Probably the suck-ass cable MadCatz uses with the incorrect piece that mates to the JLF’s PCB. Get a JLF-TE cord and see if that clears up your problem.
Question: instead of taking out the back button on the TE could you just take out were the usb cable is and make a pass through there and use rj45 to usb
Indeed you can. That’s what I plan to do (once I finish these sticks). Jdm has pictures of such an install, somewhere.
It happens in both ps3 and 360 mode (was just able to test ps3 mode recently). This is leading me to believe that its not the TE Kitty that is malfunctioning.
DanAdamKOF: I’ll try that next. There will hopefully be a modded at a local tourney this weekend that could sell me one.
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Andreas x J and J x SCR 2011/812bb236.png
http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/ad66/jdm714_bucket/Andreas x J and J x SCR 2011/043f4ad6.png
If
This leads me to believe it’s exactly what Dan said, If its happening on both systems it’s probably closer to the stick, and I would bet it’s the cable.
I don’t know that a modder will be carrying around JLF-TE Cables specifically, but if they have a standard jlf harness they can just solder that in place for you.
I’ve mentioned this before, but you can remove the JLF’s PCB instead of the connector and not risk it not working afterwards. Toodles said he’d update the installation guide with this suggestion, hopefully we’ll see less problems like this in the future.
Hey toodles I have a peculiar problem. I installed a kitty into a round 1 TE stick. Everything was fine for about a month then one day I plugged it into my xbox and it wouldn’t register. The arcade stick suffered no trauma. I connect the arcade stick to a pc & ps3 and the kitty pcb was still fully functional minus 2 lights on the the turbo display(lp &mk). I then uninstalled the kitty and reinstalled the original pcb to confirm the fate of the TE’s pcb. It was dead. I have since the bought a replacement pcb. Have you ran into this problem before? If so will it happen again if I install this new pcb?
No. Kitty’s are made for 360 model sticks. The ribbon cables are different in PS3 models.
A replacement is easy enough. PM me with your paypal email and zipcode so I can find the order and I’ll get a replacement out via first class mail asap.
No, it wont have anything to do with replacing the JLF, assuming your buttons dont work when this happens. If the stick stops working but the buttons work fine, then yes, it’d be a problem with the replaced JLF and the crappy stock cable. Getting a JLF-TE cable would fix that.
Chances are that isn’t what’s happening; I’d expect you’re seeing the full stick disconnect with it pausing. That’d be from the USB wires getting knocked around when you did the JLF replacement. Go over the wires in the screw terminals and redo them solidly and cleanly and that problem will go away.
Sure.
Im sorry but I dont have anything helpful to bring to the table on that. Its uncommon for sure, but they do die on occasion, and since I didnt build it or know how it works internally, there’s nothing I can do to help revive one.
what stick is that i like the blue base, also did you just drill a hole in the back to fit the RJ45 jack
MadCatz ChunLi TE-S Limited Edition.
what i meant to ask is can you use the RJ45 port from the kitty board and get usb support through it as well as other consoles?
Yes, that’s why it’s there.
I had something similar happen, except it’s the funky siamese ribbon cable mentioned in step 7 of your install guide; one of the ones that came with the TE-S harness kit I bought from you:
The misbehaving one is on the 7-pin connector on the short ribbon (bottom left in the picture). I tried to extract and re-crimp the pin, but it did me no good. At present, it works fine in Kitty mode, but 360 pass-through mode causes a “device failed to connect” error in windows. How can I get a replacement?
That error would have to do with the USB wires in the screw terminals, not that ribbon. Replacing that ribbon will not change the fact you’re getting that error.
Post up pictures of your setup with close detail to the USB wires going to the screw terminals, and we’ll go from there.
My camera isn’t great on macro shots, but here you go:
Nicely done. I can’t see the green wire on the Xbox side, but Im confident it’s fine.
I realize you’ve seen that error message when you plug the stick in, but I wonder if it’s still connecting without a message. Plug it in forcing Xbox360 mode (slider on RS, Turbo button held down on plug in), wait about 15 seconds to be safe, and check the Game controller’s applet (Start->Run-> ‘control joy.cpl’) and let me know if anything shows up there.
If nothing shows up there, continue on.
If you would, please download this, and flash the ‘striaght to 360’ hex file.
http://www.gdlk.co/download/kitty/TEKittyTroubleshooting.zip
To do the flashing, unzip that to a directory somewhere, hold down the Guide button on the stick and plug it in; you’ll see two of the guide LEDs on (upper left and lower right?) to let you know its in bootloader mode. Double-click the Kitty.exe, click ‘Update Firmware’, and select the ‘straight to 360’ .hex file and click ok. It’ll like a moment while it does it’s work, so leave it be. Once it’s completed, unplug the stick and plug it back in normally, wait 15 seconds and check the control panel applet again like before. Let me know what if anything you see on both the stick’s guide LEDs and in that applet.
Held the back key when plugging in, waited a solid minute, control panel applet remained empty.
After flashing, the guide LEDs all lit up for a couple seconds, then went dark. Again, control panel applet remained empty.
So there’s either a problem with the connections through the kitty, or the madcatz board itself, or something like a loose wire touching the madcatz board is causing it to fail.
So we need to scale it back a bit to try and pin down the failure. Next best step is to take the four USB wires in the OUT section, and double them up with the matching wires in the XBOX section. So both red wires in the bottom-most screw terminal, both white wires in the next to bottom-most screw terminal, then green then black. It wont matter what you hold when you plug it back in, just make sure they’re making good connections in the screw terminals to each other and plug it in. Check the game controllers applet to see if the madcatz pcb shows up when setup that way.
arghl…getting those wires in place was a stone bitch last time, i don’t know how i’m going to get them doubled up. going to talk to a local friend tomorrow who has more hardware experience, see if he can help me with this step