As long as the update with the DOS box was up on the screen for like a full 45 seconds, and you had to remap buttons, that works for me.
Do you have a RJ45 -> USB cable you can use?
Do you have an USB to Xbox adapter like this one: http://www.knightdiscounts.com/xboxusbcable.jpg ?
Do you have another Xbox1 console you can test on?
Do you have regular Xbox1 controllers you can test on that Xbox?
it wasnt up for 45 sec maybe like 20 or 30 for it to go through and go to a 100 percent and then when i went on ps3 i had to remap the buttons again
no i only have ps2 , dreamcast, and the 2 xbox cables that dont work i use the vlx original usb cord i don’t have a rj45 jacked usb cord
no i dont have one of those usb to xbox adapters
no i only have this 1 modded xbox
yes i have a s controller and it works fine
should i try something similar? i will peek around in mine aswell.
EDIT: Also uploaded a overview video of the te kitty. install tutorial video coming soon. ENJOY…i sound lame but owell lol
[media=youtube]YKl7B4G3yfw[/media]
That must have been mine. It just found its home into a new black TE-S today. Now I just need the Astro steel panel from blklightning, and its journey towards the dark side will be complete. 
So I’ve made it to the testing step of the installation, and finally hit a snag. It comes up fine in both modes, but the 3rd kick LED is always lit. In 360 mode, the button works fine in the control panel. In Kitty mode, it registers as always being held down. All other buttons work correctly in both modes.
Might this have something to do with it?
Not the way it’s a little chewed up, that happened pulling it out after the problem. In the instructions this connector is the other way around; 2 wires, empty pin, 3 wires. Both my TE-S kits are like this.
That connecter looks correct. Does anything change when you move the slide switch to ‘locked’?
3rd kick LED won’t turn on, button doesn’t work in kitty mode. Still works in 360 mode, but the LED of course stays unlit.
Does the lock switch still properly enable/disable the start and select in 360 mode?
I think I’m going to need to see a the middle connector of that ribbon; both sides, preferably, so I can see how it was wired.
Yeah, lock still works as intended.
Pics:
Also I swapped the board for my other one just to make sure, unless both are bad in exactly the same way it’s definitely a wiring issue and not the kitty itself.
Oh I definitely agree that its a wiring issue, and the image above shows the problem. That cord was miswired at the middle section. The pin that has one wire to it? You can see the label on the board for it is ‘RT’, while the one labelled ‘KGND’ next to it has two wires; I’m sure you can guess, that extra wire in the KGND is the one that should go to the ‘RT’ pin. When the switch is set to ‘unlock’, KGND == GND. So on the Kitty, RT was connected direct to ground, so the Kitty thinks its pressed.
If you ordered the kit from me directly, send me a PM with your zip code and paypal email so I can find the order and mail you a replacement. If you ordered it elsewhere, I’ll need your full address. If you’d like to try hacking it and move that wire over to the RT pin, feel free; it’ll be thrown away anyways. . Please also check the ribbon in the other TE-S harness kit to see if it has the same flaw; if it does, I’ll want to know so I can replace it as well, and if it doesn’t, you can swap them out and have one fully working stick while waiting for the replacement to arrive.
Yeah, I was about to post that I figured it out. The harness from the other kit works, I’ll send you a PM in just a second.
So I got my hands on an old SE, pried the PCB out of it, wired it up and… I still can’t get this thing into Xbox 360 mode. The problem definitely is not the MadCatz PCB. It was working before I took it out of the SE, and I just spliced it back together with the SE and got it working again.
As best I can tell, there’s gotta be something wrong with the Kitty board itself. Unless I’ve screwed up the wiring somewhere, of course, but I’ve checked this thing again and again against the instructions and everything looks right. (And the Kitty board works fine as long as I don’t plug it into a 360 or try to force it into 360 mode.)
Is there anything else I can do or check at this point? I’m kinda at my wits end here.
Edit: On a whim, I took my old TE PCB that I thought was bad and wired it up to the SE housing. It took a several tries to get everything connecting correctly but, low and behold, Windows recognized it. It looks like that board actually does work. So that wasn’t the problem like I originally thought. I must have just screwed up when I spliced it back in to test it way back when.
So yeah. Whatever the cause, something’s gotta be up with the Kitty, not the MadCatz board.
I’m very confused. What would you like for me to do?
