I just told you where the problem was. The big nasty ribbon cable with the four connectors. I suggest you look at it, maybe compare how it’s plugged in to how the instructions say to plug it in.
ok Thanks, going to play with that one.
For some reason I’m plugging it in exactly how it describes in both Tutorials but my turbo/start/select/ and guide are still not working.
I put the 7 pin short end directly on the main TE PCB
Then the other end of that short end goes on the inside of the TE kitty board between R and V
and the long ends Have the one with the single cable coming from it into the Daughter Board and the other on the OUTside rim between the R and V.
Not sure why it’s not working at all for me.
checked all three switches on my turbo panel and LS/DP/RS all work respectively. It’s nothing more than Guide/turbo/start/select now.-
Does the lock switch disable/enable the start button?
Well, before i started the mod it was. I have the TE-S. And for some reason it’s on the unlocked side and it still will not work.
You have to buy TE Kitty with the specific TE S harness.
Regular TE Kitty kit will not work on TE S.
He has.
The single wire part of that harness goes to both of the 7 pin connectors on that main harness. On the 7 pin connector that plugs into the LED daughterboard, the single wire should be going to the pin on the inside of the board, not the outside edge. The single wire going to the 7 pin connector on the main TE board should go to the outermost pin, closest to the screw in the corner; not to the inside next to CN5.
If that all is the case, then remove that main piece, and take some good photos of it to post up.
So I followed exactly what you said. One of the 7pin cables witht he single wire in the Daughterboard and the short one in the Main TE pcb
The One coming from the MAIN TE PCB is going on the OUTSIDE between R and V closest to the edge.
and the one coming from the Daughterboard is in the INSIDE between R and V
SOrry if the pics aren’t too descriptive, wasn’t really sure what would help.
also there are a few left over ribbons, not sure if there should be. there a couple that came in the plastic bag that weren’t used.
There supposed to be two wire harness from the distribution block to the TE Kitty also.
Yeah I have those as well. It seems like if those weren’t connected correctly my buttons wouldn’t be working. So I don’t think that’s the issue.
That does the trick. Good news is I know the problem, better news is that there is a fairly easy workaround. Bad news is that it looks like all of the main cables in this batch have the same problem, so I have to add the workaround to the instructions, and can’t send the TE-S kits to LL until proper ones are made. 
First off, verify if the cable you have has this problem. You want to take a close look at the 7 pin connector on the LONG ribbon cable of the main piece. Here is that connector circled in red:
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/8397/img0046pe.jpg
Zooming in on that connector:
http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/9597/img0047rg.jpg
Orient your connector so the wires come out the bottom, and the seven small ‘notches’ and visible metal is face down, just like this picture. You’ll notice the 6 wire ribbon is on the right, while that single wire is on the left. If your connector matches this image perfectly, then you have one of the error cables, and need to do the following workaround. If your connector in the same place has the 6 wire ribbon on the left, and the single cable on the right, you do NOT need to do this workaround. Doing the workaround when you dont need to, or not doing the work around if you do, will result in the same symptoms described by iNerd18 above, such as non-working Guide or Turbo buttons, and non-working Start button.
The main cable was made wrong; the 7 pin connector that goes to the LED daughterboard is wired on the ribbon backwards. The easiest way to make everything work proper is just flip the header on the LED daughterboard backwards.
Here’s pictures of the LED daughterboard has it normally is.
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/268/img0038jpgsmall.jpg
http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/6541/img0039jpgsmall.th.jpg
Use a knife or thin flat blade screw driver on both sides, using a twisting motion to gently separate the plastic housing of the connector away from the board. Don’t go too hard on it; nudge one end up, then the other end, back and forth slowly lifting it up.
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/7162/img0040jpgsmall.th.jpg
http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/4021/img0041jpgsmall.th.jpg
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/2605/img0042jpgsmall.th.jpg
Here’s a picture of it with the housing removed.
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/3756/img0043jpgsmall.th.jpg
Now the hard part; put it back on. Flip it around, line up the pins with the holes on the bottom of the board, and get it on. Needle nose pliers, opened slightly, can put pressure on both sides of the pins to push it straight down. Personally, I used the ‘file’ blade of my leatherman to push down slightly on the plastic from the inside, going back and forth pushing down on both sides of the pins.
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/626/img0045jpgsmall.th.jpg
Once the plastic is back on all of the way, plug in the TE-S ribbon, and test.
You are the fucking man Toodles. Thank you so much for working with me to get this issues solved. Taking it off and flipping it over was a breeze. Just tested and everything is working 100%. Again, Thank you.
Somewhat off topic; Does anyone know of a board which DOES NOT force neutral?
Also Amp, I’m assuming you’re making a hitbox with this. What the frak do you want it to force neutral?
Question, I am planning on buying a kitty for my new xbox360 te(my first one has a McCthulhu in it, works great!!) and was wondering what would I need to solder between kittty and sparkyPWN to make arc-eye2 led’s work???
Go read up in the SOCD thread and ask any questions there.
I have no idea.
Just a quick question, The only difference between a TE-S Kitty and TE Kitty is the special harness cable correct? The PCB is identical?
Correct. Installing a Kitty in a TE-S stick requires the TE Kitty kit (which has the board and 6 ribbon cables) and the TE-S kit (which is three special ribbon cables needed for the changed pins on the TE-S).
…if you are not highly determined. Mwu Ha Ha Ha! =D
Have fun in Europe.
First i Wanted to Say Thank You Toodles For Make a Solderless Board and then another Thank You for the Straight Forward and Helpful Instructions the First and last time i will ever have to open this up
ok maybe not the last have only started the adventure of modding my TE Stick after i claimed finish with my HRAP 3 & EX
Thanks Again From a Happy Modder
just ordered mines! cant wait to get it!