Hmm, You know I noticed that happening on the SSF4 sticks the first time you put the top plate back on sometimes. However, if you fanagle it right you can get it to fit just fine and the JLF plate will sit just to the side of the 5 pin header. I noticed this happening with my proto install and also on SeeKay90’s install. If you take the plate and hold it a little north of the spot to have it sit, and then slide it south on to where it’s supposed to lay it seemed to do the trick.
Unfortunately, to leave the TE case untouched, yes the spacers need to be used. They raise the board just enough vertical height to fit the pogos. The only way you can install the board without the spacers is to dremel down that little black spine that runs in between the PCB standoffs. With the TEasy installed, take a quick peek and you’ll see which spot I’m talking about. There’s 1 or 2 pogos that will touch that spine without the added height.
Another possible fix might be to loosen the TEasy install screws just a tad, and push the TEasy a little more south, the holes I drilled are bigger than the stock screws require. Then screw them back tight into place.
You know though, I tested and fabricated my board on stock TE’s, not ones with custom full plexi replacements. I’ll have to ponder this, perhaps try to find someone with a full plexi replacement locally that I can test this out on.
control panel sits flush now. i did as advised and loosened the screws to move the TEasy as far down south as i could. this gave the jlf mounting plate just enough room to clear the 5pin harness. thanks!
quick question… are you selling the dual strike as well or is there a site i can buy it off of. i plan on placing an order with you in a couple of weeks and modding my r1 stick
Fantastic! I’ll keep this in mind for future runs though, perhaps I’ll move the mounting holes so the board sits a little more south inside the case, just to be sure to avoid this in the future.
As jdm pointed out, you can snag Dual Strike boards from bencao74’s site. However, I’m trying to keep a stock of DS boards myself for the “dual mod in a box” kits. I should have more in a week or so.
I got both Teasy and Dual strike but i read a tutorail on the dual strike first and soldered out the usb cord instead of cutting. Now when I plug my stick in a pc or ps3 it works(dual strike) but when i plug it into the 360 Nothing but a quick flash. Soo should I try to get some wire and put it in the small 4 holes and solder that ?
Wait, please before you go any further take a picture of the set up.
The only connection the TEasy will have to the Dual Strike is the ribbon cable.
Test this on your PC please:
Plug it in, it should pop up as the Dual Strike
unplug it, hold a button down, and plug it back in. It should show up as the 360 TE.
edit:
I see what you mean, yeah, just drop a blob of solder on each of the 4 USB spots on the 360 TE PCB. If you really want to be creative you could pop a few bits of wire into the holes, solder the wires, and then clip them down on the other side.
This looks great – wish it was around when I was ordering my ChImp. I still have it sitting on the shelf over there. I’d throw you the $35 for the TEasy board in an instant if my ChImp wouldn’t require soldering. After the last attempt was somewhat botched, I’m very gunshy about soldering in the least bit.
You could sell the current ChImp to someone, and use the monies to buy a ChImp SMD if you want 100% solderless but require ChImp usage.
Or…just have someone local who doesn’t mind the soldering buy a ChImp SMD and then trade him when it gets in for the original ChImp. You’ve got a few options, just weigh them and decide how you want to proceed I suppose.
I sold the ChImp over in the trade forum earlier today. So that’s step one, I guess.
I’m totally gunshy about touching another $100 stick and effin’ it up again, so I have a few questions:
(1) when you cut the USB cable from the 360 pcb, how close do you cut it? In the picture in the OP, it looks pretty close, but it also looks like parafin wax was slathered on afterwards (I suppose this makes sense to prevent shorts from the exposed wire?) and there’s some red gunk that looks like strawberry jelly?
(2) are dual strike pcbs import only? version 2 would be what I’d be looking at? Dual Strike - ArcadeForge
(3) Chimp SMD isn’t as easy as dualstrike as you need to strip out the individual wires of the ribbon cable, right? Are there any benefits of the ChImp SMD over the Dual Strike?
And with a TEasy, if I understand correctly, it’s basically: (1) unscrew everything/disconnect everything from 360 pcb. (2) Slice off USB power cable close to board. (3) Slightly clip the tips from the solder joints that seat in the clamps (4) screw down TEasy (5) seat 360 pcb in TEasy (6) seat dual strike board (with zipties/anchors) (7) connect provided ribbon cable (8) split out the USB cable connections and expose wire leads to screw into terminal connections on dual strike
Did I miss anything? What about the exposed USB wires in the 360 board? I watched the tips and tricks about how to move the USB cord to better reach and such… just want to make sure this is something I can handle myself before I get in over my head again. Thanks.
