Hmm, I’ll look into that. The ones I did, I never tried to put the cover back on.
Just opened up a BlazBlue Te. Looking at the PCB I realized that it has 7 pins for the “H” cable. So am I correct that it needs an S harness?
The two VS sticks I did I noticed the top right corner pcb post goes through the pcb and when I put the screws in it doesn’t even touch the pcb so I just put the cover back on plus it covers some of the connectors.
yup
Came across an oddity in the TE Rnd2 that I installed a Kitty in a couple of weeks ago for my buddy.
He told me that, occasionally, the PC/console will see the stick has being jammed in the UP direction. The other directions appear to still work (pressing down brings it to neutral, pressing left/right nets him a up-left/up-right; this was validated on a PC). In PS3-mode, the player LEDs will show UP being pressed constantly. I was also told that this jammed UP issue also happens in Xbox360 mode as well.
The weird thing is that this apparently happens sporadically. He would unplug and re-plug the stick, and most of the time it’d work normally.
I haven’t gotten the stick back yet to have a look myself (he’s supposed to drop it off with me in the next couple of days), but I was wondering if anyone else has come across anything like this before…
Worn joystick, nothing to do with the Kitty.
Ok cool. Good to hear. At least with that, it wasn’t my mod-job that made it wacked. 
I’ll still double-check it when he drops the stick back with me, just in case.
Thanks for the quick response, Toodles.
Alrighty. My friend dropped by about 2 hours ago, and we troubleshooted the TE Rnd2 + Kitty for a good hour.
Turns out, as the top panel was being bolted down, it would press down ever so slightly on the stock Xbox360 PCB, and was shorting something out. This was discovered when I placed the top-panel down without bolting it, and I would press down around the lower middle bolt’s area, flexing the casing slightly. The player LEDs would show UP being pressed when I pressed down on the panel.
Opened up the top-panel, and just simply pressed down on the stock PCB (onto the Kitty) caused the same sort of short. So I ended up just putting a whole layer of electrical tape between the Kitty and the stock PCB. Solved the problem there. 
EDIT: Nm. It seems to work on my other computer. Thanks anyway
Hey guys. Tried searching this thread for an answer, but was unable to find help. Sorry if this has been answered.
I just installed all the hardware into my mvc3 TE, and all the buttons are lighting up when pressed and working correctly on my 360. I tried plugging in my stick into the computer and flashing it, but my pc doesn’t recognize the stick. I plug the stick into my pc pressing the guide button, and the top left/bottom right led’s light up. When I try to upgrade the firmware, The dos window pops up fast and closes, not updating the firmware. What should I do next? I’m on win 7 btw.
Hey Toodles, I’m planning to order some parts to finish my Kitty-modded R1 TE sticks soon. I want to have DB25 jacks on them in case I want to use the raw button signals for anything. I mainly have it in mind to use the DB25 jacks with the NeoGeo, Genesis (either 3 buttons direct or a 6 button padhack project box), and C64, with the possibility of also using them on the Amiga and with a Supergun. Do you forsee any issues with this setup? Would I need to connect VCC for use with any of these to prevent any weird differences in potential or ghosting or anything like that? (of course, save for anything that would be padhacked obviously) For that matter, if anything is padhacked in this setup, should that “tri mod” be OK? I’d think it’d have enough juice to go around (plus I’m not running LEDs or optical sticks) but I may as well ask.
There’s no reason it can’t be done, but you’ll understand if I can’t help you with it directly if you run into problems. All of the signals (buttons, directions) can be connected directly, same with ground. You’ll have the best luck following the Supergun/modified Neo pinout that laugh put up for his converter if you go DB15. The power line should go to the ‘real’ VCC (the VCC in the Xbox section of screw terminals or USBVCC ribbon wire); having it go from the DB15/DB25 through a diode like a N5817 would be preffered, but not required.
Basically what I figured, and no worries on unsupportedness. I don’t think a single DB15 can hold me since I’ll want to bring out 4 directions + 8 buttons + start/select/home + turbo (why not) + ground + vcc, but I’ll look into it.
I’m unsure which microcontroller/area of the pcb you’re asking me to test.
On another note I think i’ve potentially found my problem and it happens to be the same issue I’m having on a newly installed 360BrawlPad/MCCthulhu/Impv2 setup.
