Err, kinda/not really. I have an idea that would make it possible to replace a PS3 TE/SE board with a Kitty, but no idea how long it will be until that piece is ready.
How did the bootloader test go? Did the player LEDs light up properly? Is the LED issue still there in bootloader mode?
Gut reaction says its a mixup in the HRV ribbons between Kitty and daughterboard, but the bootloader test should have caught that.
It not that toodles doesn’t do it, its the fact that he CAN’T do it…for the time being. Xbox360 controllers have a security lock on their controller so third party cant make controllers without their consent. How the P360, Mayflash, and Qanba does it? I don’t know.
@toodles its awesome that you included RJ-45 on the board, but how do you wire up each controller for MC? such as the colored wire order for PS2, DC, etc.
He said ‘sans 360’. He wants the PS3 and the other MC console support in his PS3 stick. Which I can technically do, but I’d have to make a replacements for the board that goes under the LED/Guide/Turbo section as well.
Pins are the same GABCDEFV order used in rtdzign’s awesome RJ-45 thread. And if you try to wire up based on wire color, you’re asking for trouble.
It IS the same as rtd’s. He even said so in the second line you quoted heh.
He’s saying, don’t base wiring on color… check each line (multimeter ftw) because there’s a good chance different wires are different colors in different controller cables.
I can’t wait for the Fighting Stick VX version to get sorted out. You’re the best Toodles.
How different are the PCBs between the Fighting Stick VX and the HRAP VX? From what I’ve skimmed on a few j blogs and the PCB shots I’ve seen floating online, they look like they are identical.
Any chance of of implementing turbo functionality using the LED board as an indicator for the settings? (Possibly identical to how the standard TE functions.) I’ve seen you float the idea in the Cthulhu thread in the past, but there was the obvious problem of the fact that you had no way to communicate what you were setting to the user.
TE Kitty: Bottom most screw terminal (Xbox - V)
VLX Kitty: Theres a set of six holes to the left of the ‘1.6’ in the lower right corner. Second hole from the bottom. In a pinch, you can jam a wire into the right most pin of the ‘USB_TO_360’ connector.
VLX: The large ribbon connectors are the easiest spot. The row next to the notch has the signals, while the other row is all ground. Looking at the VLX Kitty with the large ribbon connectors on the lower left corner, the signals from left to right are:
Down
Up
Left
Right
A
X
B
Y
RT
RB
LB
LT
Start
Plug the other end of the ribbon cable into the smaller five pin header on the original TE board marked with ‘BE6’ and ‘BE7’.
Step 10:
One has five pins, the other has 6, so it is impossible to plug them in wrong.
Step 12:
If all eight buttons light up as expected and the player LEDs light as expected, then you’ve verified that the outgoing USB cable is screwed down properly, the three {of the} ribbon cables between the TE Kitty and LED/Guide/Turbo daughterboard, and the two ribbon cables between the TE Kitty and button distribution board are all connected properly.