Okey, but all 9 of them tiny black spots are there 
I can that a pic if you want to see that.
No kidding? Thatās surprising. You should see how theres a group of 4, another group of four, and one by itself off the side. Forget the one off to the side.
The two groups of four should also have a resistor close by next to them; same thing if thatās gone. Let me know or go ahead and post a pic.
Nopp, resistors are still there.
Yeah, better post up a pick of the bottom to let me see if something else if funky there.
not the best pic but it shows what it has to show.
EDIT: hmm i couldnt upload it so youāre gonna get a url for it
Huh, thatās weird. The oneās to worry about are the very bottom most ones in that pic; D3 and R4.
First, take a look at the writing on the top of the diode D3. There should be a light grey band on the end towards the resistor. I canāt really make it out from the picture for sure, but it should be obvious if you can see it. The band should be on the same side the on the other seven diodes.
Do you have a multimeter? Specifically youād need one that can measure diodes and a simple continuity test. Or you can say screw it and send it back for a replacement. With a meter, we can at least know for sure what the hangup is, and quite possibly fix it.
I cant really see the color of the band but I do think that there is something. Itās hard to see on this tiny thing
No I dont have a multimeter but i could borrow one from my school tomorow if thatās a must.
But you think that itās just the diod that not working right? I mean does the mod and stick still work without that diod? Itās not a must to have a led for my button.
Im sorry man, I should have been clearer.There is NOTHING important about the light-on-press stuff. Itās strictly for cheap thrills and has no affect on how the stick works in Kitty or 360 modes. You said that all of the buttons light up in the control panel, the turbo is activating the LED, all of which is good; this hunt was strictly for making the LED light up on press. If the buttons and stick all work properly, and donāt care about the LED light up part, forget about it. You could even pop off the diodes for the eight (NOT the ninth one, D9. that one serves a different purpose. D1-D8 are all fair game though) if you want none of the 8 buttons to light up at all.
Then im happy to do business with you ^^ I dont need that led.
Just came in to say that not only are the controls godlike, but the shipping/processing speed are TOO GODLIKE!!! I ordered on Saturday just before noon time, and even though no mail is done on a Sundayā¦Iām sitting with the box in my lap right now! O___O
If we didnāt hold locals on Monday nights starting around 6, then Iād be installing it right now. 
Incredible
Kei
Okay and so here we goā¦ Toodles longtime fan longtime supporter of your excellent work and support (I wonder do you even have time to play games with how much work you put into your products and supporting the forums). So I preordered the SF X Tekken VS. series stick for 360 of course and I also bought some clear sanwas with the standard color scheme. So first have you got some intel from markman whether the wiring is the same as the TE or TES (which I guess the most recent is the PRO) I wanted to install your kitty board in it so I could use it for tourneys where I may have to use the ps3. If you dont know whenever madcatz decides that I deserve my shiny new toy I will open it up for you and try to post as many pictures as possible for you. Thanks again for your great products.
Iāll definitely be trying to pick up a VS stick as soon as possible myself; Im sure the electronics are very similar to TE-S, but I dont know if the current board will mount cleanly under the mainboard like it does in a TE. Iāll do my best.
I just installed a Kitty in a SE. It went well, I didnāt need to do any troubleshooting or take too long figuring things out, but I have some notes.
To fit it, you must cut away the plastic in the way. You can use wire cutters to do this just fine (my $1 horrible Harbor Freight tiny wire cutters did well), which someone earlier in this thread said. Just put your wire cutters cut-side against the cylinder part, squeeze tight, let it snap, and if it doesnāt come right off you might want to take some pliers and wiggle it back and forth until the plastic bit comes free. The fins that protrude from the cylinder that would interfere with the Kitty should be totally removed when youāre done, and there should be almost none poking out of the bottom-inside. If the headset jack is in your way, just remove it for now.
One main difference from the TE installation guide is that you should leave only about 1 1/2" from the USB wire coming from the 360 PCB (play with it before cutting to figure out the bare minimum length youād need, then give yourself some slack). Reason is, if you cut it much further away, the strain relief might hold the USB cable too taut, and Iād worry about it putting too much strain on the wires in the screw-down terminals. What I did was to arrange the ribbon cables so the outgoing USB cable passed through them (instead of being on top of them) and tucked the outgoing cable under the bottom of the 360 PCB so it had the least strain on it. It felt decently slack (slacked?) before but it had more slack after doing this.
