Good enough for me. Please send me a PM with the paypal address, postal code, and a reminder of which harness it is (TES or VS) please and I’ll get it out asap.
Hello once again Toodles. I just installed my Kitty in my MvC2 stick and I have an issue. When the stick is plugged into a 360 the 4 button led’s across the top and bottom right two, and three lights around the guide button flash twice and nothing happens. I thought that I might have screwed something up with the USB cable, but I unscrewed the usb wires from the kitty and twisted them together, and it’s instantly recognized as a 360 joystick.
I plugged the stick into my laptop to try the firmware flash. I plugged it in while holding the guide button and the top left and bottom right lights of the guide lit, and all of the button LED’s respond, but windows failed to install the stick. I’ve reconnected all of the ribbon cables and followed the guide to the letter. I’m just not sure where else to go with it. I can give you more specific shots of the flashing lights if that would help, but I don’t know what else to do.
The firmware needs reflashed to the Kitty, with a the official version and not the troubleshooting version you may have been working with earlier. If you’re having trouble doing the flashing, please be very detailed about everything you’re seeing with the flashing.
I’m not even getting there. Windows won’t install the device, so when I run the flash utility the dos screen pops up for a split second, then disappears.
From KittyUsersGuide.pdf:
This is too much. Not saying the guide needs to be a “how to crimp RJ45 for dummies” guide, but I had to cut my exposed wires down to about 1/4".
BTW, since it came up in this thread, I swapped out my still-glued JLF connector for a JLF-TE, and it’s so so so nice of a part. It fits well and it’s sturdy, you can grip the connector firmly and rock it to one side then slide it away. I’ve used some before but only to install into friends’ SE sticks that started acting up.
Argh, seems like the problem is very random, I wasn’t able to reproduce it after my last message with and without the lock switch on position… I know I’m being very vague here, but do you have a very very early idea of what could be happening?
Yep, harness was it. Saw the difference immediately between the two different crimps. That did the trick. Thanks! Beer on me at Evo :). Speaking of which, how do I disable the LEDs from lighting up when I press buttons/directions (I’m sorry, I’m sure this is covered before)? I just don’t want the refs looking at me all funny when I pull combos and my control panel lights up all pretty. Any in-person Evo specials btw?
Focus on the USB wires going to the Kitty. Pictures would be a good idea.
The LEDs you see that indicate the bootloader mode are a good sign, but the USB communication may be wonky for some reason. Take a close look over the USB wires, and if nothing is seen, we’ll have to get the multimeter out for locate the source of the problem.
Most likely causes, in my opinion:
- Pushbutton for Select on the case has a worn out microswitch, and vibration force is causing it to activate. Main signs that would point to this are unplugging one of the wires to the Select button causing it to go away, problem appearing on both consoles, but not with Lock switch, and never causing an accidental Turbo activation.
- The ‘nipple’ actuator under the Turbo button is smooshed or misaligned, causing force on the stick to make it activate; since the Select/Back line is tied to Turbo, this would also cause Select to activate. Symptoms are that it appears on both consoles, sometimes with one or more of the pushbuttons going Turbo as well.
- Loose or exposed metal or wire causing Select or turbo to occasionally touch and activate. This like would NOT be stopped by the Lock switch, and would occur on both systems. Turbo activation is a possibility if the Turbo was the one being shorted low.
So, if I were you, first thing I’d do is swap the wires and QDs for Select and back. If the problem moves to Start, then a new 24mm button fixes it. If the problem remains on Select, open up the LED daughterboard and remove the nipple from under Turbo, and play that way for a while. If the problem disappears you know it was the nipple and can try to properly seat it back in or live without it. If the problem remains, field strip the stick and reassemble, taking extra special care to keep the installation clean from stray exposed wires.
Glad to here it, and you dont owe me anything; I shouldnt have sent a bum one out in the first place.
Disabling the light on press LEDs is possible, but requires pulling pieces off of the bottom of the Kitty, and is silly to do when you know they arent cheating. Send anyone who thinks otherwise to come see me.
As for specials, I dunno. But definitely cool stuff to show off. Come by and say hi bring your friends and scope the pretty toys on display.
Hi Toodles, I was originally going to dual mod my VS so purchased a TE Kitty and VS harness. I am now considering modding my SFXT Pro stick instead, so my question is: can I use the VS harness for this or do I need to buy the TE-S harness? Thanks!
Hi Toodles. I recieved my replacement cable today. I installed it and everything is working like it should now:D Thank you very much.
Trying a Kitty in a Pro stick is a bad idea.
Awesome, enjoy!
Will there ever be a Kitty for the Pro sticks, or is it not possible? I want to dual mod my Evo stick 
The Kitty already works on the Pro stick.
But the problem is the way the stick has been designed, which makes the Kitty a pain to install.
Is it PCB related or just because there’s like zero room inside?
The stick shell is the problem, not the PCB.
It can be done but you’ll need a lot of modding experience to achieve this. I’d suggest looking for alternatives instead.
QFT. It is not a job for the weak. Very dremel heavy.
Is there any noted lag with the Kitty in a VLX for 360? Reason I ask: I got the Kitty from EVO, installed it, tried out by Qanba in PS3 mode, seems like it has virtually no lag when playing but the VLX in a PS3 does but is fine in the 360…Maybe I am smoking crack but I swear the Qanba feels more fluid when pressing buttons and moving…
Sooooo i finally got my Kitty hooked up to my VS and i have a question. How do you disable the turbo buttons and guide button from lighting up everytime i move or press a button? lol
The VLX stick uses a crappier cable than you’ll find on TE sticks, and the speed had to be reduced to prevent connection problems. If you want to try a speedier firmware, I can put one together for you, but connection reliability could suffer for it.
The Guide showing the direction I could disable in the firmware, but the LEDs are hard wired to do that. There are a few diodes on the bottom that can be easily popped off with a pair of pliers that would disable that behavior. If you want, I can point out the ones to remove.
Or he could simply put in a proper USB cable.
It still makes me angry how Hori can charge a fortune for a stick yet use crap quality components.