Sorry for the late response to this issue. Changed jobs and moved house all at once, which killed all my play time for a few months.
Followed your instructions as posted, and snapped the pics of the turbo panel as requested, you can view them at this link.
http://flickr.com/gp/commandertim/8oAcz7/
Thanks!
Just received the VS kitty board. Installing it now. I’ll take some pictures in the process of installation. The plastic part were you need to dremel off, I just used a pair of dikes and cut enough off so the kitty board sit over it.
I just got everything together but I think the wire harness to the turbo/guide board is wired wrong
http://img.tapatalk.com/47af0083-4fe4-85a7.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/47af0083-5016-b222.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/47af0083-5034-850f.jpg
Edit. I just checked the harness and the wiring. It is pinned incorrectly. I’ll take apart the connector and repin the wires.
Edit. I took each wire out of the connector that goes to the turbo/guide pcb (long 7 wires connector with one single wire and six banded wires)and relocated the pins. They are wired backwards.
Incorrect wiring
http://img.tapatalk.com/47af0083-b726-3bfe.jpg
Correct wiring
Finished putting everything together. Boy does the wires look messy lol.
Just installed a Kitty in a buddy’s TE Round 2.
My first shot at with a Kitty (already worked with Cthulhus, Imps, ChImps), and I gotta say, major props to you Toodles, for making a nice plug-and-play solution. Too bad I don’t use Mad Catz products personally, otherwise, I’d use a Kitty as well. 
Anyhow, I found a nifty place to put in the RJ-45 pass-through:
The width of a Neutrik panel fits the side-block perfectly. The only problem is that a Neutrik RJ-45 pass-through has too much bulk on the inside to fit in there without some major dremeling; a Switchcraft one fit in perfectly after having just the 24mm hole drilled.
That looks really clean, nice job on that.
i hope that was the only one Bapex. glad u got it working.
I ordered two kits and both of them were like that. I had to switch the wiring around on that one end of the connector.
So how does it behave when you go into bootloader mode?
Sweet. Except for the impending fear of VS harness problems, but I’ll know more about that in a bit.
First thing to do would be to make sure the Kitty will work with a minimum of components. Leave the three ribbons connecting it to the LED/turbo panel, and disconnect everything else from it for the time being. If you have a spare destroyable USB cable you can use that has the properly colored wires in it, attach them to the screw terminals; if not, try your RJ-45->USB cables plugged directly into the Kitty. Hold down Guide, and plug in. Guide LEDs should show you in bootloader mode. That part at least has been consistent for you.
Once that’s done, use your meter to take voltage measurements (lowest voltage range >5v, usually 20V.) and measure the voltages at pin 1 (OD+), pin 8(OD-), pin 2 (KD+), pin 10 (KD-)
Please let me know what you see.
I’d suggest leaving the resistors and poppoing off the diodes instead. They’re on the bottom, labelled D1-D8. Leave D9 alone, that’s the one doing the Turbo=Turbo+Select function.
Future stuff should be fun, but I’d rather not talk about it, or I’ll be spending all of my time fielding questions about it rather than actually making it, and I know which of the two I consider more fun
Im glad to come back to some good news. Enjoy, and please tell your friends.
Im not sure what to say at this point. The TE IS detecting a PSX; compare the photos to the readme and you’ll see that the detected console, #1, is PSX. I’m also assuming because the LEDs are so bright that you’re testing on the xtokki; which is fine, that converter works peachy in every instance I’ve ever heard of. What seems left has to be the specific lines that the Kitty controls to talk back to the PSX/converter. Those can’t be checked without some hardware like an oscilliscope.
Can you plug in the RJ-45/PSX cable (the one used with the Chun if different; if you have only one, then that one) directly into the Kitty’s RJ45 jack please?
I’m sorry you had to deal with swapping wires like that; I’ll be going over the cables tonight to find out if the whole batch is messed up. I hope to post up as soon as I can.
That is a very clean looking install, well done.
Bapex, you’re absolutely right, those harnesses were assembled incorrectly. It sounds like you changed them around yourself; I apologize again for the mistake and very much appreciate you bringing it to my attention.
The ones that went out on Thursday will be fubared; I’ll go over the orders and send out replacements and emails to the few people who have received bum cables or have them en route.
All of the orders for VS harnesses that go out from here on out will not have this flaw, including all of the orders that came in over the weekend that have not yet shipped. Please let me know if anyone has any questions.
Nope: as requested, those photos are of the TE-S plugged directly into a silver PS2 slim, although it does the exact same thing with the Xtokki. I too thought it was odd the LEDs were coming on so bright, and on the Chun-Li TE-S with the same cable, the LEDs are dim as expected and it works with no issue.
I’ll load it back up with the troubleshooting firmware and do a direct plug into the RJ45 on the Kitty itself. Thanks!
It’s no big deal changing the wires around it was easy, its not like working on a car where I would have to find the wires through couple hundreds of wires just to fix a few wires and run them through haha.
Made a fresh PSX cable tonight, tested it with the Chun-Li TE-S on the same PS2 slim: works (just like the other cable)
Plugged it into the Ryu TE-S on the PS2 slim:
RJ-45 jack on the back of the stick: same results as before (with bright lights)
RJ-45 jack on the Kitty: same results (again, with bright lights)
I got nothing. o_O
[S]I seem to be having a problem with the Kitty. The buttons are working and it switches between modes just fine, but the only directions that work are DownLeft and Down. I’ve re-inserted the clips but only those two seem to work.[/S]
[S]What are the potential reasons for this problem and what can I do to fix them?[/S]
EDIT: PROBLEM SOLVED I was putting the clip in backwards. That’s embarrassing…
Hey Toods, I have encountered one more issue. I looked through the thread but I couldn’t find anything on this (though it’s possible I missed it). I’m holding down the Turbo+LS to get it to register on the PC version of AE, but it’s in constant turbo mode. I haven’t tried it on the 360. What can I do to play on regular mode?
Everything is working 100% on the PS3.
This is a really fantastic product and I’ve already told some people about it! I was recommended this product by someone who has never actually used the Kitty itself, but trusts the other products of yours he has used Thought you might find that interesting.
Tetris Mode, Toodles… make it happen man 
Non, no, I’d prefer a cylon mode with turbo leds, just like the FGWidget led controller 
Installing the kitty into the VS is kind of a pain with the cover for the pcb unless you can find washers for two of the mounting screws. Installing the cover back you’ll have to fish it under some of the harnesses or mount the cover on first then plug the harnesses into the kitty board afterwards. Mainly it’s the JLF harness that gets in the way.
Im thinking.
FAQs, second post.
You dont wanna see my todo list right now XD
There is very little gap between the end of the pins on the JLF board and the edge of the Kitty on the VS stick, no argument here, but it has been perfectly manageable in both of the VS sticks I’ve done (and a third coming shortly). I dont understand what you’re saying about the washers though.
If you don’t put the cover back you would need some plastic washers for the two screws that holds the cover cause without the cover the two screws doesn’t hold the pcb down on those two spots cause the holes on the pcb is wider than the screws itself. I tried to screw down the pcb without the cover but it didn’t hold and just went pass the pcb.