Triple check the USB, something is wrong there, probably the D+/D- wires
Yeah, I still keep getting the same thing. Unspecified G. Upper left and bottom right guide still stay on.
This is how I currently have it plugged in:
(OUT label)
Shield
Gnd Black
D+ Green
D- White
VCC Red
Shield
Gnd Black
D+ Green
D- White
VCC Red
(XBOX label)
Did you mean the usb wires look messed up or the order is wrong?
Thanks guys for the help so far. Still not working but I appreciate any help or advice.
Did you try updating the firmware? I was able to update mine when it was in this mode, after that it worked when i plugged it in with nothing held. Showed up as Kitty after the update. No matter what, if I hold Guide I get the G as hardware name when plugged into PC.
If you do it with the switch set to RS and the lock switch unlocked and hold back or turbo when you plug it in, it should bypass the Kitty and go straight to the 360 PCB.
Still no luck. still same actions. I hope toodles can come in the thread and give me some advice because man I’m stuck on what to do now.
Possibly both. The “unrecognized device” message tells windows sees of powered device (so VCC and GND are ok) but there was a communication problem. Usually, this is due to the data lines not correctly wired (or there’s a short between the two or something else maybe).
This is the area where I’d spend my time on.
hey toodles
i think i may just have gotten into a bad borad, i really have no idea what to do or proceed. it’s really just that one button that’s all off. everything is fine. as a temporary fix i’ve rewired all of my buttons so that i don’t have to use my r2, but at this point how do i go about getting it exchanged. i will go into my installation tonight and swap the ribbon cables to see if it’s a faulty ribbon but truthfully all the cables look fine. my original post is here
i appreciate everything you do for us man, i know your swamped and busy, but really thanks for the help.
Its probably the cable… mine looks fine too but testing with multimeter confirms no signal is passing through the cable.
TriXWoN, me and 028 have similar (if not the same) issues. What tells me that it isn’t a wiring issue is because I can get X360 to recognize and play perfectly. That means that all the wires have to have connected correctly for the TE-KITTY bypass to work. When on PC(which works, unlike yourself)/PS3, RT (and LT for me) randomly get stuck when I press/hold any other button. The diagnostic LEDs do not light up as if it were being held, so its something internal to the unit methinks.
Thats not the case (that all wires have to be connected), I originally got the problem that redsoul was having, but after redoing all my wiring and checking things with multimeter, I just hooked it up without the CN1 cable since my A button was never registering (since the cable is bad). Now I can have the stick get detected as Kitty, G, or the original 360 VS stick on my PC.
The problem that the 360 board works perfectly and not the Kitty, does indicate that there is a problem with the kitty, while you’re problem with buttons being stuck does not necessarily sound like a cable issue, it does sound like something my be grounding out on the Kitty itself. Toodles will know whats going on… I just hope he shows up soon 
I’m looking at modding a Soul Calibur V Soul edition stick, I want to use it on my 360/PS3 and retro consoles. Other than the cables I need to make up for each console do I need to order anything else other than what’s shown below from godlikecontrols?
TE Kitty Board
TE-S Harness
Ethernet - 1ft or is the 24" cable better for this stick?
Neutrik RJ45 - Black
JLF-TE Cable
You do not need the JLF-TE cable.
1ft RJ45 cable is fine.
You’ll need RJ45 plugs and a crimper to make the cables. I’d also recommend some Neutrik NE8MC cable boots.
I’ve redone the usb wires and I’m still getting same results.
Toodles:
could this be a problem with the board? Or maybe the ribbons(I did get new ones just in case but have not switched them out)?
The set up:
VS Stick
VS Harness
TE KITTY
The Problem:
Every single time I plug in the USB to the computer I get upper left and bottom right guide button lights come on. The lights on the turbo light up correctly when I test out pressing buttons. I only get un specified G as the device name. I’ve tried holding turbo with RS switched over and unlock and it’s still the same thing. I’ve tried flashing the kitty and this is the message I get…
U2IO flash erasing: DONE
U2IO id programming: DONE
U2IO eeprom programming: DONE
U2IO flash programming: DONE
WARNING: No data for memory type = id
U2IO eeprom programming: DONE
RESET Device
Operation successfully completed.
I finally was able to screen capture in time to get that info just now.
I have pictures on post #1939
Sorry if I seem like I’m beating a dead horse here asking so much on my issue.
Hi Toodles,
I’ve recently got vlx kitty. It works beautifully in xbox 360. But, when connected to PS3, the button assignment is a little weird. For example, O button is assigned to L2, etc.