Honestly, I’m not sure. My situation is thus: I don’t know why I can’t get this thing into 360 mode, the problem I thought it was way back in my earlier posts (a bad MadCatz PCB) turned out not to be the case, and I don’t know what else to try to get it working properly. I would ask if I could send this TE Kitty in for a replacement, but since you’re out of stock that’s obviously out of the question. So, basically, I’m trying to figure out if I have any other options open at this point.
Troubleshooting. I have no information about what’s wrong with you’re setup, what it is doing, what it isn’t doing, nada. If there’s a problem with parts you got from me, no problem, I’ll get it replaced or repaired or whatever is needed. I just need to know exactly what the problem is, so I can know that its my stuff at fault and what needs to be done to fix it.
But there is great news in all of this. At worst, maybe 1 in 20 problems that come to me are because of a flaw that needs fixed. So I’d say there is a 95% chance that your problem could be fixed by you, and I’m happy to help point the way. But to do that, I need your help, and all of the information you could possibly give me. Pictures, descriptions of how its behaving, tests you’ve done, etc.
was the video i made helpful at all toodles?
‘compared to a chillto board’ XD
The review is nice, thanks man. Two technical points to throw out there:
The Turbo button will function is all modes, not just in Xbox360 mode.
The LS/DP/RS slider will work as expected in PS3. Xbox1, and Gamecube modes.
Other than that, please stress that there is a long, detailed, step by step set of instructions already available for anyone to read, maybe even link to it in the notes.
I love that I’m not the only one who loves stickers.
Now, about your stick. I havent forgotten about it, I’ve been chewing it over in my head. The problem as Im picturing it is that the stick will detect a 360 console, and hand over control to the 360 board, but the 360 board doesn’t talk back. If its forced to 360 mode, then it talks back just fine.
Similar descriptions have popped up on a few occasions with the ChimpSMD, and I ended up making a custom firmware for them to try out that used a different amount of time for the 360 detection, and it fixed their problem just fine. What I dont recall was if it was less time or more.
What I’d like to do is build a few revisions with different timings for the autodetection, and have you try them out. I’m confident at least one would work in a way that makes your problems go away, I just cant be sure which of the four
Would you be down for trying them out and seeing if it fixes your problems on 360 consoles?
Okie dokie. Sorry for the confusion; I foolish built off information from earlier posts. I’ll start over from the beginning and try to get everything into this one post.
I have one of your TE Kitty boards. I currently have it installed in a round 1 TE. With everything all hooked up, it looks something like this: Picture 1, Picture 2, Picture 3, Picture 4
When I plug the stick into my PC, it pops up in Game Controllers as “Kitty TE Edition.” All of the buttons and the lever work properly if I test it in the Properties window. (Works fine if I load up a game or something, too.) Also, all of the turbo and Guide LEDs light up correctly on the front panel when I press a button or move the lever.
If I plug the stick in while trying to force Xbox 360 mode (which I’m doing by setting the sliders to RS and unlocked, and holding down either the Back or Turbo button), I get a “USB Device Not Recognized” error in Windows. (Specifically, the error looks like this.) On the stick itself, for a split second quadrants 2 and 3 will light up on the Guide LEDs, followed quickly by all four LEDs lighting up. This will last for about 3 seconds before the Guide LEDs go dark. If I press any of the face buttons, their corresponding turbo LED will light up. Moving the joystick, however, will not light up the Guide LEDs.
I have also spliced the MadCatz TE PCB back into the USB cable just to make sure that it’s still working, and it shows up properly in Game Controllers as “Arcade Stick (Street Fighter IV FightStick TE).” (After this I wired it back into the Kitty, and the behaviors outlined above remained unchanged.)
All the connectors are in firmly, and all the screw terminals are screwed down snugly. The USB and MadCatz PCB wires are in the correct order (red, white, green, black, empty) and pushed deep into the terminals.
I have not tried messing with the firmware at all.
And I believe that about covers everything I’ve seen and/or done so far.
whoops. Stuttered a bit i now…i got the sparky board wrong too at times. Just trying to spread the word of these boards to help inform ppl and get them started to doing their research. Because I know it can be frustrating at times. Thanks for the feedback. I will try not to mess up in the future videos. yeah, no big rush on the board issue. i have been digging and pondering too. but it still works just fine so its no biggie. whenever you roll out a new firmware update just lmk and i will give it a go
toodles do i have to get any of those items?