ThunderUnderpants: I’m not sure what you’re referring to in the Kitty manual. The only cable I see mentioned is the RJ-45 to RJ-45 cable, which can be used to connect the Kitty to an RJ-45 socket on the outside of your joystick. In that example the joystick’s pre-existing USB cable is not removed, so there is no need for an RJ-45 to USB cable unless you wish to do so. Offhand I don’t remember if Kitty supports USB over the RJ-45 jack.
As for the adapters you’ve linked, the first one is a network interface device (i.e. it provides access to a 10/100 Base-T LAN to a device that has a USB port) and will definitely not be useful for your purpose. The second doesn’t provide any data as to what it actually is, but judging by the pictures I would guess it’s a passive adapter where USB pin 1 is connected to RJ-45 pin 1, etc. and is intended for transfering files over a USB cable (and two of the adapters). USB only has four wires, so unless all your consoles use four wires or less, this will not be useful either.
RJ-45 is the name of the physical connector only - the type of data you’re sending over those wires is completely unrelated. The purpose of using RJ-45 plugs for game controllers is so that you only need one socket for all consoles, instead of say 5 different sockets for 5 consoles. Some of the advantages of RJ-45 are that it’s fairly cheap, fairly secure, and has a large number of wires (which are necessary for systems that don’t use a serial connection).
Toodles, when are you expecting a restock on the TE kitty? Also, do you have any experience with using the kitty in conjunction with a sparky led controller?
The sad thing is, I have plenty of Kitty boards. Im out of the ribbon cables They were ordered three weeks ago, but I still dont have an ETA on them, and likely wont until a couple of days before they arrive.
I have zero experience with the Sparky, sorry.
Thank you for the quick response, hopefully the ribbon cables are in that fast As far as the sparky, I figured it was an outside shot…considering you make the widget after all. Kitty first, then maybe lighting later on. Thanks again
Thank you, I’ll keep that in mind. Right now, I’ll have a sparky going in one stick, and a kitty going in another, just wanted to be prepared if I decided to light that second stick. What kind of errors were you getting?
Well tried resoldering the the CN ribbons again, same results. So I swapped the ribbons and still same results. My connections look good so I decided to try another Kitty board I had in another stick, yet again same results. I get button 5 to light up, and am able to get others to light up but ONLY when button 5 is held down. I can even do this without the CN2 ribbon is disconnected. Without CN1 connected I get NOTHING from the buttons at all. If I take the exposed connections and make them touch together the buttons all light up (1 - 10).
Joystick wise it works fine, even the LEDs light up and I was able to update the firmware. I also cannot get Start or Back(looks like they’re off CN2) to work at all, so I haven’t been able to get the kitty to start in 360 mode.
I think Mushbert misunderstood your question. You are asking about the RJ-45 crimped console cables, not the 12 inch internal cable correct? To use on 360 and PS3, you have two options. First you can wire the original USB to the Kitty PCB per the instructions. Second you can use the RJ-45 Neutrik jack by crimping a USB cord with a RJ-45 plug per the instructions (you can reuse the original cord for this). The method you described with using an RJ-45 cord and an adapter will not work, you need to have a USB or other appropriate console cable going from the Neutrik to the console. A standard RJ-45 cable won’t transmit the proper pin-out signals to the console.
You might not be able to see due to the “shine”, but I soldered pin1 to pin1, pin2 to pin2, etc. I did the same thing for the CN1 cable. Aside from poor soldering, what else could cause these issues??
Soldering the cable on backwards. You went by the coloring of the wire and not by the end. If you had kept the other end instead of that one,it would have worked.
Desolder the end, flip it over, resolder. You should be able to follow the pin marked ‘BACK’ on the distrobution panel, through the wire, to the pin marked ‘BACK’ on the main board.
Thanks Toodles, VS Stick TE Kitty install complete. You have the best products on the market If you’re ever in Oregon hit me up. Between my MC Cthulhus in my cabinet, 3 TE Kitties and two Sparks you’ve made my multi-console dreams come true. People always ask me “man how did you hook that stuff up?” I tell them Toodles truly is “GODLIKE”
Can someone assist me…
I bought a TE Kittyboard about 7-8 months ago.
installed on a regular SF4 TE fighstick
used it at EVO2011
been working fine, have custom made RJ-45 cords.
been using it for ps2\ps3\xbox360
about 2 months ago
my ps2 stopped detecting it.
I recently bought 2 professionally made
(PSX)RJ-45 cables from gummowned online.
and just came in and doesnt work. the LED’s Lightup indicating the buttons are being pressed nothing is outputting to the game
start\select\ short\strong heavy
etc
I have a ps2 to usb adapter for pc\ps3 and it doesnt detect itself.
i also tried it on my dreamcast with DC\PS2 convertor
any tips?
could myboard be fried?
any test i can do?
They were ordered three weeks ago, but I still dont have an ETA on them, and likely wont until a couple of days before they arrive.
As far as the sparky, I figured it was an outside shot…considering you make the widget after all. Kitty first, then maybe lighting later on. Thanks again