ok yeah thats my address i was just wondering on the bottom of if it said confirmed address or unconfirmed address
Understood. Unfortunately, I don’t have a soldering iron. Never used one, either. Fortunately, I’m not in a huge rush right now. Heh, and yeah, I’m in the US. I’d be happy to just send this board in for a replacement/repair/whatever. Just let me know where it needs to go.
No problem, I’ll PM now.
Hey Marcus I sent you a pm describing my issue. Let me know when you can reply. Thanks
A friend of mine says that dualmodding a 360 stick causes the stick’s headset mic to buzz. I don’t know the specifics (such as whether it buzzes when one is plugged in, or isn’t plugged in) and I think he’s generalizing or is just misinformed, but anyway, I just want to be sure, does the Kitty cause the headset to buzz?
Hey Toodles, just wanted to say thanks for making an awesome product Ordered two TE-S Kittys during evo and just got them installed (Madcatz goofed the warehouse order and it took me until yesterday to receive my last stick). They work like a charm, the install was easy and the install guide was perfect. I am now thoroughly addicted to watching the turbo lights blink while I play
OK I still love mine, It’s great, I just have a silly question now. Is it at all possible for the ability to remap the controls for each console to be done by a piece of software on a windows PC? I’d be more than willing to write this software. It would just be more convenient for people like me who remapped their buttons physically so their Xbox 360 layout could be less lame for everything that isn’t Street Fighter IV.
Will there be any more TE Kittys in stock in the near future?
I was looking at Spark thread earlier so i checked youtube to see what it was like…now one video ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ONxa64Okiqo&feature=mh_lolz&list=HL1313623518 ) he explains a DC-DC step up converter is used to make the spark work on console such as the ps2… Is it possible to use the DC-DC converter to make the Turbo LED and Home LED light up more brightly on the ps2?
toodles about how long does shipping take?
was wondering if i ordered today if i would have it within a week?
I haven’t heard of that happening before, and I can’t picture why it would; the headset is completely separated from the Kitty; it plugs straight into the black box. I’ll take a look and see if I can recreate the problem on mine.
I can see no reason why it would. On both Kittys (TE and VLX), the headset jack connects to the 360 board with its own cable, and doesn’t touch the Kitty at all. It should have zero affect on how the headset operates.
<3 cheesy LED goodness.
Yes, it is possible; I got the source code for the Kitty.exe front end that GUmmo made, and the button configurations could be added to that program. If you’re serious about wanting to give it a try, it wouldn’t be hard to point out how it would need to be done.
Depends on your definition of near. I dont have an ETA, I expect it to be a number of weeks, but they’re coming.
Yes, it could be done. Put the step up converter between the outgoing RJ45 jack on the stick and the RJ-45 on the Kitty. You can access ground there (pin 1) and the power (pin 8).
But this would also make all of the comunication signals 5v, and I have NO idea how that may affect the PSX communication.
If you wanted to put one in that didn’t affect the communication, you could put it in between the Kitty and LED daughterboard. VCC and GND are on the same ‘V’ ribbon cable; cut it between the LED daughterboard and kitty and install the DC-DC there, and the communication would be the same, but the power to the LEDs would be 5v.
If you’re in the US, and it was something I had in stock, yes. Packages usually go out next business day, and take 2-3 business days to arrive in the US.
I’m 90% certain it has to be a wiring problem; if you’re able to get the 360 mode working with the RS and Turbo button, then the code on the Kitty has to be working, and even better, it has to know its connected to a USB system. Can you verify and take a picture of the wires going to the screw terminals on the Kitty? If they’re backwards, I could def see this happening.
Here’s the picture of the wiring:
SOLVED
I just noticed that the signal ground on the Madcatz board is disconnected! Would that affect it in anyway! I would hate to re-solder it onto the board.
SOLVED
The disconnected ground there is NOT a problem; there are other connections for GND between the Kitty and TE pcb through the ribbon cables. Even so, that thicker ‘wire’ is the shielding ground, the exposed copper around the four insulated wires; it isn’t connected on the other end anyways, and it looks like the thin black wire is still connected, so either way, dont sweat it.
But wrapping the exposed copper where you removed the outer insulation near the screw terminals is always recommended.
The wiring looks good, the cables are going to the screw terminals they should be.
I was afraid the outgoing cable was in the Xbox spot and visa versa, but that doesn’t appear to be the case.
When you plug it into a PC with the guide button held down and lock switch set to ‘unlock’, does the bootloader come up properly? Are you able to do a full firmware flash?
I figured that the signal ground wouldn’t affect it but just felt the need to ask. When I plug it in to the PC with the guide button held down I get the “USB error message” and nothing shows up in my control panel. So when I try to reflash it nothing happens.
Ohh i see well i guess once i get the money for the Spark and the DC-DC ill probably try the Kitty to LED daughterboard. Thanks for the info :tup:
Pull out the wires from the screw terminals that go to the main TE board, so only the outgoing USB cable is connected. If there’s anything plugged into the RJ45 jack on the Kitty, unplug it as well. You can leave the neutrik jack on the case, just unplug the cable from the RJ45 on the Kitty. Try it again on the PC, both normal mode, and with guide held down for the bootloader mode. When checking the bootloader mode, you cant look in the game controllers applet, you’d have to look in the device manager, or if you’re on windows 7, just Start -> Devices and Printers (It should show up as just the letter ‘G’)
Let me know how it goes and we’ll go from there.
Yep. I’m willing to give it a shot. Let me know.
hey toodles i got the usb adapter today and it works perfect, any reason this works and the rj45 jack doesn’t ? i was thinking that for some reason on xbox it’s in 360 mode since the only light thats lit is top left and when i force xbox mode the top left is lit and the turbo light is lit. you have any more of these for sale that you tested and works? if so ill buy 1 more off you. i am asking cause i may need 1 if it happens again with a mc board rather have another 1 handy. also ur mc boards and ps3 boards work with this usb adapter? i tried a wired 360 controller on it but it didn’t work, i just tried a duel modded namco has a 360 board and ur ps3 board and it disn’t work maybe it will work with your mc board only?
Glad to hear its working. It proves the Kitty is cool with Xbox1, and your console works fine. The problem has to lie between the RJ-45 jack on the Kitty and the Xbox1 end of your RJ45->Xbox1 cable. Maybe the cable from Kitty to jack, maybe the jack, maybe the RJ-45 to Xbox1 cable.
I do have another one, but I’d rather not sell it. You can easily find others to buy though, especially on ebay:
Those adapters will work fine on MC Cthulhu’s as well; I actually recommend them in the Instructable for connecting an Xbox1 cable. They won’t work on PC/PS3 Cthulhu’s though.