Helps quite a bit actually. Thanks, I’ll put the changes in shortly.
If you own a 360 VLX this is a must in my opinion. Install was SUPER easy, everything works as described. (Only tested 360 and PS3) Another amazing product from Toodles.
I plan on adding support through other consoles via RJ45 with the included jack but not sure how I want to go about it yet. I would like to keep the case stock if possible. Ideas welcome.
Looking forward to guide updates on button mapping and etc.
Thanks!
Now that I think about it, I do have a question about the upcoming Kitty for the Fighting Stick VX. Are you planning set it up the same way that I’m seeing with the VLX where the harness for the face buttons connect directly to the Kitty? Or are you going to assume that people who are going to use the Kitty will eventually replace the buttons and find a way to bypass the daughterboard?
Just got my TE Kitty today. Installation was a breeze. I’ve already ordered another board for myself and am going to tell all the folks around here how awesome the Kittys are. Also you don’t need to have USB and an RJ-45 cable attached. The RJ-45 can handle it all, which is very convenient.
I covered up some exposed wires (from the Kitty to the outgoing USB cable) and the LED issue hasn’t occurred again since then, but 2p still triggers both 2p and 4p both in 360 and Kitty mode. I just ran the bootleader test and the player LEDs lit up properly, and the LED issue isn’t showing up anymore.
Again, when there is no ribbon cable attached to the inner A B X Y LB section on the Kitty (ie, the cable that connects it to the TE terminal), the 2p triggers only 2p as it should. What’s strange to me is that the other end doesn’t even have to be plugged into the screw terminal which leads me to believe that there is something wrong with the actual ribbon cable.
Here’s a new one…
So I installed the TE Kitty. I also decided to have MC support via cat-5 cable to miniDIN-8 from the Neutrik mount. So here’s the problem…
When I plug in my cable, I get both the “2P” & “3P” LEDs slowly flashing on the guide button. And when attempting to activate button inputs, those lights are slowly flashing as well (when held down). However the stick is COMPLETELY unresponsive;by that I mean NOTHING from stick or buttons (other than the flashing LEDs indicating that they’re are being input) are communicating with the system (PS3).
Here was the only way I could remedy the problem: When the stick is plugged in via Neutrik mount, I MUST unplug then REPLUG the miniDIN-8 connector. Now, if I unplug & replug the cable from the mount… nothing. If I unplug & replug the USB from the PS3… nothing; the same flashing LEDs & a completely unresponsive stick. But for some unknown reason if I unplug the break-away from the miniDIN it’ll fire right up, everytime–always. I’ve testing this on both ports of the system and the problem is identical. I’d hate to think I’d have to do this silly superstitious looking routine just to get my stick working.
Thoughts Toodles???
Oh… and I should mention that the stick works completely fine when using the TE’s USB cable from the compartment.
It does sound like a short between the Y and LB lines, sure. Does the problem happen when its plugged into the Kitty but not plugged into the TE board? Can you check the ribbon with a multimeter?
The upper right and lower left Guide LEDs show that the main code has started; it’s out of the bootloader and trying to detect what console it is connected to. If it thinks it’s connected to something it isn’t like say Saturn or TG-16, it won’t have the ability to see its mistake and will appear stuck there. Long story short, wiring problem. Something is connected somewhere it shouldn’t be or not connected, likely in the either side of the the DIN-8 area.
Is the RJ-45 -> miniDIN doable? Yup, in fact that’s exactly how the cables I use have been setup.
But why then the auto-fix by unplugging then replugging the miniDIN?? That solution worked EVERY time without fail.
No idea. Plug your DINs together, test the eight pins on the RJ-45 end against the end pins on the console end (those will be fine) and then test all eight of the RJ-45 pins against the other seven looking for a short, and I’ll bet you find one. If by some weird reason you don’t, I’d look at the length of your cables: between the Kitty and Neutrik, between the Neutrick and the DIN, and from the DIN to the console end.
What I can say for sure is that if the Guide LEDs stay lit in the upper right and lower left, the stick is in detect mode and is seeing activity on the lines that doesn’t match what it should be seeing for a properly wired console cable.
I no longer have access to a multimeter right now, but I can tell you that the problem still occurs when it’s plugged into the Kitty but not plugged into the TE board. In other words, if nothing is connected to that spot, 2p only triggers 2p as it should. I’ll try to borrow a multimeter from a friend, but for now, is your guess a short between Y and LB in the ribbon cable like you said? It seems to make sense because those two points are right next to each other on the Kitty and TE boards.
If the LEDs for 2P and 4P both light up when 2P is pressed when the five pin ribbon is connected to the Kitty and nothing else, but not when the ribbon isnot plugged in, that does to a short in the ribbon. Verify that that is the case and I can send you a replacement if you’ll remind me of your zip code.
For better or worse, I think the Kitty PCB has made the resale value of the PS3 HORI VLX go down a lot. I am also noticing more and more people letting go of the PS3 VLX’s. I don’t even own a 360 but I want a 360 VLX so I can do this mod. Drop in red obsf-30 RG’s and a spark and your all set. Your looking at almost a $500 stick though.
That is indeed the case. Zip is 95757 and thanks. Though, wouldn’t it be easier and more convenient for you if I just sent you a Paypal payment for 10 cents? I don’t mind.
That would make it a bunch easier in fact. Do that and I’ll get a new 5 pin ribbon out to you.
Edit: Received, packed, and out in the mailbox.
so this is basically a easy install MC Cthulhu? Both have the same support and function similar. The kitty just has fun extras?
Yeah, sounds about right.
Ohhhh bacon, I am sold.
I’ve seen these lovelies on here uninstalled
but can someone post a picture them installed I want to gawk :love:
Toodles.
Can you ever add Neo Geo support for your stuff? That would be…awesome.
how is the kitty and fwidget compat.? can we solder to points on the bottom of the kitty to the fwidget