I’ve come across a weird problem trying to install a TE kitty on a Blazblue TE with the TE-S harness. I’ve checked my connections and I don’t think I did anything wrong. I was able to flash the PCB, but my buttons seem a bit… wonky. None of them respond, except for when I hold down the “5” button, and then some of the other buttons respond if I still hold it(5) down, but not all of them. Where did I go wrong?
I’ve plugged in the joystick and that worked fine, but the buttons still remain problematic.
I just noticed, that on my button distro board, the “openings” for the ribbon cables are facing the distro instead of facing out, so when I plug in the ribbons, it mixes all the buttons up. Not sure what I should do from here.
I’m thinking I need a reverse ribbon cable for that particular part. My stock PCB is as is in TE kitty instal manual, but my distro board is like this. Or I could break the sides of where the cables connect to “force” connect them in the right direction. I can’t really de-solder and re-solder, which is why I bought this mod :<
RESOLVED: I found I can just pull off the white guides by wedging them off with a flathead screw driver and flipping them around. The pins needed some straightening but it’s all good.
What’s the easiest way to connect an FG Widget Led Board to a Kitty PCB? Do I solder a wire from the Led Board out, to the corresponding point on the underside of the kitty PCB? or can I get away with soldering to the solder points underneath the barrier strip?
I’m really worried about it. Slight movements in the cables disconnect the PC and I struggled to get the USB colored wires into their respective screws. I’m scared they’ll come loose and I’ll have to trim more to get it to stick.
Nothing. When the slider is set to RS, the POV hat wont do anything. POV hat will only work for Dpad.
If you think the install isn’t reliable enough, redo it until it is. If you need more exposed wire in the screw terminals for it to be a solid enough connection for your liking, go for it. If you’d prefer, you can easily solder to the through holes just next to the screw terminals; they’ll handle abuse better.
EDIT - Oh no… as I tried to put the panel back on, it started connecting and disconnecting from my PC rapidly and my computer crashed. Now neither the PC or 360 will recognize it. I’ll have to try again in two days. I have an exam to prepare for, but what does this mean?
I’m going to try freeing up some more of the wire later. If I use too much can I solder on more copper onto them? The white and green ones are particularly finicky…
From what I’ve found, you don’t need to have the bare wire sitting in the terminals on their own. As long as you have around 3mm exposed, you can have it create a V with the insulated part and shove that whole thing into the terminal, then tighten it down like crazy (the screw terminals will handle a lot of torque and don’t jump threads or cam out, you should do this on a “perfect install” regardless) and it should have fine connectivity.
PHEW! This did the trick. I was less stingy on the wires and got a stable connection. I just played my first round of Skullgirls on Ps3 with it, and when SCV comes in the mail, I will play with my brother. What an excellent purchase!
The next issue is this. There are lots of wires sitting directly under the A button, so it requires more pressure and sometimes it gets stuck. I had to loosen up the cover bolts to relieve the pressure underneath…
I know it’s not supported (and I apologize for semi-hijacking your thread, Toodles!) but I was wondering if anyone who has done it could give me tipsfor putting a Kitty in the SFxT Pro sticks? I’ve put a Kitty in a TE-S before so I’m pretty familiar with it, and I understand it can’t be mounted the same way. For reference, I have a dremel so I can open up some space if need be. I picked one up in the Amazon sale today as did a friend (who hasn’t modded sticks before) so any tips on how this install will differ from the norm would be great. I’ve checked out the pictures back in the thread for reference so I’ve seen a little of how people have done it. More pictures or information would be much appreciated though.
I wish there was an easy fix for that, but it’s just the mass of wires MadCatz used for the buttons. You just need to do you best to spread out the wires as evenly as you can where there’s room.
I haven’t managed it yet, but there are pictures in this thread of two different folks who have done it. The wiring and connections are all identical to a normal TE-S install, but figuring out a way to mount the Kitty board itself proves tricky.
So me and my friend both installed a te kitty in our 360 mvc2 sticks. Mine seems to be done right but he seems to be having issues. His guide button isn’t working and sometimes the stick gets a disconnected error. I opened his up to look at it for him.
One of the 6 pin ribbon cables has one of the pins (dunno if thats the right term) disconnected and it seems to be the H ribbon connected between the TE board and the TE kitty board. I think he was pulling on it by the wires when he tried to check out the cause. When I push the pin in place the stick works fine, but the wire doesn’t stay in place consistently.
Is there a way to fix this with possibly some liquid electric tape or does it need to be soldered in? Or would I be able to switch the ribbon cable with one of the other six pin ribbon cables that are less important? What exactly would the part be called if I were to look for it in stores? I keep coming up with computer cables that are much larger through google.
Disconnected issue may have to do with the connections of the USB wires in the screw terminals. Make sure those are in good and solid, and I’m not joking when I say to wrap the end of the cord insulation with electrical tape to prevent stray wires.
If you want the Kitty to be reliable, you HAVE to take care during the install and do as clean a job as possible with those USB wires.
Now, I’m assuming you’re saying that one of the ribbon cables has a problem, with one of the wires in the ribbon; I cant tell if the wire got seperated from the metal crimp pin in the white connector end, or if the crimp pin (with wire still attached) came out of its place in the connector end. I think this is a good time for a photo, so I can see which ribbon and what kind of problem.
Heh, one of each of the possibilities I wasn’t sure of. Far left has a crimp pin coming out of the connector, and the middle has the wire disconnected from the crimp pin.
First, the good news; niether of those are a big deal. Those wires are where the TE board controls two of the LEDs (LB and RB IIRC) on the turbo panel. The usual ‘light on press’ wouldn’t be affected, and you’d only ever notice a problem if you used turbo in 360 mode. Turbo would still work, but you wouldnt see the LED light up.
As for switching ribbons around, please dont. Those are about the most worthless wires in the system.
If I were you, here’s what I’d do about those ribbons:
Shove the crimp pin back into the connector. If it doesn’t stay, cut that wire and toss it.
The wire that came out of the connector- cut it so there’s no chance of the exposed copper touching anything.
That’s it. You wouldn’t have those 360 mode only turbo on LEDs, but everything else would be peachy. If it ever became something you wanted to fix anyways, get ahold of me and I’ll sell you a replacement ribbon kit; if you’re in the US, itd be like $7 total with shipping, no biggie. But its really a ‘who cares’ kinda problem. If it were my stick, I simply wouldn’t care.
Now, about it disconnecting. That’s entirely different, and almost certainly isn’t caused by that problem, unless that little exposed bit of copper went flailing around and touched some exposed metal on either pcb. Can I get some pictures around the screw terminals?
I put the stick in firmware mode guide 1 and 4 is lit.
I go to to install the firmware asks for admin I approve, dos box flashes and disappears.
I do a run as admin command line on the runasadm.bat making sure in the bat has got the tekitty firmware in there because default its the vlx.
Errors out with a
fw_update.exe -e -w -m all -vid 0x6666 -pid 0x9001 -ix tekitty_complete_13.hex
U2IO flash erasing: FAILED.
Device is not found.
Operation aborted.
This is through the rj45 and usb screwed to the board.
The pins needed some straightening but it’s all good.
