Hey Phreakazoid!
We’ve been in touch over the past few weeks through e-mail; I was planning to paypal you directly today, and low and behold, your shopping cart is up and running! I ordered a v1.2 board and a Dual Strike from the new site just now.
Can’t wait to receive them! Thanks for keeping in touch, my friend.
~Zach
Hey,
does anybody know which PCB is in this one? Like TE 1st and 2nd round or super version or completly new PCB?
Bye,
I believe this was the Round 1 & 2 PCB. Phreakazoid will confirm because I have one of these and it was my stick that he used to test his boards on.
oh, thanks… 
Yes. I just installed one of Phreaks boards (Round 1 & 2 PCB) for the Madcatz all white Asian stick.
The only difference is the button configuration map settings on the PCB. Unfortunately, I found that that there is no SSIV settings that will get all the punch and kicks correctly without having to change it manually.
This is easily fixed by just swapping some of the button wires. 
Hey Phreak, my boards came in today – thanks.
I need to (a) find some time to install them and (b) get some tools first (diagonal cutters for snipping the solder joint tips) before I can install.
While I’m prepping, I’m left wondering: once I cut the USB cable from the original PCB, which terminals do I connect the wires to on the Dual Strike – I see there are exactly 5 terminals and I know there’s 5 wires within the USB cable – I’m just not sure which one goes where… I looked around in your original post and bencao’s in the DS thread, but didn’t see any video or instructions that would clarify the connection for me.
Could someone please enlighten me?
Also – will any normal “wire cutters” work for trimming the solder leads? Or should I go get the pair of diagonal cutters I mentioned? Will any hardware store carry that sort of thing or do I need to pop into a Radio Shack or something?
Thanks.
Red is VCC.
Green is Data+.
White is Data-.
Black is Ground.
Thick Black is Shield Ground.
No use.
Isn’t it labeled on Dual Strike?
Screw terminals are obscuring the text.
Do I just leave the thick black waiving around freely? That doesn’t seem safe?
Cut off the Shield Ground.
I just realized that my shameless plug didn’t work quite as well as I’d hoped, they spelled my team name wrong 
They spelled (and commented it as) Phreakbox.com, damn :(. I can’t even make a comment on the YT video for some reason, it keep giving me an error.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YLXgzxS8cEc/TMgzjuoTH4I/AAAAAAAACSQ/f5O6TnxxfTo/s320/madcatz_te_s_mod.jpg
just got this photo from a customer:
with autodetect, plus Keyboard Ecnoder for MAME
Plexi has rounded edges and countersunk flathead screws…
Hello. Just recieved my TEasy stuff today, thanks! Did everything, connected it the first time on my PS3, everything worked fine. Reassembled TE, unplugged it from the PS3 and plugged it in again, and it didn’t work. When I plug it in now, the guide light flashes over and over, whereas the first time, it only flashed once. If I press start, the flashing stops, but the stick still doesn’t work. Any idea as to what’s up?
Ok, I’m mid-mod and have a few more questions:
(1) The TEasy board clips don’t seem to be lining up on the pcb correctly – I’m having real problems getting it in the cups and to stay down… I tried trimming the solder bits off the through holes as indicated for the connections other than from the USB… not sure if that factors in or not… or if it’s got something to do with the way I’m dropping the board in to clamshell with the TEasy…
(2) What’s the best way to cut the sheath back on the usb cable? I’ve gotten the cable clipped off the pcb real close, but there’s no way in hell the red/black wires are reaching their proper screw terminals without cutting back the sheath on the USB cable a bit – I’m just wondering what the most common/advised way is. I have a standard pair of wire cutters, a pair with several “gauge” sections for wire stripping (I’ve been using this to get the ends stripped on the smaller internal USB cables), and a coax stripper – would the coax stripping tool work best?
(3) Reserved for the question I’ve forgotten, if there really was one.
Ok, update – I’ve gotten the cable split apart for USB and connected to the screw terminals. I’ve gotten the 360 pcb seated in the TEasy, but I think something is off.
I plugged into this laptop quickly and noted that it did show up as Dual Strike. I used the Game Controllers CP Applet and verified that all the joystick directions worked properly and started checking the buttons – all of the 8 buttons on the stick work properly as well as select, but start is acting funny – it lights up on release. Is this because the connection isn’t good between the PCB and the TEasy for the start signal? Should I try just reseating the PCB in the TEasy? Do I need to attempt trimming the through hole solder lead (again)?
