I’m going to put in an order for a VLX Kitty soon I think. You have plenty of those in stock, Marcus?
Tony
+1 on this, I might need 2 or 3 of these.
I need more KittyTE’s! I’ve already used all 6 and I’ve got 2 more people to mod so these need to come ASAP! Good stuff on this great board!
Much better, thank you. The installation looks good, and I do agree that the wires are in the correct spot on the screw terminals.
The description of the problem leads me to believe that either there’s a problem with the TE board itself, or the connections from the TE board’s USB wires to the outgoing USB cable. I do agree that reconnecting the cable as you described should show the main TE board is working.
Undo the screw terminals for the four outgoing USB wires, and put them in with the matching USB wires from the TE board in the XBOX section. So the V-Red terminal in the Xbox section should hold the red wire for the main TE board and the red USB wire for the outgoing cable. Ditto for the green, white, and black cables. Plug it into a PC and force the Xbox360 mode the same way you’ve been doing. Because that should electrically connect the four USB wires from the main TE board to the outgoing USB cable, this should behave the exact same way as when you direct connected the wires earlier, and show up as the Madcatz board on the PC in the game controller’s applet. (Turbo LEDs will over course light as normal. Guide LEDs may or may not behave correctly, ignore them for now. Just focus on whether it shows up in the game controller’s applet. Also try without forcing the xbox360 mode, just to know.
If it doesn’t show up in either mode, take the wires out of the screw terminals, and reconnect them as you dig before with the twist ‘n’ tape. Check again; I just want to make sure that it does work connected outside of the screw terminals, and doesn’t work in the screw terminals.
Let me know what you find, and please also take a picture of the small 4066 chip on the board; its the fourteen legged small beasty closest to the screw terminals. Please, don’t swap out the main TE board again until we’re sure what the cause of the problem is. We could easily miss the problem if we swap them around willy-nilly.
Well, one last possibility before we have to. Give me a moment and I’ll make a VLX firmware that we can force into Xbox1 mode; I’m hoping you have XBCD or similar installed so you can test on the PC, but this would help because you can force the Xbox1 mode to see for yourself it working on the PC, and see if that’ll work on the Xbox1; if it doesn’t work on the Xbox1, then we know we’re at either the controller or the system/testing method.
I think I’ve got about 40 left. Order away.
Trust me, I’m working on getting them in as fast as I can; I dont like not having them for sale any more than you do 
Thanks. Just put in an order.
http://www.godlikecontrols.com/download/kitty/VLXKitty_Variations.zip
You can test it on your PC (using the original USB cable or some sort of xbox1->USB adapter). If you have XBCD installed, you should see an entry in the game controller’s applet pop up. If not, chances are it’ll install as an unknown device. You can verify it’s correct by looking in the device manager entry for the item and checking the PID/VID pair; it’ll match this:
http://img806.imageshack.us/img806/2766/xbox1f.png
If plugging in while holding turbo down shows that in the device manager, but doesn’t work on the Xbox1, then it’s something with the connection to the Xbox1, or the Xbox1 itself. Holding turbo bypasses all autodetection, and forces it into Xbox1 mode as if it were a dedicated controller.
Toodles I have a question. I plug the TE Kitty board into my PC and I get the “Usb error” message and the 1 and 4 guide LED’s are lit. I force it into 360 mode and it works just fine. I plug in the RJ-45 -> PS2 cables I made into my PS2 and it works fine. When I plug the Usb cable into my ps3 the leds will flash and then it will stop after about a minute and I will get a message on my ps3 saying “unkown device connected”. Nothing lights up and nothing happens when I press buttons or move the stick.
I am pretty sure something is wrong with the TE side of the board. I have done the basic trouble shooting. Making sure the wires are connected properly and isloating the problem buy moving the 4 outgoing usb wires into the xbox section of the TE Kitty. The 4066 chip looks good.
The way I am using it now is using my RJ 45 to ps2 and then plugging the ps2 end into my usb adapter to plug into my ps3 and it works. Then when I plug a RJ 45 to USB and plug it into my PC/PS3 I get the same USB error message.
In summary I am confused to why only the ps3 functionality isn’t working. Any response is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
yep it says the same numbers only difference it says usb/vid instead of the way your picture had it everything else was the same so that means something is wrong with the xbox ? i tried it on the dashboard and on evolution x any ideas ? the regular s controllers work u think i will have the same problems with the mc boards? or do you have a working cord that works on the vlx i can buy from you to test if its the 2 cables i brought?
With both sets of wires in the XBOX terminals, the stick shows up as “Arcade Stick (Street Fighter IV FightStick)” in Game Controllers. This happens regardless of whether or not I force Xbox360 mode. (Turbo LEDs did indeed light up on button press, Guide LEDs did indeed act a little funky.)
Stick showed up, so I didn’t do this. (Probably seems obvious, but just FYI.)
- I cont jump to that conclusion yet, but what it does mean is that it is properly forcing Xbox1 mode.
- That should be fine, I tested it myself on EvoX and it worked.
- Depends on where the problem is. The autodetect code is slightly different, but the Xbox1 code is the same. Set that question aside for a big.
- That may be the easiest step to take. I have a couple of USB -> Xbox1 adapters that I know work. How about this: Paypal over $10, and I’ll mail out one of those adapters, the one I’ve tested personally. You can use it for testing; if it works, awesome, if it doesn’t, I’ll ask that you test on another Xbox1 console or work out sending the VLX Kitty for me to test on an Xbox1 console. Either way, you’d be free to keep the adapter, or send it back and I’ll refund all but the $2 it cost to ship it to you. Thoughts?
