- Force it into 360 mode on the PC, or use it on a 360. Turn on turbo for LB and test it to see if the red LED flashes. Post up the answer.
- Just to be clear, you DID see the percentages ticking in the DOS window?
- Do they flash when plugged into a 360? When plugged into a PC/PS3 normally, do the LEDs around Guide light up when you move the stick?
- The LED for Turbo mode does not come on. However, the button and turbo mode work on both the PC and the 360. It appears to be just the LED that is having issues.
- Now this is just weird. I plugged my TE into my main PC rather than my laptop this morning and it showed up as a Kitty TE Edition. I then plugged it back into my laptop and it now shows up as a Kitty TE Edition as well. I had to have done this 20 times last night and it always showed up as a Virtua Stick High Grade. The only thing I did differently was plug it into my main PC (which I had not done yet) instead of my laptop.
- OK, I screwed up here. I thought the LED’s you meant in the how-to was the button LED’s. You meant the Guide LED’s and yes they show up just fine. And yes, the guide LED’s light up when I move the stick around when plugged into a PC (I don’t have a ps3 handy to test on).
So, it would appear, the only actual problem I am having is the top rightmost LED not turning on or flashing when the button is pressing. Everything else is working as normal on the PC and the 360. Any ideas on how to fix that or what could be wrong?
I have another question: I wanna change the firmware so that it says “リアルアーケードPro.EX Premium VLX” when I connect the stick to the computer. Is it possible or will it result in something wrong?
Well, we’ll count that as progress. I think what happened with #2 is something was holding down buttons that forced the full VSHG emulation, but w/e, its going.
For the LED, if the 360 turbo doesnt activate the LEDs, then it has to be either a burned out LED or a wiring problem between the LED board and the TE pcb. Can you take a peek at the ‘R’ ribbon cable, going from the LED board to the Kitty? See if you can spot anything odd looking about it, especially on the wires on either side of the ribbon. If you see anything weird, post up about it.
If you dont see anything weird, there’s a quick test you can do to make sure the LED is working properly. Lift up the top panel of the stick, but leave it connected (or at least the buttons). Look at the bit of PCB sticking out from under the LED piece. You should see where the pins for the ribbon connectors are soldered, along with white silkscreen writing on the board, that labels each pin. The one with seven pins (CN4) has KGND written near the top pin, and the other end has blahblahLB, and blahblahY next to it.
Plug the stick into a PC. take a small piece of wire or a paperclip, and use it to touch both the blahblahLB and blahblahY pins together.
Now, in a perfectly working stick, when you do this and then press either the LB or Y button, both LEDs should light up. You should definitely see the Y LED light up when you press the LB button, otherwise your wire isn’t making contact. With the paperclip in place, hit the LB button, tell us what LEDs light up, and then press the Y button, and tell us what LEDs light up. We’ll go from there.
I’ve tried extended unicode support in the USB string on the MC Cthulhu, and it has yet to work properly. Please stick to your standard lower ASCII characters for the string.
I feared this answer. Well, if someone can tell me what’s the name under a stock VLX appear on Windows, I will stick to it and don’t try Unicode.
Thank you for your support.
I’ll check that tomorrow at work where I have much better lighting and tools. It’s probably a burnt out LED as you suggested but I’ll check the ribbon cable and do the paperclip test. TBH, it doesn’t really concern me all that much as long as the buttons themselves work.
Of course, with moving everything around constantly the green wire of the long USB cable came out of the screw down terminal. And once I got that fixed the white wire came out. Doesn’t help those are the thinnest damn wires and they barely want to be held in the screw down terminal. I may add a bit of solder to straighten them/beef them up as I’m not very comfy with them the way they are. I would have been way more comfortable with soldering down the wires than using the screwdown type 
You’re certainly able to do exactly that, in fact its recommended for exactly that reason. Look to the right of the screw terminals, there’s ten thru-hole pads; the ten holes are the exact same spots as the ten screw terminals on the side, and little white guide lines to show . Solder down the wires in those holes and you’re good to go with a more permanent connection than the screw terminals.
Oh hell yeah, I’ll definitely do that. Thank you!
Man, I’m looking at the inside of my TE, and I’m wondering how I’ll fit the bitch in there. 
Shouldn’t require but a small amount of tinkering.
so toodles, any eta on that Hrap VX SA kitty?
Nope, shortly after I figured it out, I figured out something even better that’s going to take some work to get done. There won’t be a HRAP or FS VX model Kitty. But I do plan on having a K.O.B.R.A. version for both. 
But I have no idea on if there will be a specific solution before Evo. At this point, going with a ChimpSMD or MC+Imp combo is likely your best option.
ok, so I’m not familiar with the K.O.B.R.A. that you’re speaking of but, will it be a easy mod much like the vlx kitty? assuming that the Kobra is a new board that you’re making to be compatible with both hrap and madcatz sticks. and if I really can’t wait, i’ll get the chimp, but i like the reversible mod idea that you originally had with VX SA kitty.
I really dont want to discuss too much about it; I dont want to setup expectations I can’t meet. Just please know that I will be doing my best to make an awesome product, and the HRAP VX and FS VX will not be forgotten in the equation.
This isn’t a ‘death of Kitty’ note. Kitties will be around for quite a while, but I dont see them expanding to cover other stick lines. If I have to make some weird wire harnesses to make them work on the V.S. or other related lines, I will certainly do that.
Just got mine and installed it with no problem at all in my MadCatz SE fightstick. The placement of the Kitty isn’t perfect, as I would expect it to be in a full TE, but regardless it fits well. Very easy to use product and I will be sure to recommend it to all of my friends looking to dual mod!
Quick question: I do not have a PS3 at my disposal so I’m just wondering if the Xbox guide button emulates the PS “guide button” when plugged into a ps3 system.
Yup. I tried to make it work the way people just naturally expect it to. So LS/DP/RS slider works the same on both modes, turbo works the same, Back is Select, Guide is Home, etc etc.
Only I and very few people have heard K.O.B.R.A. out the mouth of Toodles. :wgrin:
I decided to just strengthen the wires by tinning them and using the screw downs which seems to be working pretty well. So that issue is resolved.
Also, I did as you suggested and made a bridge between a couple of the contacts on the PCB of my joystick and the LB LED refuses to light up but any other contact the button is connected to will light up. So the button is good and the signal to the board is good but the LED is obviously burnt out. That sucks, I don’t think I’d ever even turned on turbo once to see if they all worked in the first place when I got my stick though. So no big deal and not really worth the effort and expense of tracking down a replacement.
I did run into one issue during this install though which kept me pretty confused. Using my Dell XPS laptop my stick, when simply plugged in without holding any buttons, would always show up as a Virtua Stick High Grade and not as Kitty TE Edition. Before and after the firmware upgrade. I plugged it into two other similar Dell XPS laptops (mine is an i7 and I have an i5 and i3 at work from the same series) and I also get Virtua Stick High Grade. If I plug the stick into my main computer at home it shows up at a Kitty TE Edition and then if I plug the stick back into my laptop it will show up as a Kitty TE Edition. So, very strange but it doesn’t appear to be a problem. Just a rare problem somebody may also have an issue with.
Thanks for the help Toodles!
is there a specific tutorial for the TE-S ? or it’s the same?
the documentation is slightly different
http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/kitty/TESKitty_Install.pdf
you also need the TE-S harness
Just curious, what do you think is the best way to cut the hole for that? I have a dremel and can use a standard cutting bit, but keeping it cut close to the correct size might be a little tricky.