Okay, before anything I need you to test out functionality on your PC to make sure of what’s going on. Testing on a console doesn’t give very indicative errors.
Glad you got it seated, sorry about that, the alignment isn’t always straightforward, just take it slow and trim the points and you should be OK though. The placement of the screw terminals on the DS v2 makes it a bit awkward and requires the sheath of the USB cable to be cut a little to expose extra wire.
As far as what’s going on with the Start button activating on Release only, it’s something that was added to one of the FW versions (I can’t even remember why). The easiest way to get rid of this is to update to the latest FW (v3.1), then do me a favor and use the Configuration Editor to set things up how you want, I suggest putting the “meta” button on Select instead of start. Just follow the directions in the Dual Strike thread and downloads for updating the firmware and using the editor.
Please update the FW and get back to me on the performance, it sounds like that’s your fix though.
Oddness, but it seems to work fine on both 360 and ps3 now. Goddamn, I forgot how nice this stick is.
Version still reads v3.0.0, not 3.1.0, oddly.
Used configuration editor, I thought I moved meta to select, but maybe not?
Seems holding start pushes it to boatloader and holding select puts it in config (then pressing start boots it to auto detect again).
Is it showing up as button 10 always pressed the reason why ps3 board won’t work with PC any more? Anyway, all buttons show up when dualstrike is the controller, except for guide, since guide isn’t recognized as a button. Button 10 is always lit, but the rest work fine. I booted up my ps3 with it attached, navigated to SSF4 in the XMB with it, loaded up training, put on inputs, checked all buttons, tooled around with cammy, decided to turn off, held guide selected turn system off, pressed a, boom.
I think I’m good to go. Just curious on the FW issue with button 10 showing as always pressed now on PC when using dualstrike.
Yes, holding select while plugging in puts it into config mode, and it’s used when you use the Configuration editor. Holding Start puts it in Bootloader mode, use this mode to upgrade the firmware with the atmega168 version of the .bat file.
If the version is reading as 3.0.0, make sure you have The one from this link. When I plug mine in it reads Dual Strike 3.1.0, make sure yours does too.
ps3 board won’t work? I’m not sure what you mean by that, with the new firmware there are different modes you can access if you want to bypass the autodetection:
Make sure it reads as 3.1.0, and then try this out:
let autodetection take it, and on PC it will put it into PC mode. Check if it’s seeing button 10 as held down.
a. If it’s seeing button 10 as held down still, use the (3.1.0 atmega168) configuration editor, go to the Hardware tab and make sure 4k/4p emulation is “disabled” and S3/S4 Function is either “Nothing” or “Active Low Joystick Switch Reading”.
b. If it’s not seeing button 10 as held down, hold down LK when plugging it in and make sure that no buttons are being read as held down constantly as well.
Just for the hell of it, I followed the link to the main page, did save link as on firmware, downloaded Dual_Strike_Firmware_V3.1.0_Update.zip. I extracted it, held start, plugged in the fightstick, let go of start and then used the update_firmware_168.bat file.
Game controller still sees it as “Dual Strike V3.0.0 (PS3)”. Not sure if that’s where I should be checking the FW version or not.
Joystick is always fine
Holding MP to pass thru works fine – I see only 10 buttons when I do this, and all 10 work properly.
Holding HK to activate PC shows 12 buttons. 9 is not used. 1-8 go with face buttons 1-4p/k and work fine. 10 is always on. 11 & 12 act as start/select.
Holding LK to activate PS3 mode leaves me with a “device unrecognized” option, which I assume to be correct since doc says because of faster processing of PS3 signals something has changed and you can’t use PS3 mode on PC anymore.
Autodetect does not work for my PC. It comes up as dual strike always, unless I hold select to get into the config mode. After changing things in config editor 168, I press start, and when it changes mode, now it pushes to passthru.
I checked the settings using the 3.10 config editor ATmega 168 batch and I have xbox and mame disabled. Joystick is set to digital pad. Meta button is select. Home button emu is disabled. 4k/4p is disabled. S3/S4 Function is nothing, though I tried the other setting you mentioned and it had no effect.
Testing on PS3 shows that, if button 10 is pressed, it’s not something the system recognizes. 360 seems to operate fine, from the 3 seconds I played MVC (didn’t try to use 4p/4k).
I just want everything to be status quo here so I know my install is correct.
Edit: Tried the fightstick on another laptop – the dualstrike shows up as “Dual Strike V3.1.0 (PS3)” on that computer, but the Dual Strike PCB in PC mode still shows button 10 as constantly pressed.
