Uhhh, should I be concerned?
thank for all the help by the way.
No, as I remember there was only one which had a non-disabled reset fuse (nevermind what it is). The Dual Strikes are tested before they are sold, usually everything works fine (given it is installed correctly, but that holds for all PCBs used for dual mods).
Yeah, what IvIephisto said. I just have REALLLLLY bad luck, so something had to make my install interesting. 
Not at all, just as a double check I’m re-testing all DS boards I sell as a package before they leave my house.
Please understand that these are all assembled/programmed by hand (both boards), an error can happen once in a while but we’re working hard on making sure those errors are few and far between.
Again, what Phreak and IvIephisto said. I just want to make sure I clarify that my snarky comment was not meant to discredit any of the amazing work these guys do for us. It was more of a comment where I was blowing off steam regarding my bad luck than anything else. And even with the problem, the board still worked 100% on both 360 and ps3 – I could’ve kept it honestly, but I tend to have anxiety and worry about small issues, so it would have bothered me to leave it as it was, on the off chance that I ever decided to do anything that the issue I experienced would actually impact.
These guys helped me diagnose the problem, the repair was/is relatively simple, and they’ve been more than courteous and helpful every step of the way.
If I had another stick to mod, I would order from both bencao74 and Phreakazoid187 again with 0 hesitation. The ease of install, quality of product, and ongoing support from them has been amazing and I could not speak highly enough of both individuals or their products. Without them and their support, my desire for a dual-mod fight stick would have never happened. So thank you to both, again, and hopefully I’ve clarified enough to allay any concerns my original comment may have generated.
Phreakazoid187 – package just showed up – thanks. I’m going to attempt finishing the install if I have 30 min or so to spare at lunch. I’ll let you know how it works out.
I’m fairly new to this so…
Is it possible to use this to mod a Mad Catz Wii fightstick (the TvC fight stick) to work with 360? Or is this only used to mod a 360 fight stick to work with ps3?
unfortunately NO, unless you are looking to do some soldering.
the Wii TvC stick only has a PCB under the Turbo / Home panel on the top left (top right from the inside), to dual mod (or tri mod) your TvC stick will take a little more work
here is mine
feel free to ping me on PM to discuss.
The TEasy is a great product. Got to see a few builds @purplearms had installed last friday night.
thanks button
Fuck. Got that new board, put it in, now I’m getting repeated “unable to recognize usb device”. Connections are tight as hell…
Red is VCC 5v, black is ground, white is D-, green is D+, right?
I’m assuming it must be something I did with connecting this one back to the usb cable?
Cause the only thing that changed, other than the board which Phreak tested, was my having to strip a bit more back of the USB cord back after having to restrip the white/green wires.
Ahh… that’s unfortunate. Thanks for the reply.
Alright,
Start there and let me know what’s up, we’ll get you up and running :tup:
edit:
take a quick snapshot of your USB lines in the terminals if you can…just in case we see something you don’t.
Tugged the cables, they’re all solid.
Pictures forthcoming.
Does not work on PS3. Note: connecting to PS3 was a pain in the ass. So maybe I didn’t hook everything up right… but I had to pop the stick hardness back into mad catz pcb, try to connect ribbon cable between dual strike/teasy, all while migrating to the ps3… my guess though, is it’s the same as PC, as the 360 guide button just kept flashing all 4 quadrants (much like on PC where it pops up a “not recognized… wait… not recognized… wait… not recognized” cycle forever.
Sorry for the picture quality here, but hopefully you can see:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c74/s1eepinglionhart/IMG_20101108_162556.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c74/s1eepinglionhart/IMG_20101108_162514.jpg
The only things that have changed, other than removing the other board and trying to splice this one in are:
(1) had to cut the white/green wires. went out, bought better strippers, stripped down, tried to use the fold over method of purple arms, not having great luck with it.
(2) moved the usb cable a little, with it’s wrapping around the pegs where the flute is.
With my luck, moving the flute and re-securing the usb cable broke wires internally and now my usb cable is trashed. 
I’ve tried disconnecting all wires as well as only white/green and then reconnecting. Always the same result of “USB device not recognized” loop.
I’ve borrowed a digital multimeter from a neighbor so I can check connections to the board if necessary, but I have NO clue how to use it, so I’m going to need very specific instructions on what to measure (red to point 1, black to point 2), what settings to use (volts/amps/ohms, 200mv/2v/200v, etc), etc. I figure this might be what you tell me to do to check if it’s the connection to the board or the cable itself.
I tried removing and reconnecting D+/D- again, and tightened up the stock USB cable… seems like it’s stopped the on/off spamming of “not recognized”… it just says it once now and continues to say “unknown device”.
Okay, so I got irritated and decided to take the cable out of the screw terminals again and took a few pictures of the current state of the USB cable as well.
Here we go:
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c74/s1eepinglionhart/IMG_20101108_184028.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c74/s1eepinglionhart/IMG_20101108_184249.jpg
There you should be able to see the state of the wire tips (sorta chewed up looking but still mostly solid) and most of the state of the business end of the cable, as far as DS board is concerned.
Okay okay,
Before you go crazy with stuff, let’s do a quick sanity check.
You could continue to try the stock USB cable, or do the following:
Find another USB cable you don’t mind cannibalizing and cut off the B end of it, strip (fold d+/d-) and screw into the DS on it’s own. Tug on the wires a little to make sure everything is good and solid.
If you’re having trouble with the folding aspect of the wires, try the following. From experience, I suggest only doing this on the d+/d- wires, and leaving the power wires simply stripped and twisted a bit. Folding them can make them relatively large and harder to deal with.
You’ve gotten this to work with a previous DS board, I think your set up is solid but one of your wires is just not being cooperative. If it’s spamming the message over and over, that means the board is being powered, unpowered, then powered quickly over and over, or likewise with the data lines. The fact that it only did it once this time is a step in the right direction.