I appreciate the response, Toodles! I thought it would be best to ask, good job I did! Im by no means an electronics wiz so ill just have to bide my time, thanks for the quick reply.
What are the chances you sell out by Mid/Late November, Toodles? I’m kind of broke atm, but if you think you’ll sell out by then, I’ll jump on it now and deal with the consequences later. 
Take your time, I’ll have plenty.
Hi Toodles,
Here’s a suggestion for the Kitty: make the panel LEDs light up like with the FGWidget LED controller (splash, “chaser”, etc…). I’m sure it would look awesome
I would have liked to, but I cant. I dont have any I/O pins to spare on the board to control them, I dont have much free space on the chip to put the LED controlling code, and it would have interfered with 360 mode.
Okay, I documented the crap out of the Brawl stick just now. I didn’t do any snooping around the P02 and P00 lines, but I get a good handle on the rest. I could bore people with the details of why it’d be too much of a not worth it pain in the tuckus to accomplish, but the short answer is I won’t be making an answer for the Brawl stick. Your best bet would be to contact a tech about getting a ChimpSMD or MC Cthulhu+Imp combo installed in your stick for you.
I was speaking about the 2 rows of LEDs from the minipanel (holding the GUIDE and turbo buttons), sorry for being unclear. I figured it would be easy enough since you are already controlling them with the Kitty.
Got my boards in the mail today. Thanks Marcus!
Hey man few questions, i read through the first few pages as i was recomended here. I got a Xbox 360 mad catz TE round 2, and also a HRAP VX-SA for xbox 360, from what i understand these kitty boards are nice easy dual mods pretty much so i can use it on a ps3? i noticed theres a TE one so i’m intrested in one of those for my TE if thats the case just thought i’d check before i invest :). Also do you deliver to the UK and if so what kinda prices am i looking at. Thanks!
Got my Kitty PCBs already! Even USPS is godlike.
I just send you all my money Toodles damn you the order was so big the shipping had to be upgraded to the $11 shipping
I need to see what all the hype is about with this kitty even though I’m a dog person I even ordered the TE-s harness and I don’t even have a S model anymore
Another thing you know your kitty board looks more like a Cthulhu than your Cthulhu board does:wink2:
This is every order of mine sadly…
got mine in the mail yesterday, installed it today. works great, thanks for the awesome product.
I’m trying this currently but I’m having issues with the original pcb. I can’t get the old wiring out of the holes. I tried taking some desoldering braid to it, but it just absorbed the excess, I’m now stuck with holes that are filled with solder and tiny amounts of wire sticking out, but not quite enough to grab. Anyone have tips on how to clean those out?
Is the glue preventing you from pulling each wire individually? Use a helping hand or something to grab each wire 1 by 1 and pull while holding the tip of the iron to desolder it. Or, just snip the wires if the board works in its current state.
There’s no glue left on the board, it’s just that I need to solder new wires into those holes but they are currently filled with solder + tiny amounts of stray wire. Some quick googling shows that this is exactly what a solder sucker is for (I’ve never used one) so I’m off to the store to grab one.
EDIT: Got a little solder sucker bulb from radioshack but it doesn’t seem to be doing much of anything. I’m getting worried about the board itself given how much I’ve been heating it up today so I think I’m going to take a break for a bit and see if there are any other suggestions.
EDIT 2: Got it. A friend recommended I put some flux on a tiny push pin and try to push it through. Now time to finish the install.
[LEFT]I apologize for the double post but I have some actual questions now. I’m installing on a Chun TE-S and I’m at the first testing step, 12. When I plug in with guide held down, all turbo lights except the top right (LB) work. I double checked all connections to that button and relevant distribution board ribbon cable (CN1) and everything is secure. Next I plugged it in normal, and Windows 7 recognizes it as “4 axis 13 button gamepad with hat switch” so I updated the firmware, it ran for the expected amount of time and the outcome is still the same. Is this an issue? When I go into ‘Properties’ from there to check the buttons, all buttons respond correctly, including LB which leads me to believe that the first issue is moot and just a messed up light or something. Just tested the “force 360 pcb mode” by having RS set and holding down turbo and my computer says ‘USB Device Not Recognized’. Thanks for any help you can provide.[/LEFT]
Three seperate things:
1.LB LED
2. USB String
3. Xbox360 mode
- Use your meter to check the votlage on the pin on the LED board dealing with the LB (blahblahLB. You’ll see others blahblahY or blahblah RT, its easy to spot if you know you’re looking for the one ending in LB) when the stick is plugged into your PC. I need to know the voltage is when the LB button is pressed, and when its not pressed.
- Sounds like it was yanked out of the PC before it fully connected the first time. Easiest thing to do is use the Kitty front end program, open the .hex, save a new USB String, save the hex file, then flash the hex file. That’ll fix it and make it whatever USB string you set.
- It’s all up to the four USB wires between the Kitty and the TE pcb. If you have them screwed down in the wrong holes, or they’re not making contact in the screw terminal, or the trace on the Xbox360 pcb got burned, etc.etc.
Thanks for the suggestions, I’ll give them a shot tomorrow and report back. If the last issue does end up being the pcb traces, am I screwed as far as this pcb goes?
Doubt it. There are other spots on the board you could solder to, in fact, you only need the D+ and D- lines. The other two are already taken care of the ribbon cables.