Not a clue.
Installed TE-Kitty into my VLX, and it caused unrest in Syria. Any idea what I did wrong?
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Come on now, folks. Toodles is not under any obligation to help you, but if you’re going to ask Toodles for help you’ve got to give him more information to go on; steps you followed, pictures, videos, anything really. From a tech person’s viewpoint, it’s almost painful to read. :-/
Update on my status…
I was about to take the pics and post em like you asked but I figured PE me give it a fourth try… I unhooked all wires and re wired the controller again and lo and behold, the damn thing works perfect now…
I guess the moral to the story is, don’t be dumb like me… Check and recheck…most likely it is user error…
Great product bro… Working 100 percent correct on Soul Calibur V stick…
Thanks…
Glad you got it figured out AJ56.
Updates on the SFxT sticks.
The Pro model I’ve been fighting with all weekend rather has me defeated at the moment. My brilliant idea for the install turned out to not be worth crap. So for the time being, the SFxT Pro stick has to remain unsupported. It can be done with a TE Kitty and TE-S harness, and there are pictures in this thread showing how others have done it, but I dont have instructions available for it, and won’t be of any help if you are unable to do it. I hope to revisit this in the near future but for now Im putting the Pro stick on the backburner.
The V.S. stick so far is looking really good. If you cut that corner piece next to the mainboard with strong clippers or a dremel, the TE Kitty board sits down as pretty as you could please. So things are looking really good there. I hope to have this bad boy done by later today. The bad news: Im not seeing any way around cutting that piece. This may be the first ‘dremel required’ mod I support. Also, the existing TE-S harnesses appear to not be long enough to reach the uber far away button distro board. That means I’ll have to get a V.S. Kitty Harness made if nothing else jumps out as a problem. For those that must absolutely avoid soldering, that means there will be a long wait until the V.S. harnesses are made and up for sale. For the more adventurous, I hope to have pictures up to show how to use the existing ribbon cables and TE-S harnesses to solder together a longer cable. Also, the usual 12" ethernet cable is not long enough to reach from Kitty to Back button hole, so I’ll have to do some research to hunt down 18" ethernet cables to stock. Wish me luck and hope for pictures later today.
Kitty install in the 360 V.S. is done, and there were no differences except for the two points I already mentioned; the ribbons to the button distro board are currently too short, and that little corner piece needs a quick dremeling. Once those two things were handled, smooth as butter. If anything, it felt a lot easier than a normal TE install because the clearance/depth in that spot around the main PCB is a bit higher, meaning more room for the ribbons going everywhere, less smooshing everything down to get it closed.
I’ll get to ordering the VS harnesses and I’ll definitely post up when they’re in along with a new installation guide and longer ethernet cables for VS RJ45 installs.
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Toodles, I just wanted to thank you again. The SPDT switch installation was flawless and worked correctly from the get-go. Thank you for your great advice and service. I will absolutely order from you again whenever that time may be.
If you are using a cord with a RJ-45 plug crimped on then it may be a bad crimp. When I did mine the first time I had similar symptoms and recrimping my cord solved the issue.
Glad you got it working right.
This is incorrect. The Kitty autodetects quite well.
Oh really? My apologies. I’ve only tested on PC/PS3 and jumped to the assumption that it just defaulted to the Kitty board even when plugged into a 360 since it did it on PC. I’ve corrected the post, thank you for looking out.
Not that I mind, and forgive me if I missed it, but is there any way I can have the board default to the TE PCB when plugged into a PC?
Nope. Do you have any particular reason why you’d want it to?
Just for personal consistency since all of my other sticks are X360. It’s perfectly fine though and not an issue at all.
I think you’ll find Kitty far more suited to PC use than the Madcatz board. The LS/DP/RS switch is actually usefull; most games will only use X/Y axis for directions, which is LS on the Kitty, and doesn’t exist for the Madcatz. Home button doesnt exist on the Madcatz on PC. And you can edit the name the Kitty shows up as on a PC t be anything you want.
What about the Xbox button to bring up the dashboard on a Windows Live game?
True, the GFLW lives can make use of it for that, but no non-GFWL games can. That’s why you can’t set the button to Coin in MAME or any other game.
Yep, though in something like MAME I’d usually set Coin as Select/Back as it wouldn’t otherwise be used, and it’s right next to the Start button.
There’s no reason not to use Kitty mode for a PC, it’s just my preference to use it in 360 mode for the Live button on something like SF4. Even so it’s hardly a chore to set the slider to enter 360 mode so I’m not sure if a Dual Strike style ‘default mode’ option would be worth developing.
Toodles in the VS stick bridging of harnesses, does it matter which original button harness is used in conjuction with the TE-S harness? It could be my soldering, but I’m only getting certain buttons to work. Start/Back don’t work either. BTW Spark works great.
Im not sure I understand. I used the original existing 6 pin ribbons that were in the VS initially. The way the two ribbons in the TE-S kit are are exactly what you need, except the long ribbon isnt long enough. You’re just extending it by splicing in the original cable. Post up pics if you need something more specific.
I’m asking does it matter what ribbon cable goes to TE-S harness? Would swapping them cause any issues? I wouldn’t think so but I’m getting strange results, again it could also be my soldering.
As long as they use all six pins and end in a six pin JST PH connector, no. It does matter which ribbon plugs in where, but it doesn’t matter what you used to extend their length.
Small question seeing that I didn’t see it covered in here (warning: This will probably be the dumbest question you’ll get).
In regards to the RJ-45 tutorial mentioned in the Kitty PDF, if I wanted to connect the TE into a console, would I have to make an RJ-45 to USB cable (as shown in the Kitty User’s guide), or can I get away with using an RJ-45 to USB adapter such as this one or this one (provided that I have a separate USB cable for that second one)?
Thanks in advance. I’m loving the Kitty board and I hope to work with this as soon as I get my hands on a 360 TE.