The Kitty will not rest in place after installing it (which it does in a TE), it rattles around underneath the 360 PCB. This should be fine (especially if you have enough slack in your outgoing USB cable), but I guess if youāre uneasy about this, you could get some high-strength adhesive velcro and attach it to the Kitty and SE and help it stay in place.
The most important thing about the Kittyās physical placement in a SE is that it covers part of the Short/Weak Kick/Bottom-Left/Xbox A/PS3 X button, and a part of your stick mount (at least where a JLF or stock MadCatz JLF knockoff would sit). The stick mount is conductive, and so are all those solder points on the bottom of the Kitty. So, do something to make it so the part of the Kitty that overlaps the mount canāt touch it. I took some electrical tape, cut it a bit bigger than the mount, and tucked/wrapped the ends around to the underside of the mount, and Iām confident that will hold up indefinitely. You could also cover the bottom of the Kitty with tape, or use hot glue to cover the touching part, or maybe use some of the excess holes in the Kitty to ziptie a protective bottom to it. Millions of ways to go about this.
Overall, other than the 5-10 min it takes to cut away the plastic (BTW, someone posted earlier in the thread what to cut away, if you want to check before ordering), and having to put electrical tape over the overlapping stick mount, itās not harder than a TE installation (in fact itās easier in some ways*). Just be sure to leave enough cable for the outgoing USB cable, unless you donāt care about your strain relief grommet, or are going to make a detachable cable or something, since Iām pretty sure if you cut the cable where you would for the TE it will be too short to use the grommet (or will have too much strain if you do use it).
*Ways that the SE installation is easier (most of this is true for anything involving opening a SE or TE):
-You can basically be as rough on the bottom screws as you want, unlike the TE where you could knock a bolt loose when taking off the top
-You donāt need to shove a ton of cables out of the way to close it up, I just folded the ribbon cables to sit flatter then put the bottom on
-Screwing the 360 PCB into all 4 screws is easy since the inner black rim of the TE isnāt in your way
-The USB cable is different than a TEās, and itās much easier to deal with that white fuzzy stuff in the cable, since itās actually plasticky on a SE (sort of like a torn grocery bag) and not fuzzy on a TE (like stuffed animal stuffing). It took me like 1/3 the usual time to cut the fuzzy stuff away.
-Conversely, itās harder to strip the wires of a SE, since the TEās black and red wires are a bit thicker. My wire strippers can strip those just fine with the smallest part of it, but I had no luck on the SEās cables.
Does it work on Soul calibor TE?
Yep. Requires the TE-S Harness as well, picking up a JLF-TE cable as well is recommended but not required.
Just ordered the Kitty and TE-S Harness for SFxT Fightstick Pro. Toodles, Iām aware that I might have to do some modifications to the case to make it all fit, but has anyone shown you photos or shared with you what they actually did to make it fit in the Fightstick Pro models?
I know butteroj did one, but I was wondering if you know of someone else who did this to their Fightstick Pro.
I dont recall seeing any pictures of it other than butterojās.
So i installed itā¦
GOOD SHIT TOODLES!!!
Glad ya like it. Please tell your friends. Hell, tell random people on the street.
Just successfully installed the Kitty in my Soul Calibur V TE. Had an initial problem that I successfully troubleshooted, so Iām sharing in case it helps someone else avoid headaches. The problem manifested with the following symptoms: PC recognized the Kitty in boot loader mode, top left and bottom right LEDs lit as expected, all button presses lit the turbo LEDs as well, firmware flashing appeared to be successful. However the stick would not show in the controller applet, and would not work on either consoles. It appeared as if the TE board was not getting power but the Kitty was, so I restripped the USB, which I had crimped with an RJ-45 and attached it directly to the screw terminals. Everything worked after that. I recrimped the RJ-45 and tried again, and everything worked now. So, even though my first crimp was done properly something went wrong with it. So if anyone sees similar symtoms as this, always recheck your RJ-45 crimps.