Back when I did the TE Kitty I had tested it on PS3/360/PC with everything working brilliantly before I tested it on a Wii with a GC cable. After the GC cable didn’t work, I just told myself I’d have to make a new one before customer picked up his stick and put it off to the side for X months.
Recently, I did a clean 360BrawlPad/MCCthulhu/Impv2 and once again tested it on PS3/360/PC with everything working and then found that same GC cable around not remembering if it had worked correctly. Tried it with a no go. Then when I went back to try any of the other systems that had previously worked they no longer worked at all.
It’s the SAME exact problem of not recognizing in PC at all under game controllers (or even a USB device) i’m having with both sticks. Alternatively, they BOTH work using the PS2 to USB adapter cable on the PC.
I looked at the GC cable I had previously made and realized it was a fuckup of a cable.
Ground was in the correct spot, but voltage and data were in the wrong spot.
From rtddesigns RJ45 tutorial thread-
Gamecube pin Purpose RJ45 Pin
3 Ground 1
2
3
4
5
6
2 Data 7
1 VCC 8
I had put the VCC in RJ45 pin 4 and the data in RJ45 pin 8 while the ground was still in the correct RJ45 pin 1
Does this basically mean I fried a data line on each board?
Also, if I did with the Kitty, it means I’m SOL and have to order a new board completely, but on the MCCthulhu could I just buy an “upgrade kit” and replace that?
Herp derp, I don’t always fuck up, but when I do, I do royally.
Thanks in advance.
-FrankCastleAZ
Dont feel bad. I think I fried a TE pcb last week.
I am having the exact same issue.
My stick was working fine, but now it does not show up in windows as anything.
Holding the guide button will put it in firmware flash mode but I cant flash the firmware.
Ive tried usb to laptop connection through rj45 mod and wired to the kitty board windows sees nothing.
All buttons light up minus LB
I also use the rj45 cable method but all my cables look/test fine with multimeter and where working.
Bypass tekitty into 360mode shows nothing also.
Any ideas on what I cant test, hopefully its not another tekitty dud but im willing to send it in again.
When it worked it worked great.
Hey Toodles, I’m kinda short on cash now, so i need to ask: will the V.S harness be available for a long time or is it a limited run?
Also, how do I add PS2/Dreamcast support to a V.S with a Kitty?
Thanks!
Hey Toodles,
Ordered A TE-Kitty and TE-Kitty S harness kit for my TE S stick. Got through everything smoothly until the last paragraph in step 14. The movement of my stick did not show up under properties, and the guide says this would show if the large 5 pin ribbon connecting the main board to the TE-Kitty is installed correctly. Well, I unplugged that cable on both ends and plug them back in to make sure they were in correctly. Now when I plug my stick in, it comes up as “USB Device Not Recognized” (Under windows 7). I get this same error when I have the switch on DP or RS and whether I’m holding down the guide for the DP side or the Turbo for the RS side.
Any clue as to what went wrong?
EDIT: One of the green wires came undone, which fixes the USB Deivce Not Recognized error. The only problem I’ve got now is that last paragraph in step 14 “verify that
movement of the stick shows up properly. This verifies that the large five pin ribbon
connecting the TE Kitty to the original TE board is on correctly.” Joystick movements works in TE Kitty Mode but not the Arcade Edition mode.
You put the switch back to DP when you are in Xbox 360 Mode?
When I do that and I move the stick it does work (dumb on me). Stick also works in the 360, so I guess that is a successful install!
I mean testing the Kitty by itself.
IF the problem was solely in the MC Cthulhu chip, yes, an upgrade kit so you can replace the chip would do the trick. But it just seems weird because I dont see how that setup could have permanently hurt anything.
If the PSX mode is working through a converter, then there is code in the main section that is running, which is a good sign. If the USB isn’t working then, then there is a good chance it’s not thinking it’s plugged into a USB jack. You should run the TE Kitty troubleshooting firmware, and use it when connecting to a PC so we can see what activity the chip is seeing on the lines. If you’re right and that cable fubared a pin, then we’ll know which one and how by using the troubleshooting firmware.
That’s not really much to go on. Why can’t you flash the firmware?
VS harness will be around, no worries there.
For PS2/DC support, check the user’s guide linked in the first post.