[S]I detached everything from the kitty, connected the USB cord to it, and plugged it into my computer. Nothing. Guess I gotta buy a new USB cord.[/S]
[S]Thanks for the help[/S]
[S]How could the USB cord have fried? I mean. It wasn’t even plugged in when it got yanked, and when everything’s connected to each other, then the LED’s all work, but nothing recognizes it. I believe you, I’m just frustrated[/S]
Edit: For whatever reason, after cutting the usb wire again, and rewiring that a third time it started working. I’ve got no clue but I’m happy it works haha.[S][/S]
Having problems with my TEKitty in 360 mode. The joystick doesn’t seem to be detected in 360 mode, but it is detected in Kitty mode. Buttons work completely in both. (The firmware is up to date as well)
After you force 360 mode on a PC, flipping the switch back to ‘DP’ should correct the problem. Also make sure the lower switch is set to ‘unlock’. Might be worth checking the 5pin joystick harness is also correctly attached from the TE pcb to the Kitty.
If you are still having trouble then hopefully Toodles can help.
Switching to ‘DP’ worked, but does that mean it will not work when in RS or LS when using the Kitty? I guess I was just expecting the “Axes” portion of the properties to show up still in 360 mode.
Thanks for the help though, this is good enough for what I need, I guess I’ll just have to pass on playing FPS’s on the stick.
Madcatz pcb, on a PC, wont report the stick as anything other than the POV hat, and then only when the slider is set to DP.
If you want to have the stick report as the LS or RS on a 360, you can do that. If you want the stick to report as the LS or RS on a PS3, you can do that. If you want the stick to report as the LS (X/Y) or as the RS (the L and Z axises I think?) on a PC, you can do that do, as long as you’re in Kitty mode. You can’t do that on a PC in Xbox360 mode; that’s not anything I can change, and has nothing to do with the Kitty. It’d be the same thing if the Kitty wasnt in there at all.
Pretty much. Setting to LS or RS disabled the the stick entirely, as far as windows is concerned, at least through the control panel. Maybe there’s something kinky with GFWL based games where they will work, but I’ve never tried it. Your basic emulators and PC games wont see it.
Hello Toodles, I wanted to ask your opinion on a situation you’ve probably heard before.
I currently have an old X360 SE stick that I want to get rid of. I was thinking that I could gut it and put it into one of Art’s TEK cases. I figured all I would need to do is order the case and a Kitty for a nice, solderless tri-mod solution. But as I was about to complete orders from both you and Art, I realized that it wouldn’t work out because of the turbo/guide panel. I spent hours trying to look for another solderless tri-mod solution with no hope. I’ve come to realize that if I want a tri-mod while still using the SE PCB, then I will need to resort to soldering. (Willing to learn, I guess.)
So my question is, which board will I need instead? I’m assuming that I’ll need a ChImp, but I want to make sure and hear it from the man himself. If that’s the case, then will I still need the turbo/guide panel after installing the ChImp?
Well, there’s always more than one way to do it.
The easiest is to see if Art has an option to keep using the turbo panel from the SE; a rectangular hole to match and a way to mount it. It would probably be complicated so I doubt it, but I dont know for sure. I’m going to assume that isn’t an option.
Next easiest option is to make sure there is a dedicated Home/Guide button on the stick. That’s the most important part of the LED panel. If you had a hole for a Guide/Home button (a standard 24mm like Start and Select), then you can get the ground and Guide (labelled XGUILD) wires of the ribbons that go from the Kitty to the LED board, and connect those to the Home/Guide button. Pretty simple, and shouldn’t require soldering if you can get a .110" QD crimped onto those thin wires. The upside is that I’m certain is doable with an Art case, its easy, and solderless. The downside is that you lose the LS/DP/RS slider; that means no forcing Xbox360 on a PC, no Puzzle Fighter or HDR on PS3, no Netflix on Xbox360, and PC games would have to use the POV hat instead of the more commonly used X/Y axis. There may be a couple of other spots that you’d wish you had the slider as well, so its not perfect.
