Official 'Kitty' class boards thread

Hey Toodles, Could you explain more about the Custom USB string for the TE Kitty? I am not sure what that means.

Although a slightly less than conventional install; here you go.

And since this photo was taken, I’ve already taken a small flathead & pushed down that protruding wire of that ribbon cable.

Ohhh… and Toodles, that problem I was having with the the stick being stuck on the bootloader magically went away. That problem only persisted <10 min, then ultimately ceased. But I think this may have been the cause… (you could better tell me) when I re-disassembled the case I noticed that I had those yellow wires pictured (which at the time were not connected to any switches), both literally sandwiched between both the Kitty and TE PCB. I imagine that could wreak havoc?

But the auto-fix of unplugging the miniDIN & then replugging… I think will forever remain a mystery.

Just curious, but any reason why you didn’t install the board 180 (basically flipping it so the notched side is on the bottom of the TE?) It seems like the notch was put there so the board had clearance for the bottom-middle post. Did you have to modify anything?

Yes, the reason it’s flipped 180 is because I ordered a custom panel from Blklightning who makes replaceable metal panels for the TE/HRAPS/& other production sticks. I don’t yet have the panel in hand, but I knew with the new position of the [now lowered] joystick hole that I’d run into clearance issues with mounting Fantas & Seimitsus if I didn’t make some room ahead of time. So I took the liberty of cutting out >1" of the black plastic molding (look more closely at the first pic, you can see the corners of the original "square)*, as well as moving both the Kitty & TE PCB between those two posts. You can see in pic #2 & #3 that the posts flank the boards. If the Kitty board was a cunt hair greater in length, it wouldn’t have fit; so I just got lucky on that one. Been working on this mod for months now, hopefully soon I can actually play a game with it…

Ordering directions posted in the first post.

I plan on getting Teasy Strike to use with Sparky.

I have both a TE and a VLX and want to install Sparky in both…are there plans to include that expansion connector for connecting a Sparky to it on the Kitties?

That would be awesome :slight_smile:

Question about ordering.

Hi Toodles.

I am very new to this whole dual modding the VLX. I just ordered one from Japan and should have it in a few weeks. Can you please have a VLX Kitty (complete kit) put aside for me. Please make sure you test it and include everything I need to make this modding experience painless. Thanks.

There aren’t any plans as of yet from my end, but this wouldn’t prevent you from simply soldering wires to the required connection points. P1-4, K1-4 VCC/GND, 10 wires, done and done.

I do believe that Toodles has some long term plans for a RGB controller of his own. Might even be integrating into existing board, donno, you can always reach out to him. He’s got alot up his sleeve in terms of development :slight_smile: whereby my focus is only on the Sparky.

Hello Toodles.

Today I am going to place a order for the Kitty VLX. Just want to verify before sending the funds through paypal that you have one kit available. I dont understand anything about Guide LEDs for direction, USB Custom strings and On the fly button remapping. There was nothing that was in detail about these features on your instruction manual. It would be great to take FULL advantage of this kit you put together. Thank you.

No soldering experience.

I would be comfortable learning and doing it myself if there was a good video tutorial showing the exact process.

I think a lot of people would be interested in it too!

PMed you sir for my order. i am now ready

Maybe the pictures in the install guides would help? Links in first post.

You can always add a DB-15 to your stick, or use a FGW Converter to make your own RJ-45 -> Neo cord. Details on the FGW Converter are linked in the first post of the Cthulhu thread, but either option is a bit outside of what I’d consider supported, so please understand that I won’t be able to help in the Cthulhu or Kitty threads.

They are compatable. Stick and button signals on the VLX connector were listed earlier in this thread, and VCC can be tapped from the unlabelled hole #2. Look in the lower right corner of the board and you’ll see six unlabelled holes. The one with a line through it is hole #1; the one next to it is VCC.
TE Kitty signals are labelled on the bottom of the board. VCC is best tapped from the last screw terminal (XBOX section, ‘V Red’ point).

(Hating the fact that SRK ate my first response :frowning: )
The USB string is the text that shows up when you plug the stick into a PC. For the TE Kitty, the default is ‘Kitty TE Edition’, but the text is stored in an unencrypted part of the firmware. So, if I can find someone who knows a little VB enough to edit text files, I can put up all of the info they’d need to make a program that allows you to edit the USB string on your stick. If I did it myself, it’d be command line, and that rarely goes over well.

  1. Still possible with the ‘shove wires into connectors’ method.
  2. I wont be able to help with that.
  1. There is nothing to know or do. When not on an Xbox360, the Guide LEDs will light up the direction the stick is in. That’s it.
  2. Short information given above.
  3. I’m still writing a manual of sorts to detail this. Since it needs to have information for every supported console, it’s taking a little bit. Please be patient. If you keep the VLX layout the same as it came from the box and don’t move around the button wires, you shouldn’t need to worry about the remapping at all.

All Kitty orders to date are boxed and out in the mail.

cool. ty sir

[media=youtube]l8-nXHQ9H5k"[/media] light em up :smiley:

Ribbon cable did the trick - thanks Toodles!

Looks awesome in action. Thanks for the video!

very nice sir. Toodles rocks.

There was some discussion about the Chun Li and BlazBlue sticks a bit back (mid-march, page 3 of this thread) where it was determined that they use a newer PCB than the rest of the TEs and weren’t supported due to the way the lock switch worked… Is that still the case?

I’ve got a BlazBlue stick I’d really like to mod with one. At the moment I’ve got an MC Cthulhu waiting to be put in it, but I’d much prefer a Kitty if possible…

Same situation; TE-S based sticks will need a separate wiring harness to go with the TE Kitty kit. I’ve got it laid out and will be ordering some samples tonight, but for the time being, TE Kitty doesn’t work in TE-S based sticks. I hope to have that fixed asap, but there is no ETA.

got my kitty’s in today!..that sounds so wrong. thanks toodles. i will let you know how they turn out

Probably godlike :rock: