i have an extra optical im considering installing. if i do install it, will i have problems with any of the other consoles not being able to power the joystick?
I just installed a Kitty in my VLX, and I love it!
Toodles- Have you considered making a stand-alone/Universal type Kitty board? I would love to have these features in a MC-Cthulhu/Chimp form factor. The auto-detect, and button mapping are awesome!
All of the systems except PSX run at 5v, so those shouldnt be a problem. PSX runs at 3.3ish volts and could have problems. You’ll want to get a DC-DC converter if you want it to always be powered by a flat 5v.
This one should do the trick, but I haven’t heard of it being successfully tested yet.
5V DC to DC Step Up - VPack PCB - SparkFun Electronics
The one I do know works isn’t currently in stock unless you want to buy the board and pieces and put it together yourself.
Power Supplies « Circuits@Home
All of the features except for button remapping (coming eventually) are already present in MC+Imp v2, including the RJ-45 jack. Since the 360 board it’s joined with will differ, there’s not any advantage to putting them together.
i know this was directed at tooodles but I chose to run the usb into the te kitty but not out. I ran the cat5 cable from the te-kitty, through the EXISTING HOLE and put another rj-45 male end on it. I’m using a simple extension “feedthrough” (the simple unmountable type you’ll see at home depot) as my connector for individual controllers. a feedthrough keystone jack or wiring to a keystone rj45 and a little surface mount housing would also work. that’s what i’m going with when my monoprice stuff gets here.
I too had an issue with removing a button/ drilling a hole.
TOodles! Great product, super simple installation, and quick shipping! I just wish I had another TE to mod 
And if there are any plans for a ps3 te/se replacement/ piggyback board of some sort (which would enable full ls/dp/rs, home, turbo functionallity for dual mod purposes) I would be interested in a few. An all in one MadCatz replacement board(fits in the turbo/home sub-housing)?
So this is working for you (no dropped inputs, the cable’s staying connected to the passthrough, etc)?
I was considering this… But I’ve already purchased my Neutrik >___>
Yeah so far, only tested with ps3 and ps2 … The dropped inputs, would that be as a result of the extra cat5 length? or the existing issue with the 360 pcb? I wasn’t aware of any issue like that resulting from the rj45/cat5 vs. usb cable out.
Also, I’m not using much cat5 cable. 12-18", Its plugged into the rj45, run around the perimeter on the joystick side, looped through the existing stress relief/ferrite ring, and through the hole into the cord storage box. I’m gonna ds-tape mount a compact surface-mount rj45 keystone jack housing (from Monoprice) inside the cord storage box. system cables from there through the other lil hole. The usb’s I have wired up have ferrite things on them and that’s acting as a stress relief there (since right now, its just the free hanging pass through connecter). I plan on also getting some snap on ferrite things from monoprice to add to all my other (3do, snes, etc) cables. whenever I did have problems with rj45’s coming out(when I first made up my cables), it’s usually due to the tab being crushed when crimping. can be fixed by gently readjusting/ heating the tabs.
The link to the TE Kitty firmware update in the installation guide is broken? Is there an alternate link? I couldn’t find one in the thread.
I wouldn’t worry about; there’s only the one version that is already on the board when its shipped.
Cool, thanks.
One weird thing I ran into while installing the 2nd board that I got. I connected everything and while testing, the RT button was stuck on(displayed in the LED as well). I unplugged the cable from the buttons pcb and it was still on. Seemed like a short somewhere. Mind you this was through the original TE mode.
I went through and double checked all the ribbon cable connects and punch down terminals and they all seemed good.
I eventually just swapped where the ribbon cables went. Ribbon cable from the buttons going on the inside and the cable to the TE pcb on the outside. It just worked afterwards.
Doesn’t seem like it effects anything. What do you think?
I basically just swapped the two below
Each pin of those connectors is directly connected to the matching pin in the other connector. Should swapping the cables between the two affect anything? Nope. It doesn’t matter which in that pair goes to the button daughterboard or the main TE board. (This is NOT true of the H, R, and V ribbons though.)
Best guess? A small burr of wire either underneath the Kitty or in somewhere else was shorting it to ground. The RT pin and the pin for ground are both right next to each other on those connectors.
Just waiting on TE-S kitty (and some FA money) then I’ll be ordering a couple.
I will assume these work perfectly fine in an SE.
The electronics will definitely work. The question is fitting it in the SE case. Whether or not it will fit or how to securely mount it, I don’t have an answer for; I’ve never tried.
do you mind if i do a video overview of a te kitty install toodles and post it here?
Not at all, I’d happily link it up in the first post. Hell, I’d put the URL in the sheet that comes with the TE kitty.
Well, I’m looking inside my SE right now. Judging off the images in the .pdf, the TE pcb is oriented in the opposite direction (3 harness part facing up on TE, facing down on SE) so it looks like the overhanging part of the Kitty (where the harnesses sit) will be facing the inside of the case (not the edge).
Now, I will say that this will prevent you from un-mounting the stick, unless it is mounted horizontally, and could possibly interfere with the A button’s quick disconnects, which may also be solved by merely bending the tabs. Not too sure, just kind of eyeballing it.
The SE will be going to someone who would just like a stick, and would not mod it or so much as open it.
cool. this weekend i plan to mod a mvc3 stick so i will include a overview or install video. depends on if i can mount the cam and work comfortably. lol
I picked up a new MacBook Pro recently, and threw my Cthulhu’d CPS stick at it and it worked beautifully.
(So beautifully I wasted half an hour playing UMK3.)
Err, I remember there being some hubbub about certain chipsets having problems with some USB controllers. Just confirming there’s no problems with the Cthulhu on the new sandy bridge platform.
Just dropped the Kitty I ordered into a TE today. Yeah, that was pretty damn easy. Initially I screwed up on getting the outgoing USB cable into the right terminals (like Demiipoet’s post upthread), so I guess that’s the only part that’ll trip you up if you’re not careful. Haven’t messed with the RJ-45 jack, but the rest of the instructions were clear enough to follow without issue.
Pretty happy with how it works, too. The blinky LEDs aren’t as distracting as I feared they might be (and my girlfriend thought they were pretty cool, so hey, bonus there). I’d still like the option to turn 'em off, but… man, it is so totally worth it to have this easy of a dual mod.
I just can’t get over how easy that was. Awesome work, Toodles. Tellin’ all my friends. Even the ones that don’t give a crap.
Appreciated. The LEDs are hard wired, so there’s no way to turn them off via firmware. But if it becomes a problem, its easy to yank a few specific parts off the board to disable the lighting.