I guess I can solve it by remapping capability via some trial and error. But, I wonder if it’s normal or not.
I’ve updated the latest firmware. Thanks
Edit: After all, I remapped the button, and everything seems to work fine. Thanks.
Hey Toodles, I’m having a problem
Blazblue TE. TE-S harness.
Standard button layout on Blazblue TE is
B X Y LB
A LT RT RB
I rewired the quick disconnects so that they’d match the standard Madcatz/Rd. 1/2 layout of (just incase it matters, I understand it effects which turbo lights light up since the PCB is hardwired the previous way)
X Y RB LB
A B RT LT
But here’s my actual problem
When PC testing in “Arcade Stick (Blazblue TE edition)”
A = 1 (lit corresponding turbo)
B = 2 (lit)
X = 3 (lit)
Y = 4 (lit)
RB = 6 (lit)
LB = 5 (lit)
RT = 10 (NOT lit corresponding turbo)
LT = 9 (NOT lit corresponding turbo)
Start = 8
Back = 7
Joystick works in all directions in DP mode
When holding turbo and pressing all the buttons, all the corresponding turbo lights light up.
When PC testing in “Kitty TE edition”
Joystick tests work find in LS/DP/RS
A = 2 (lit corresponding turbo)
B = 3 (lit)
X = 1 (lit)
Y = 4 (lit)
RB = 6 (lit)
LB = 5 (lit)
RT = No number lights up & no corresponding turbo lights up
LT = No number lights up & no corresponding turbo lights up
Start = 10
Back = 9
Turbo = 9
Xbox Guide = 13
No number lights up for 7, 8, 11, or 12 when testing in Kitty mode
In addition to both of these modes, the lock/unlock switch no longer locks start/back whenever in locked position. I’ve been able to test this on a 360, but not on a PS3. In both the PC tests, the corresponding numbers for start/back light up when the lock switch is on. Idk if this has anything to do w/ the TE-S wires, OR it could have to do w/ the remora I have installed since it replaces the original button distribution board and start/back have their own combined QD?
& Out of curiosity, what are the buttons 11 & 12 in the Kitty mode? I’ve pressed all the buttons on my stick but those never activate lol
UPDATE. After changing where the “6” & the “5” wires are plugged in on the TE Kitty, all 8 turbo LEDs are lighting up when pressed and recognized in both TE Kitty and Blazblue arcade stick tests. This intrigues me since these 2 wires each have 2 areas (by the RJ jack) that they could be plugged in but according to the PDF it didn’t matter which. I originally had the 6 pin on the inside plug and the 5 pin on the outside plug but after switching the 6 pin to the outside and the 5 pin to the inside, all the LEDs work. I guess thank got there’s 2 different ports for each lol. My only problem now is the lock switch still not locking the start/back buttons but I think it could have something to do w/ the remora board & not the TE Kitty board?
Double Update. Nevermind -__-. I’m gonna leave my post up here because I worked so hard to type it all, but I figured out that the start/back problem was related to the remora board and I just had to cut a trace on it. All my problems are solved
so i tried swapping my cables h/r cables around, and as of right now the r2 still doesn’t work like it should but is better. as soon as i tap it, it repeats it self for a short period of time. before it would spaze out for a good 5-7 secs, now it just repeats 2-3 times. so in English, if i was on my ps3 text chat, it would go from small/caps rapid fire 2-3 times really fast, almost like a glitch. where as before it would keep swapping to/from for a good while. in game, my r2 still will not register on hit. it miss fires way too often. so if it is the cables anyone have any ideas as to a fix? toodles how can i go about swapping either the board or getting new cables to test it?
thanks guys for any advice or help. it’s greatly appreciated.
my original post is here
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.ph…ass-boards-thread.129829/page-38#post-7310471
I just ordered a TE kitty from Godlike Controls. Before I install it, if for some reason I wanted to remove it later could I just solder the usb connections back and have my stick work the way it did before or is there no going back after I cut the usb cable?
Yes, if you remove the Kitty and reconnect everything and solder the USB cord back to one piece, it will just be a normal 360 TE like before.
you know with the kitty installed, i dunno if you ever have to remove it. it seems like it really doesn’t affect things on my XBOX/PC side at all. my installs has issues in that my r2 will not function like normal on my PS3 but everything else works flawless, it’s as if there was never an install there. at this point re-soldering the wires back to my madcats board would just be too much trouble.
thanks guys it takes a little stress off cutting my usb cable.
My Tracking # has been on “Electronic Shipping Info Received” for 5 days. Does USPS not update it? like UPS