Is this also true of the TE-S? I cut the glue on mine to have some extra room to work for a button swap, and so far it seems to be staying on pretty well with just friction fit. I’ve had occasional issues with directional inputs not being recognized, but that was always because the stick was in LS mode, which was dodgy even before I first cracked it open.
Yes.
If it works for you as is, then dont sweat it. If it ever comes off down the road, or if you ever put it on backwards, just remember it doesn’t have to be that way 
Just ordered a Kitty and TE-S harness, thanks dude, I’m excited. I got a package from you about a week ago with some FGW converters and a Cthulhu, and I actually just finished the Cthulhu install a few hours ago. I do have a quick question though.
My current stick has a Teasy Strike in it, and for various reasons I want to switch to a Kitty (when I modded it I didn’t think I was going to need multiconsole support, now I do). I’m giving the Teasy Strike to a friend after. For the teasy strike install, I had to remove the USB connector from the Madcatz PCB, but I noticed that for the Kitty install (IIRC, I glanced at the installation a while back, working off of memory here) it still needs the USB connected to the Madcatz PCB (and then cut away but with some cable left on there).
My original plan was to do some open heart surgery and transplant the PCBs (both are TE-S’es) so that my stick would have his pcb which still had the USB attached but that relies on me doing both at once (he lives 3 hours away, I’m not sure when he’s visiting next) and just seems like unnecessary complication. In theory I can just solder the USB line back to the Madcatz PCB in my stick and it should be as simple as that, right? I don’t think I’m missing anything here, but I wanted to double check so I can just get this mod out of the way as early as possible.
I wouldn’t both trying to re-solder the outgoing USB cable back to the main TE board. What I’d do instead is solder four wires to the USB spots on the main TE board, so you can screw down or solder the other ends to the Kitty. The outgoing USB cord will be plenty long enough to reach the screw terminals, so just expose the ends of those wires and screw them down as normal.
Didn’t even think about that, thanks!
Toodles, the shipping method you choose for my country, have a tracking option ?
Nope. Priority mail international takes about 2 weeks to arrive, and doesn’t have any tracking worth a damn. It’ll say ‘Toodles dropped it off at the post office on X day at Y time’, but that’s it. It never gets updated past that to show where it is or if it’s been delivered.
With usable tracking, you’re looking at about $40 for EMS shipping.
Ok, np. I’m waiting anxious. You declare a lower value like I asked you?
Hi Toodles.
Are you still taking orders through LL? I ordered a VLX Kitty from them a couple weeks ago, and since then, they seem to have changed their status from “preorder” to “out-of-stock.” I’m anxious about their restocking status, because if I can’t get ahold of a Kitty, I have to hurry up and purchase a PS3 VLX to replace my 360 one while I can still find them at a (relatively) reasonable price. I’m prepared to cancel my order with them and go directly through you to keep from falling through the cracks. I’ve ordered a LS-40-01 from them last week, so they’re still getting business from me.
LizardLick will restock whenever LizardLick decides to restock. I have no other information other than that.
That’s all I needed to read. I’ll cancel and order from you.
Crap, I forgot to check here yesterday. Just ordered a couple TE Kitty boards and a TE-S harness now. Definitely looking forward to being able to use my main stick on PS3 soon.
Just because you posted this, I ordered three. Honestly, I haven’t had any issues yet despite having cut the glue in the past, but you know, “never” sounds a lot better than “not yet” in this situation…
wish you had told me about the jlf-te cable before ordering the kit 
does it happen to everyone? what about te-s sticks?
None of the MadCatz sticks to my knowledge use the proper connector. TE, TE-S, SFxT, SE, TvC, Brawl stick, all of them use the incorrect connector for the stick, and use glue to hold it in place (well, the SE/TvC/Brawl sticks, the ones that use MadCatz joysticks instead of Sanwa use a different connector on the microswitch board, and it may be the proper connector for that, but its NOT the proper connector for the five pin header on the JLF or Seimitsu sticks)
Now, some people use hot glue when they reattach the connector. You could use this brilliant idea so you dont tear the glue in the first place:
For some people, the metal crimp pins inside the MadCatz connector squeezes down enough so that it holds on well enough. Any of these are perfectly usable work arounds.
It just rubs me the wrong way though, because its hackish. It’s the wrong connector. If you can get around it and any of those work arounds work for you, cool, go for it. But I believe in maintainable joysticks and using the right part for the job. Maybe it’s an uptight purist thing, Im not sure.
Skimmed through the thread but couldn’t seem to find the answer to what i was going to ask, im just wondering if people have found out the answer yet.
- Does the TEKitty fit in an SE? As far as i know the boards are identical, so I would assume the only possible hurdle would be the physical mounting of the PCB. (Well, a Brawlstick to be precise, im not sure if the stick being a brawlstick rather than a regular SE changes anything, not sure if there is a different rev. of the board in the Brawlstick.)
Hope I’m not asking something people have already answered! I’m just curious.
Thanks for the quick reply! Its good to know that it only takes a little modding to get it to fit.
BrawlStick has different PCB from the FightStick.
So it wouldn’t be compatible? :eek:
It’s somewhere between No and Unknown at this point. I have a brawlstick in the garage to check out. Best case scenario, it’d require a new wiring harness like the TE-S does, so an addition $5 and a month or so while I wait for it to come in. Worst case scenario, no workie at all. I dont have any idea at this point; please do not purchase a Kitty intending to put it into a Brawl stick unless you’re an electronics wiz or some other instructions have popped up to help with it.
SE’s are a different story. Electrically they’re identical to TEs, and the Kitty works fine as long as you hack a way to physically mount it.