Works great, thanks a bunch, Toodles! 
Poop. I just installed my TE Kitty, and got to the test phase. My LT light wasnât coming on, but noticed that it registered with Turbo. Turned the Kitty over, and well⌠D8 isnât populated =(
Most often it will get knocked off during installation; check to see if there is a teeny tiny diode rattling around inside the case or in the bag it was shipped in. Either way, Iâd be happy to put another one for you if you want to send it back or you can try to put it back on yourself if youâd prefer.
Just successfully installed TE Kitty into the Madcatz Soul Calibur V. Everything works great. Thanks again Toodles.
With TE-S harness, correct?
Did the Kitty fit under the main board like with the other TEâs?
Yes to both.
Thatâs some awesome good news, thanks!
Yeah. When I took it apart everything looks the same as a TE-S the only thing that is different is the Shell and the layout.
I installed my TE Kitty yesterday into my Street Fighter IV FightStick. The install went smoothly but I have a very basic question. When connected to my Xbox 360 the joystick and buttons both work properly. When connected to my PC and PS3 in TE Kitty mode the joystick and buttons both work properly. When connected to my PC in Xbox 360 Mode (holding turbo as I plug the FightStick in), the buttons work but the joystick does not. I cannot get the joystick to light up in control panel and it does not work in any games. Is this normal behavior? I recall being able to use pre-modded FightStick on my PC without any issues but itâs been awhile since I have done that. I double checked the larger 5 pin ribbon cable and reseated it just to make sure it was not a bad connection.
The diode isnât in the bag, nor in the TE case. How important is it? If the diodes are only used for the LEDs, I might actually remove them all, so it doesnât light every time I use a button.
Well, if youâre using it on a PC, youâre just going to have better luck with everything in Kitty mode. But if you have to be in 360 mode on the PC, you have to have the slider set to âDPâ. Thatâs nothing to do with with the kitty, thatâs all the MadCatz.
The purpose of 8 of those 9 diodes is strictly to do the light up on press. If you want, removing them all to disable the light on press is definitely an option.
The 9th diode on the bottom is used so that pressing Turbo also presses Back, but not visa versa. I do recommend you leave that one on. That one is labelled D9, and is slightly away from the other 8 diodes.
Just thought Iâd post a small issue I am having. When setting the turbo buttons, the ledâs do not stay on. Instead, they just act normal. As far as I know, everything else works fine, but I donât know why the turbo lights donât come on. The turbo function itself works fine, but the lights only come on at button press. Any ideas? This is across all platforms, as well
Thatâs how it behaves when not in 360 mode. Itâs normal.
the TE Kitty is pretty baller - got mine installed with no fuss, a coworker brought in his ps3 so i could test it out and everything works so well, he ordered a Kitty for himself!
iâd advise anyone else soldering directly to the Kitty to come from the left/top with the USB wires; i came in from the right (habit) and had to nudge them a bit when putting the boards back in.
Iâm glad you like it.
I recently did a Kitty install on a local friendâs stick. What I did differently to get the full benefit of the soldering is:
- Use pliers to remove as much of the hot glue as possible from where the USB cord is plugged into the main TE board.
- Desolder the USB cable from the main TE board, and solder those five pieces to the outgoing USB through holes on the Kitty.
- Solder two 5-6" wires to the Xbox D+/D- on the Kitty. Attach all of the ribbon cables to the Kitty as normal, and set in the case properly.
- Solder the two wires from the Kitty to the bottom of the main TE board (so really, the solder was on the top of the main board, with no visible wires).
- Twist the board around so the D+ and D- wires are spiraling from the Kitty to the main TE board. Dont go two crazy where theyâll kink, just put a gentle twist in the wires; it helps with signal interference.Screw down main TE board.
- Attach all ribbons as normal.
Since the power and ground also come through the ribbon cables, you dont have to do those two, just the D+/D-. Sure doesnât hurt though.
Thatâs normal. I didnt want to risk pulling the lines down to light up the LEDs knowing that the board will check those lines soon afterwards.
So I had this installed, and it worked, but I tripped over my cord and it yanked the wires out of the screw terminals. I put them back in, closed the stick, and everything lights up, but it doesnât register on my computer as anything, and on my 360 the guide button doesnât come on, but the buttons register as presses on the turbo guide, but nothing actually works. I tried to flash the firmware, but it instantly closes.
What do I do?
Thanks for the tip! Switching to DP after plugging it in with RS + Turbo enabled me to use the joystick in 360 mode. While I will be using it primarily in Kitty mode on the PC, I wanted to make sure everything was working with both boards. This is my first mod and itâs been awhile since I have used the TE Fightstick. I have to say I am very impressed with both the design of the TE Kitty and the post install support. You rock Toodles!
Whatâre the odds you didnât fully reconnect the quick pull section at the end of the cord?
So everything worked, then you redid the USB cable and now it doesnât work. SoâŚmy guess is you either redid the USB incorrectly, killed the USB cord entirely, or knocked something else crucial inside the stick. Undo everything, and test the Kitty + USB cord on a PC. If it works, reassemble the whole thing. If it doesnât, cut the cord further down and retest. If the USB cord is dead, get a new one.
Whats the quick pull section?