Ok Toodles here goes; I have a TEKitty in a Mad Catz Round1 which will not work when i try to force it to Xbox 360 mode, it acts as if nothing is plugged in. I double checked my connections, still nothing. I have other sticks with TEKitty and just put one in the same round 1 and it worked flawlessly. I even tried it on an Xbox 360 just to be sure. When putting in the “bad” Kitty the same issue traveled over to my SFXTekken VS stick. The TEKitty itself shows up in Windows in the GameControls applet and tests ok, but once again forcing to Xbox 360 mode yields no results.
Im assuming that it doesnt work on a native Xbox360 as well, is that correct? If it isn’t, let me know but Ill assume its correct.
If you’re not getting any errors, but normal Kitty operation is fine, then the problem has to deal with the USB connection. This could be either the USB wires from the TE board to the Kitty, or the 4066 switch on the Kitty.
The very first thing I’d do is remove the USB wires from the ‘OUT’ screw terminals, and double them up in the ‘Xbox’ screw terminals with the ones already there. So both green wires in the XBOX section D+ screw terminal, both white wires in the Xbox section D-, etc. Plug it into a PC (you dont need to hold anything down) and see if it comes up as the madcatz. The idea here is we’re directly connecting the TE USB wires to the outgoing cable, taking the Kitty out of the picture electronically. Post up how it behaves and we’ll go from there.
I’m thinking it’s the swtich since the board won’t go to xbox 360 mode in two TEs, yet the other Kitty does work in the Round 1 stick. Toodles i’m strictly using the RJ-45 jack, could that make a difference?
RJ-45 wont be a factor.
And I’ll happily guide you through how to prove definitively that its the Kitty that is having the problem. The steps I outlines in #1782 are the first step.
Best quote I’ve seen today…
There’s no guarantee that the Wii U and PS4 will be compatible with ANY of today’s stock joystick controllers let alone the third-party custom PCB market (MC Cthulu, PS360+, Kitty’s, etc.).
I’d hazard a guess – not a wild one – that Microsoft will continue its policy of getting as much money as it can from official licensed controllers with security chips that work only on THEIR console. Sorry, guys, but enough of you supported the 360 through all of its technical troubles and burnouts and MS thinks you’ll take it up the-you-know-what next generation *so there’s no incentive for them to change the controller policy! * As for system meltdown, my guess is that if common sense prevails people will NOT put up for first-generation, early production consoles dying on them within a year. (That said, there still exist enough Halo fanatics to prove me wrong! Common sense flew out the window this past generation…) The 360 broke records for system malfunctions and early wear-downs and I’ve been around most systems the past 30 years and I have NEVER seen one with so many broken consoles/meltdowns – that includes the PS1 which was notorious for overheating in the early models.
(Rant of the day – I will NEVER buy a used Sony or MS system if I can help it. You just don’t know the quality of the internal build and a refurbished early model 360 or half-dead PS3 can still give you headaches in the long run. Better to buy brand-new, newer production system!)
(To this day, I think only Sega and Nintendo have, in the past 25+ years, managed to produce consistent quality systems from Day One that DON’T break down within a year. I have an early model Saturn that still works perfectly fine and my GameCube has given me few troubles aside from programming errors in Rebel Strike.)
My early guess is that Sony won’t change its controller specs/control laws/whatever-you-call-it-that lets the earlier PS system controllers function on later models but we won’t know for sure until PS4 actually releases… whenever! (Besides, why screw around with a basic controller design that works really well for everything but six-button fighters??? Makes no sense to reinvent that “wheel”!) I really think Sony’s bigger problem is how to market a system that’s sufficiently powerful enough but more economical than the PS3 initially was. The PS3 is a fine system but I think it was a bit over-engineered and should have been a hell of a lot cheaper from release day… Don’t think any company can afford another $600-$700 game system launch. I really think everybody should shoot for under $400 if possible for a core system that IS a game system first BUT with decent Internet gaming support… Most of us don’t really need media card readers, adapters for memory cards, etc. 4 USB ports WOULD be nice but is not essential given the fact basic control pads have moved mostly to wireless… If they want to charge more for bling, fine, but let us be able to upgrade our systems without the B.S. Microsoft pulled with “exclusive” hard drives AND let’s have all the systems incorporate WiFi in all models!
