Slide turbo to 3, hold back and turbo. (its only one of those, but I keep forgetting which one)
Nope, doesn’t kill itself in xbox mode
Stops rotating, but are any lit at all? Are they dimmer with 2 or 3 of the button LEDs going than without?
actually the other tidbits i listed above are incorrect,
i had misplaced the daughter board connectors and the daughter board wasn’t lighting up when that had happened
it could take going up to the amount i listed in the detailed post
if the board is correctly harnessed, then it freezes up at 3
i mean after 3
more new info, when i do force the LED input to close (LP, MP, HP) the kitty doesn’t freeze up on me…
when i press all 6 at the same time it still doesn’t freeze, only when the stick moves and the daughter board lights up
never mind, it still freezes up if i press all of them
The only reason I can think of for the LEDs to interfere is a matter of too much current draw. Im not familiar with how you have it wired up, but is there a way for you to measure the current going through a lit up white LED?
that’s what i was thinking as well. I should be able to measure the draw from the board in the arc-eye2’s
or maybe the datasheet for the LED’s will have the voltage
but if it is the power draw case, why isn’t the xbox side flopping as well?
sorry i forgot to mention these were arc-eye2’s
here’s the sparkfun stuff related to the arc-eye smd led’s
edit: as for how its wired up, its wired up as per tutorial. R G B voltage lines are daisy chained with one another and commons are hooked up 1 per button. as for detecting inputs, its standard install as well, hooking up the inputs to the corresponding pins on the pin connector of the kitty
Here’s one for you, Toodles (or anyone else that can offer input):
Two TE-S sticks. Both outfitted with TE Kitty kits. One is a Chun-Li TE-S, the other is a black Ryu TE-S. Both sticks work on every console I’ve tried them on: DC, Saturn, PS3, 360, PC…
EXCEPT a slim PS2.
The Chun-Li TE-S works perfectly: no problem there.
On the black TE-S, the 1 and 4 quads on the Guide button light up, stay lit for about 5 seconds, then go off. Then, when I move the joystick around, the Guide LEDs light up as they’re supposed to, but the Turbo LEDs do not. However, no inputs are registered on the PS2 at all.
I’ve run the gamut on standard troubleshooting: plug in then power, plug in while powered, different cables, I’ve even tried different joysticks (both Seimitsu and Sanwa) just to rule that out. Nothing. Still get the 1 and 4 quadrants for 5 seconds and no input. I’ve confirmed again and again that the black TE-S works on the other systems; it’s just this slim PS2 that gives me issues.
[edit]
Hooked the black TE-S up to my 360 using my eTokki adapter: same deal. 1 and 4 quads and then nothing. But again, the Chun-Li works.
Any ideas on what might be happening?
so, I unhooked all the terminals and plugged them back in, visually checked them for any issues…and nada. Still not lighting up.
i will look thru the 23 pages but just asking how do you force PC/PS3 mode with the te kitty? thanks
it is being plugged into the ps3 and the 1p guide led lights up as if it thinks its in xbox mode. but it is in unlock and dp setting
EDIT: its rs and hold start
okay toodles, i had a feeling it was the kitty so i’m just replacing the kitty with a chimp smd so don’t you don’t need to worry about what’s going on with that one.
edit:
works 100% with a chimp. Could it be how the kitty handled voltage since it also outputs at 3.7v for ps2?
Toodles, VLX Kitty can be used in VX SA ?
No, VLX Kitty can be used in the VLX.
YES, I think I just figured out how to do the HRAP VX. So, FS VX and HRAP VX work is now underway. It still means month+ of prototyping and testing, and 2-3 months for production, but the roadblock I’ve been facing (how to handle the soldered on wires and almost no room to work with) now appears to be surmountable.
: D
I can only imagine the amount of crimping/stripping needed to do either of those sticks.
None of either if what Im picturing works as planned. 
That was my big hangup, all of my idea were, well, unclean. With what I have pictured, if you installed it, and then removed it back to factory specs, the only evidence would be imperceptable cuts from the IDC in the wire installation on the play button signal wires.
I know someone asked back mid-december, but any update on when the TE-S Harness will be back in?
alright, here’s a fun one for you Tood. I have a 360 MLG TE, and I installed a Kitty (with the TE-S harness) right after I got it. It’s having two issues.
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like I said before, the 3P button doesn’t light up, either when it’s pressed or when turbo is activated. It worked before the Kitty was installed. I’ve tried rewiring also, but the problem persisted.
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Every few times I plug it in, the PS3 compatibility gets screwed up. The square, L2, and R1 buttons deactivate and won’t work at all. I’ve found that if I rapidly press the L2 and R1 buttons at the same time, L2 will trigger some of the time. If I flash the firmware and reinstall, it goes back to normal and works fine.
i wonder if you mixed up your harnesses coming from the button distro