Best answer to running without a turbo panel is to do the same thing as the previous option, but also drill a small hole for a SPDT or DPST toggle switch to mount on the case. Wire up the center tab to ground, one side to the RS signal, other side to the LS signal, and you’re done. You get all of the functionality of both boards except Turbo and Lock. Downside is that it would involve some light soldering. If you ask, you can probably get Art to add the mounting hole for the toggle switch so its laser cut instead of drilled by hand.
Using a Chimp is an option, certainly, but it would require much more soldering than that last option.
Got my Kitty TE S recently and tried to install it today. Everything seemed to go pretty well until I plugged it in to do a test, and got the most bizarre results.
LEDs are arranged like so (for clarity purposes in describing what’s going on):
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8
Holding down the guide button causes the top left and bottom right sections of the guide button to light up as expected. X and RB both cause 3 to light up. No other button lights up an LED normally. If either X or RB is held down, however, the bottom row of buttons will work, except the LED lights are backwards of what they should be. A lights up 8, B lights up 7, ect. The top row is unresponsive except for X and RB.
I feel like I’ve caused a short somewhere, or hopefully just got a cable or two in the wrong place. Any idea what could be causing this?
There’s a grand total of 19 signals going to that LED board, but it shouldn’t take too long to check them all. Please go through these in order and we aught to be able to see where the problem lies.
Plug it into a PC as normal, go into the Game Controller’s applet of the control panel, verify it shows up as a Kitty TE Edition
Go into the Properties page for that controller. Move the slider to DP, and move the stick around. You should see the stick directions show up in the lower right ‘POV Hat’ section of the proerties page, and you should see the green LEDs light up to match the joystick direction, two LEDs for cardinal directions, one LED for diagonal directions, in the same spot as the direction itself. Please verify this is all accurate. This would test the VCC, and four Guide LED lines.
Press the Guide button. You should see button #13 light up in the properties window. This would test XGUILD and GND. (make sure slider is set to ‘unlocked’)
Move the slider to the LS position and move the stick around. You should see the cursor in the X/Y axis section of the window move around. Move the slider to RS and you should see the analog axes move left to right. This tests the RS and LS signal lines and GND.
Press the Turbo button. You should see one of the buttons (9 or 10, I forget) light up. This tests the Turbo signal and GND.
Move slider to ‘locked’ and press Guide and the Start button. You should NOT see the Guide (13) or Start (9 or 10) light up. This tests the KGND signal.
Everything else is the button ‘turbo’ LEDs which you’ve already described rather well. If you can let me know how those tests above went, I aught to be able to get a clearer picture of what’s miswired where.
Shows up as Kitty TE Edition
Down and Down Left work, with both the POV Hat and Guide lights showing the proper direction. None of the other directions have a response.
Pressing Guide causes 13 to show up.
Slider set to LS, same behavior as when it was set to DP. Slider set to RS, I’m guessing same behavior, Z Rotation increased with Down and Down Left, Z Axis decreased with Down Left. No other directions responded.
Pressing Turbo lights up 9.
Setting it to Locked blocks off Guide and Start. Also, wasn’t mentioned before but Start and Back do not cause anything to light up in the control panel, locked or unlocked.
Thanks very much for your help. I’ll work on getting pictures after dinner if they’re still needed.
Very precise and straight to the point. I can’ thank you enough.
This sounds like the best option and I’m confident that I can do it. I’m assuming that if I can find the right toggle switch and Quick Disconnect for it (and the thin wires), I won’t have to resort to soldering?
Also, I see ‘R STICK’ and ‘L STICK’ labeled on the PCB, but which one is Ground? I don’t see a ‘GND’ label on that terminal, as well as the ‘XGUILD’ terminal.
The Down/DownLeft problem is because the ribbon going to your joystick is on backwards. Flip that and try it again and go through the steps again, and add this one afterwards:
7. Press each of the eight play buttons in order, and point out which number(s) light up in the properties page.
If you can get the wires for RSTICK and LSTICK to stay on the toggle switch, then there’s a good chance you can finish it without soldering; you just need a way to get ground there without soldering. You could shove a wire into a ground QD on a nearby button, and use that. Soldering is best, but it is a doable hack without soldering as long as you can get them to stay on the toggle switch.
On the LED board ribbons, ground is labelled GND, and is just next to the one labelled USBVCC on CN6.