Well, I dislike that answer, but am happy you checked. The 4066 chip looks good, no obvious points of mis-soldering or bridging. So, the symptoms lead me to believe there’s a problem with the connection between the outgoing USB and the TE USB wires.
What I’d really like to do may sound a little weird, but it would help rule a few things out.
- Remove the TE USB wires from the Xbox section of screw terminals. It’d be a good idea for you to wrap the exposed ends in electrical tape just to make sure they dont touch anything while they’re free.
- Move the four outgoing USB wires back to the top half of screw terminals. Plug it into a PC to verify it shows up as the Kitty properly.
- Unplug the stick, move the slider to Unlocked, top slider to RS, and plug in with Turbo held down to force Xbox360 mode. Since the Xbox wires were removed from the screw terminals, you wont see the xbox360 show up in the game controller’s applet, and may see a USB error message on the PC; that’s fine. Just make sure it does not show up as a Kitty in the game controllers applet.
- Once that’s done, remove the white and green wires of the outgoign USB cable from the screw terminals. Leave the red and black wires in, we need them for power.
- Use a multimeter to test resistance from the D+ Green screw terminal on the top half of the screw terminals with the D+ Green screw terminal on the bottom half of the screw terminals. Use the 2K Ohm setting on your meter for this; if the reading is less than 100 ohms (which would be 0.10 on my meter when set for 2k Ohms), go ahead and change to the 200 Ohm setting for a more accurate reading. Then repeat for the two D- White screw terminals. Make sure you’re familiar enough with your meter to know what infinite resistance looks like, and move the setting to a high ohm setting if you see that.
Im looking to see the resistances between the Xbox USB wires and the outgoing USB wires; one possible problem is a faulty 4066 chip that has a too high a resistance, or a broken trace on the board that prevents any connection at all (that would show as infinite resistance).
Let me know what you find please.
I am having issues with some of my PC-Engine games. First the layout is strange, but I don’t know if it’s supposed to be that way. The layout for the first four buttons is:
I Run
II Select
and Turbo is Run and Start on the back is Select.
I am also having issues with two of my games. In Galaga 88, the II button makes the ship fire as normal, but it also makes the ship move right when pressed. Both of the Run buttons also make the ship move left in addition to pausing the game.
The second game to give me issues is Victory Run, which just rapidly presses Run by itself.
The other games I tried were Mr. Heli, Super Star Soldier, and Psychic Storm, which all work flawlessly. The system is a PC-Engine Duo R, if that matters. I thought I may have messed up the cable the first time I made it, so I made it again and I am still having these issues.
Finally, how can I remap the buttons?
Plug it into the console with the power on. Hold down guide, turbo, and hold the stick in a direction so you can see the guide LEDs for that direction. Hold them until the Guide LEDs turn off, then release them all. Press the button you want for ‘I’ and release. Press the button you want for ‘II’ and release. Press the button you want for Run and release (or press and release Select if you dont want any of the play buttons to be Run.). Press the button you want for Select and release (or press and release Select if you dont want any of the play buttons to be Select.) Press and release Select repeatedly (at least 4 more times). Then your remapping is done.
Whether you map Run and Select or not, Start and Select buttons will still be Run and Select, respectively.
I will see if I can get a copy of those games to try out.
ok ill buy one off you so i would just plug the usb side into the adapter then to xbox and it should work fine ? hopefully this works
Yep, that’s all.
alright imma send the payment now
payment sent hey can you tell me if my address is confirmed ? i moved like 2 months ago and just wanted to see if it was or if i had to add a credit card to do so thanks
What I got was:
25 ashford street
Before I get too far into this post, I want to mention that I haven’t used a multimeter before. The one I have access to is this puppy. I’m pretty sure I was using this thing correctly, of course, but full disclosure and all. With that said…
I did, and it does.
As expected, nothing shows up in Game Controllers. (No error message either.) Stick gets power just fine.
On the D+ (green) terminals, I’m getting a resistance of around 6 ohms. (It fluctuates a bit between 6 and 6.5) On the D- (white) terminals, it reads 0 ohms.
With the meter set to ohms, you should see one thing on the screen when the probes are touching each other, and another when the probes are held apart. Im curious if that 0 you got on the D- check is the same thing as when you touch the probes together, or if its like when the probes where held apart.
Arrrrgh, looks like I’m a dumbass. I’m sorry, it didn’t read 0, it read “0L.” Or, more correctly, “OL.” Which is how it indicates infinite resistance.
To answer your new question: When the probes aren’t touching, OL is what the display reads. And that’s also what I get when I check D-. Touching the probes together gets me 0.0 ohms.
To reanswer your last question, I’m getting about 6 - 6.5 ohms on D+. I’m getting “OL” on D-.
Okay, that cinches it. The D- line is broken somewhere between the 4066 chip and the D- screw terminal in the Xbox section. Unless you mauled it with a pocket knife, that’s entirely on me. So, two options for you:
- I can walk you through trying to repair the broken trace. It would require a little soldering, but not anything I’d call difficult. (in fact, it’d be a taking a short piece of wire, sticking it through one of those through holes next to the XBOX|OUT label, and soldering the top and bottom; I’d bet that’s where the break is.)
- You can send it to me to be repaired/swapped out.
The upside of 1 is that the fix would be quick and you could be fully running tonight, but youd have to use a soldering iron for a minute. The upside of 2 is that you wouldn’t have to solder, but it’d be a few days while it goes through the mail. Since this is almost certainly a problem with the board itself before you got it, I’ll definitely be covering the postage if you decide to swap out (please be in the US, please be in the US), and I’ll still get you swapped out even if you destroy the board trying to fix it yourself.
Let me know how you’d like to proceed.