As my last post in here stated, I blew the original PCB in my TE-S trying to dual mod it with a Kitty (my fault entirely. I know where I fucked up). I came across the Round 1 (2nd batch) TE Xbox PCB and was wondering if I could throw it in the TE-S with the Kitty and restore the dual mod functionality.
Can you let me know what you did that caused the blow out? I’d appreciate it so I can warn folks about it.
Can you use the pcb from a TE in its place? Sure, but its a question of what all pieces you have. The main board, the LED board, and the distro board are all three different between the TE and TE-S models. If you can swap out all three, then it’s easy, just use the regular TE guide. Using a mix gets a little complicated, but can be do able. Let me know which pieces you have and I’ll if I can 'splain how to do it. But it’ll be hackish because of the mix’n’match.
I fucked up on step 11. “Screw Down the Outgoing USB Cable”
Instead of plugging the red wire into the 5th terminal from the top, I plugged into the 6th one from the top, thinking that the red one went directly above the black wire on step 6. I was anxious. Hooked it all up and got the pop and smoke that fried the Xbox PCB. All I can say is make sure your wiring matches the picture you provided, otherwise you’ll end up like me.
For now all I really have is the Xbox TE PCB. I’m not worried too much about it since it still works on my PS3, but I do want the dual mod since I plan on getting an Xbox for my home office. I may convince myself to buy another Xbox TE-S if push comes to shove.
Alright, first the TE-S LED panel to the main Kitty pcb:
The two standard ribbon cables remain the same (the H and R ribbons). Take the funky TE-S ribbon cable and cut that single wire that connects the two ribbons together. Use the longer ribbon to connect the TE-S LED panel to the Kitty in the outside V ribbon spot.
Kitty pcb to main TE board (LED half):
The H and R ribbons are the same standard ones included with the Kitty kit. Use another of those from the Kitty kit to connect the V spot on the Kitty to the main TE pcb.
TE-S distro board to Kitty pcb:
First, you need to get a separate piece of wire to connect the GND and KGND lines. Locate the QDs for the Back button, and unplug the one on the side AWAY from the ribbon cables. Do the same for one of the other buttons next to is, as long as its NOT start. You want to take a wire, strip some insulation off both ends, and put those QDs back in place with the wire ends shoved in as well. That would connect KGND to GND, so the lock switch wont disable the start and select buttons.
Take the ribbons marked ‘6’ and ‘5’ from the TE-S kit and connect them as normal to the distro board. Plug the FAR end of the 5 and 6 ribbons into the Kitty. For the middle connector of those ribbons, do not plug the middle of the 5 ribbon into anything. The middle connector of the 6 ribbon should plug into the CN2 on the main TE board as instructed in the TE-S manual.
Kitty to main TE board, buttons half:
Plug one of the original TE 5 pin ribbons into the main TE board CN1, and the other end into the empty 5 pin connector next to where that ribbon ‘5’ is plugged into.
I think that’ll do it.
Do you happen to know how long it will be before you’ll get the Type-S harness for the TE Kitty? Nerrage was kind enough to link me to your product in another thread and I went to purchase but noticed it was out of stock 
Thank you.
Honestly, I don’t. The order was already placed and paid for, and I asked for them to rush it before their had the holidays. But sadly, no ETA. I’m hoping to for end of January, but no way to know until its on its way.
Well, it doesn’t sound like there is much you can do about that…oh well! I still want to get a bit more consistent before I head to some of my local scene events (which appear to be typically PS3 dominated…hence me needing to mod my stick). This will just give me more time 
Do you have any sort of notification system for when things come in or should I just bookmark the site and check back from time to time?
Just stay subscribed to this thread, I’ll definitely post up when they arrive.
Will do, thanks again. And if you get a chance to respond to my question about the Spark in the other thread that would be cool I’m pretty curious about it but there is almost no info at all on how it plays, feels, sensitive comparison, sound etc.
Yo, I put a Kitty into my new MLG TE last week, and it’s definitely the best multi-console mod i’ve ever seen or done. One small issue, for some reason the red light for my 4P button isn’t working. I cant remember if it ever worked in the first place after I modded it…but given how entranced I was by the lights I think I would have noticed. Any idea what could cause that? Note that the button and turbo functionality work fine, it just won’t light up.
I have the same problem with the same button on my Chun TE-S. I didn’t pay much mind to it since everything functions though. I know I measured the voltage across the LED when the button was pressed/not pressed and I want to say for me it wasn’t getting pulled down all the way. If you end up doing the same I’ll search back through the thread and see what the values I got were.
Plug it into a 360 or into a computer with the 360 mode forced, and set turbo for that button.
If the LED flashes to show the turbo, but the problem is likely the resistor or diode controlling the LED on the bottom side of the Kitty
If the LED doesnt flash to show turbo, then the problem is either in the ribbon cable connecting LED board to Kitty, ot with the LED board itself.
Just ordered a TE kitty, about time I got around to doing this. I have a round 2 TE, so hopefully that means I don’t need the TE-S wires. Hopefully I won’t screw anything up, your directions seem pretty full proof. Thanks in advance for this great service.
Yeah, the LED doesn’t flash.
Check over the H and R ribbon cables.
Toodles you’re awesome. good looking out
question toodles
i just put a sparky pwm from 32teeth into a VLX kitty
i don’t know why but it freezes up on my pc after a bit of time on it
it works fine for xbox and i can keep it there without it freezing up on me,
on ps3 and pc it does tend to freeze up either
-after a while
or
-stress testing by putting on all 6 RGB led’s on white while spinning the joystick to make the turbo panel xbox controller lights rotate
the VCC is hooked up directly to the 5v line that goes to the usb
i’m going to try to hook it up to the one that goes to the xbox360 board but i’m not sure if that will yield results
any thoughts?
Does the same thing happen in forced 360 mode on the PC?
hmm let me check
what was the force 360 input again?
LK, MP, HK?
since the VLX has that ms layout is it A X RT? or is it like PS with x, triangle R2?
xbox mandated layout has it at
B X Y
A LT RT
its set to 6 button only
i’ve tried both but the force hasn’t happened.
I swapped the vcc’s to figure out that nothing has really changed
more info that may/may not be helpful
daughter board lights stop rotating when i get up to 4 LED’s at once but still registers on PC,
entire thing stops wanting to read inputs at 6, but the boards are still being powered,
on PC it just stops registering stuff, closing it up and bringing it back up will just show that nothing is being pressed when the LED’s are registering