Getting back to my second main point for my reply…
Has anyone modded a 360 Hori Soul Calibur V joystick with the VLX Kitty? I thought I had read it was possible but haven’t seen confirmation or can’t remember where the pics are…
If someone can provide me the pinout for the VLX Kitty, I am more than willing to check to see if it matches up with the Hori SCV
Start Button = No Worky: A V.S. Stick Adventure.
So I got the Kitty + VS harness and followed the TE-S install to a T. Everything works fine except the Start button. It doesn’t show up on either Kitty mode or X360. Guide and Back work just fine, but when I press Start, I get nada. Yes, I checked the sliders. Yes, I checked everything in Game Controllers. LEDs light up just fine, everything works perfectly, just not Start. Yes, Start was working before I decided to hack up everything. Yes, Start button’s wires are still connected and nothing came loose.
Funny bit, when in X360 mode (Game Controllers), Start button is not lit, but when I hit Back, Start button comes on and stays lit. Second funny bit, when I put up the lock switch, if I hit/hold Start then hit Back, I can actually trigger the Back button to come on.
Is there a more specific VS install that I need to do? Also, is it possible to only use the RJ-45 through the Kitty for detatchable USB? I tried to force x360 through that, but it didn’t register as 360…
That’s pretty weird, but it should be easy to track down. My best guess with what was posting was something weird with the VS harness cable going from CN2 on the button distro board tothe Kitty and TE board. Can you take some clean pictures of that ribbon where it plugs into the different spots? If there’s a fault, it’d likely be at the doubled up spot where it plugs into the main TE board.
I just installed mine into the VS stick and i have the exact same problem. RT button wont light up and it doesnt register in windows. Do need a replacement cable. Ive checked all my connections and they are wher they are supposed to be. This is my second install and my TE stick went flawless but this one isnt.
If you’ll take some pictures of that ribbon (the one going into ‘CN2’ on the button distro board) at all three ends so I can verify its a bad cable, I’ll get a replacement out to you immediately.
I will do that when i get home from work then.
I was going to wait for the next revision Kitty TE for that trigger fix, but needed a dual mod stick for next month, so I hope its not too big of an improvement! 
I’m from the UK so ordered a Kitty TE kit from Gahrling and it works perfectly.
I just wondered how the RJ-45 installation would make the stick work with a SNES or other consoles, I guessing you’d get a cable that is RJ-45 to whatever?
That is correct.
Connect your Kitty TE to a RJ45 jack and a whole world of possibilities open up to you.
Cable guide can be found here, or you can order some ready made ones from me if preferred:
Is there any point of installing the latest firmware if it works fine as it is?
It should already have the latest firmware on it.
Ok so herse the pic. So when playing on my xbox every button works but the RT wont light up. when playing on the ps3 the RT wont register or light up and the back button dont work. Windows also doesnt register the back button or the RT button
Well, I cant make out too much of the middle piece, but that’s good enough for me. Send me a PM with your paypal email and zip code so I can find the order, and I’ll get a replacement out to you asap.
Toodles, I just installed a TE-S Kitty on a stick and from time to time the select button is pressed automatically. For example, when I’m playing UMVC3, sometimes I press an attack button and the character just taunts. At first the problem happened evey once in a while but now is very frequent.
Do you have any tips on this?
Does it happen if the lock switch is set to Locked?
I’ll upload some pictures later today, I hope. I was trying to isolate a couple of things and found out something. I can run the CN2 cable from the button distro to the x360 board just fine without having the “5 wire/6 connector” go into the Kitty, then Start works. Another thing I tried for kicks is that I put a wire into the “missing” XGND spot from the x360 board to the missing spot on the Kitty, and I can see the “10” button light up under Game Controllers (Kitty mode). However, it is constantly pressed. It stays lit until I pull the wire out, and button presses don’t do anything. Last bit, doesn’t matter which side I put the harness into the Kitty, same result.