That answered my question. What I meant in my original statement is that the PS3TE couldn’t be used to play PS2 games through the PS3, so I wanted to know if the 360TE with a Kitty could be used to play backward compatible games or would have to have a PS2 to USB adapter plugged into the PS3 to play the stick with PS2 games on the PS3.
Got my TE Kitty today. Installation took quite a while (mainly when it came to the wiring, since I didn’t have a small enough gauge on my wire cutters and it was my first time doing anything wire-related ^^;;). Still, followed your lovely directions and everything seem to be in order, though I did trip up when I screwed the outgoing USB cable to the board; I didn’t read the instructions carefully and ended up screwing them in the wrong terminals (X But all is now well.
I rather like the turbo lights lighting to my button presses and the guide button matching my joystick movements ^^v
And a n00b question: if I install the Neutrik jack, could I just use a USB to RJ45 cable and remove the stock USB cable altogether?
I worked with my first TE Kitty mod on a local’s 360 TE. This thing is soooo easy, it felt strange doing a dual mod without heating up the soldering iron and checking my work with a multimeter.
So simple, I’ll do 360 TE/TE Kitty mods for free, minus cost of pcb/shipping for my locals!
You could, yes. I never would, since I like the cables that come with the sticks, but it’s certainly an option; PS3, Xbox360, PC, all work through the RJ-45 jack as well as through the built in USB cable.
Kitty board is good. It might help to make the text saying to measure twice and cut once larger lol, ALMOST had some clearance issues with the joystick and cable.
Has anyone had any success with using the TE/Kitty in any of it’s modes on OS X?
How does switching system works? Is there an autodetect like the te-easystrike? Or you got to hold a button down like the paewang? I’m interested in the vlx kitty
I received my TEKitty earlier. I am thoroughly impressed.I thought it was going to be much harder since I had never done anything like this before. I was surprised at how easy it was. Not I just need to order parts for the adapters (which by the way, do you have a favorite place to order the wires/RJ-45 jack from or a retail chain that you know that sells them?). I will certainly spread the word on how great this thing is. Hopefully some of our locals in Florence SC will order some for their sticks. Personally, I will probably order another one as soon as I can get more funds.
I dont know of any place that sells both extension cords and RJ-45 crimping parts. monoprice.com has a bunch of stuff though, including crimping ends and boots. Extension cords are all over the place on ebay, or the cord from any dead controller can be used.
Installed my first Kitty TE for a friend of mine last night. Very impressed with the built-in testing features, the button test reminded me of Kit from Knight Rider.
One thing you could add to the RJ45 guide at the end is telling people to remove the two ‘back’ button QD cables completely as they’re no longer needed.
I should also take a moment to thank strogg and threi. Strogg was the first one to suggest rewiring back to turbo on rj-45 TE mods; I added a diode so turbo will activate back but back wont activate turbo, but the idea of wiring it to that button at all was first suggested by him.
Threi made the silly mistake of asking how to wire the turbo panel LEDs to light on press on an SE stick of his, at the exact moment I was laying out the boards. If he hadn’t have asked that question for modding his stick, I wouldn’t have realized how easy it would be to add it to the TE Kitty. As far as I’m concerned, the resistors and diodes on the bottom of the TE Kitty are the ‘threi zone’
EDIT: Also, the TE-S harness prototypes arrived. I made a mistake in them, but one I could fix for testing, and now the technical drawing is fixed and I’m going to order a batch of them. It looks like they’ll be about $5, but please dont hold me to it. But, they work fine, not difficult to install as long as you follow the directions; it’s easy to plug the wrong end of a cable somewhere if you’re not careful. I’ll post up as soon as they arrive and are ready to sell.
Are the Kitty’s available now through you, Toodles?
I haven’t seen them at LizardLick.
It does seem like IF you get a Madcatz TE (360) that this is probably the better board to get IF you want full-360 compatibility or want to retain all the button functions (Turbo, Home, lock features, analog stick function) WITHOUT swapping someone for a PS3 TE board (which would be cheaper but only happens infrequently).
I’ve had my eye on getting an Asian 360 TE for a while… this might get me to jump on it!
P.S. – I think the MC Cthulu is definitely better for people who aren’t thinking to have a 360 option in the future but I have to admit the hardest thing to do with the MC Cthulu is soldering the Ethernet wiring into those small post holes. I haven’t ruined an MC Cthulu yet (on two stick mods with that PCB) but had to redo the soldering on my last custom mod because of an electrical situation with overlapping solder. Problem was fixed and the MC Cthulu is fine but it does demonstrate the big physical problem with the MC which is a very small board. I know it’s a matter of cost to add an RJ-45 jack area to a board but I think it’s much appreciated by anyone who’s not an electrician by trade and has to solder connector cables to small spots on PCB’s.
Once I read the documentation for the TEKitty I realized this was probably a better fit for my possible, future needs than the TEAsy. $20 gets you a lot more future flexibility with the former board! I’ve got the system cords already… J:)
I dont understand where you got this $20 number from. They cost the same. TEasy is a bit easier to install, Kitty support more consoles and the cheap LED tricks. If someone wants to mod a TE and doesnt care about RJ-45 or the LED tricks, they should get a TEasy.
I was under the impression TEasy Strike was cheaper. Sorry, forgot that bit of info…
Came back mainly to ask a technical question.
Would it be possible to retain the 24mm Select Button and instead drill another hole for the RJ-45 Feedthrough Jack?
I ask this as someone who doesn’t like the idea of putting the Jack on the exterior of the case. I figure it’s easy enough just to put a new hole in the compartment case for an RJ-45 feedthrough (I never store my cable for my PS3 TE’s in that compartment anyway).
I’m well aware of the necessity of possibly having to do some cutting in the middle plastic area of the TE to fit the RJ-45 feedthrough properly in there. I’ve just never liked how it looks when the RJ-45 feedthrough goes into the Select button area. I’ve seen other mods done like that… not my cup of tea.
These should work with the Blazblue stick, right? I have one waiting for this, so would you mind PMing me when they’re ready, in case I forget to check this thread? I’d like to buy it as soon as possible.
Mad Catz has only produced 2 batches of PCBs for its TE sticks.
Round 1 and 2, Marvel Vs Capcom 2 and 3, Femme Fatale, San Diego Comic Con 2008 all have the "original PCB."
The others have the revised PCB… There’s a whole thread about the TE joystick differences you can look up.
Minor differences, but it’s all been hashed out about what has which generation of PCB.